Hello,
I recall reading that panzer crews, prior to leaving their disabled vehicles, were instructed to sabotage the gun. One way was by draining hydraulic (?) fluid, and when the gun is fired, it would be in full recoil and rendered unusable.
Would this true for a Panther, say late in the war?
And if so, how much of the barrel would be left visible, at 1:35 scale? TIA
Cheers,
Tat
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Q: Gun barrel recoil
Posted: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 - 01:38 PM UTC
Headhunter506
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Posted: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 - 05:42 PM UTC
Early, mid or late war, it was SOP when the crew had the opportunity to do so. Most of the barrel would be still visible if it was rendered inoperative/out of battery by draining the hydraulic fluid prior to firing the disabling round. It would travel to its rearmost recoil position and remain there. All tanks were also equipped with demo charges which would've taken care of destroying, among other things, the gun.
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Posted: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 03:32 AM UTC
Hi Tat,
this is still SOP today. With the oil drained from the
recuperators, when the gun is fired it would even brake
the weld to the mantlet cover. So in other words you could
move the gun further back than the actual recoil distance or, even have slanted gun.
What you need to know is how far did the Panther gun recoil,
of which I can´t tell you, sorry.
Paul
this is still SOP today. With the oil drained from the
recuperators, when the gun is fired it would even brake
the weld to the mantlet cover. So in other words you could
move the gun further back than the actual recoil distance or, even have slanted gun.
What you need to know is how far did the Panther gun recoil,
of which I can´t tell you, sorry.
Paul
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Posted: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 03:48 AM UTC
Just checked my references and found that the recoil is between 400 and 430mm
Hope that helps
Paul
Hope that helps
Paul
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Posted: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 04:39 AM UTC
One thing to remember is the recoil system is spring operated, hydraulic assisted, the spring or springs do all the work the hydraulics do nothing more than prevent the harsh and sharp metal on metal contact that occurs during firing and recoil, it acts as a dampener so to speak. With that in mind it would take more than one round to take the gun out of battery which is what would eventually occur and coming out of battery is far more dramatic than going to full recoil and staying there coming out of battery would result in the gun braking out its mount and slam into the rear wall or in the case of the panther the shell catch basket which will promptly break and any crew member in the turret will quickly wish he wasn't. if you just drained the fluid and fire the gun just once it would fail to return completely to battery which is different and may not even be noticed by the crew but would effect accuracy and i certainly would not fire anther round as its only a matter of rounds before the gun breaks from its mount. knowing this, it leads me to believe when we see guns out of battery or in full recoil something else was done namely with the spring or the actuator rods. Not saying German crews were not instructed to drain the fluid and fire a round in the direction of the enemy but in reality all it dose is sabotage the gun for the next owner, a far easier solution is to remove the firing pin
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Posted: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 04:53 AM UTC
Hello Bill,
I´m not too sure about the the Panther recoil, but that of the Chieftain is definatly not spring assisted. Our SOP
was to drain the fluid, elevate the gun so that it aligns with the turret traverse ring and fire. This would tear the 120mm from it´s anchoring points and also deform the travers ring.
Do you guys have a spring operated, and oil supported recoil
system?
Paul
I´m not too sure about the the Panther recoil, but that of the Chieftain is definatly not spring assisted. Our SOP
was to drain the fluid, elevate the gun so that it aligns with the turret traverse ring and fire. This would tear the 120mm from it´s anchoring points and also deform the travers ring.
Do you guys have a spring operated, and oil supported recoil
system?
Paul
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Posted: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 05:11 AM UTC
absolutely, we use what is referred as a concentric hydro-spring recoil system same concept for most guns but you are correct Chieftains i believe, the recoil system is based off compressed air and again hydraulics acting as a dampener so i believe to knock the gun out of battery wouldn't you also need to relieve the air pressure maybe draining the fluid also some how relieves the air pressure or the last round forces it all out most likely, but remember you Brits lead the way in tank development and the hydro-pneumatic recoil system being one of them.
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Posted: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 05:14 AM UTC
Quoted Text
absolutely, we use what is referred as a concentric hydro-spring recoil system same concept for most guns but you are correct Chieftains i believe, the recoil system is based off compressed air and again hydraulics acting as a dampener so i believe to knock the gun out of battery wouldn't you also need to relieve the air pressure maybe draining the fluid also some how relieves the air pressure or the last round forces it all out most likely, but remember you Brits lead the way in tank development and the hydro-pneumatic recoil system being one of them.
Damper, not dampener. A bit of a pet peeve of mine.
Something that resists flow/movement/energy transfer is a damper.
Something that makes something moist is a dampener.
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Posted: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 05:49 AM UTC
Quoted Text
One thing to remember is the recoil system is spring operated, hydraulic assisted, the spring or springs do all the work the hydraulics do nothing more than prevent the harsh and sharp metal on metal contact that occurs during firing and recoil, it acts as a dampener so to speak. With that in mind it would take more than one round to take the gun out of battery which is what would eventually occur and coming out of battery is far more dramatic than going to full recoil and staying there coming out of battery would result in the gun braking out its mount and slam into the rear wall or in the case of the panther the shell catch basket which will promptly break and any crew member in the turret will quickly wish he wasn't. if you just drained the fluid and fire the gun just once it would fail to return completely to battery which is different and may not even be noticed by the crew but would effect accuracy and i certainly would not fire anther round as its only a matter of rounds before the gun breaks from its mount. knowing this, it leads me to believe when we see guns out of battery or in full recoil something else was done namely with the spring or the actuator rods. Not saying German crews were not instructed to drain the fluid and fire a round in the direction of the enemy but in reality all it dose is sabotage the gun for the next owner, a far easier solution is to remove the firing pin
The recoil system of an Abrams might be spring operated; that wasn't the case with WW II-era German guns. The recoil mechanism of all German tank guns was 100% hydraulically operated. The Panther, and other German tanks like the Tiger I and II, etc., used an electrical firing system; so, removing the firing pin wasn't an option. The image* below is a cutaway drawing of a recuperator for a KwK 43/L71, the main gun used in King Tigers and Jagdpanthers:
As you can see, this was operated solely by hydraulics. One round was sufficient to knock the gun tube out of battery and disable it once the hydraulic fluid was drained from both recuperators.
To answer Tat's question about how much of the barrel would be visible, Paul wrote that the recoil distance for a KwK 42/L70 was between 400-430mm. All you need to do is subtract the higher figure from the length of the Panther barrel, measured from the tip of the muzzle brake (HAH! I didn't use the word "break". I only look like a moron ) to where it meets the mantlet and you'll have a pretty accurate answer. All you'd need to do is hack off the appropriate amount from the barrel nearest the mantlet.
*The image, by the way, is from Rob Veenendaal's excellent [Panzer Basics website.
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Posted: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 05:53 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Damper, not dampener. A bit of a pet peeve of mine.
Something that resists flow/movement/energy transfer is a damper.
Something that makes something moist is a dampener.
I hear ya. The same with "break" for "brake", "their" for "there", "your" for "you're" and countless others. Nobody talks (writes, as is the case) Ingrish so good no more.
Posted: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 11:31 AM UTC
You may also add "loose" for "lose"...
Seriously, thanks for all the responses guys, I learned a lot more than what I asked for.
Now for the math part
430mm at 1/35 scale works out to be 12.29mm or 1.23cm. Do I understand it correctly that this is the length that I need to take off at that scale? Or would there be any considerations I need to be aware of? And Paul, by "slanted" you meant, "elevated"?
Cheers,
Tat
Seriously, thanks for all the responses guys, I learned a lot more than what I asked for.
Now for the math part
430mm at 1/35 scale works out to be 12.29mm or 1.23cm. Do I understand it correctly that this is the length that I need to take off at that scale? Or would there be any considerations I need to be aware of? And Paul, by "slanted" you meant, "elevated"?
Cheers,
Tat
Headhunter506
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Posted: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 12:17 PM UTC
Quoted Text
You may also add "loose" for "lose"...
Seriously, thanks for all the responses guys, I learned a lot more than what I asked for.
Now for the math part
430mm at 1/35 scale works out to be 12.29mm or 1.23cm. Do I understand it correctly that this is the length that I need to take off at that scale? Or would there be any considerations I need to be aware of? And Paul, by "slanted" you meant, "elevated"?
Cheers,
Tat
You got it, Tat. Measure off 1.23cm from where the barrel is connected to the mantlet and cut that amount off. All you would need to do then is to clean up the cut end and insert it into the mantlet.
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Posted: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 12:17 PM UTC
Quoted Text
You may also add "loose" for "lose"...
Seriously, thanks for all the responses guys, I learned a lot more than what I asked for.
Now for the math part
430mm at 1/35 scale works out to be 12.29mm or 1.23cm. Do I understand it correctly that this is the length that I need to take off at that scale? Or would there be any considerations I need to be aware of? And Paul, by "slanted" you meant, "elevated"?
Cheers,
Tat
Yes, take 1.29 cm off the length of the barrel, from the inside.
By 'slanted', I believe that the gun is basically off it's rails, so it can be at a number of various angles that you wouldn't see otherwise.
Posted: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 12:54 PM UTC
Again, my thanks for the quick replies!
Now I'd need to do some actual measurements -- as I plan to have this as subject for the upcoming Postcard Challenge campaign.
If I can make it work within the base dimensions specified by the rules and regs, then its good to go! Nevertheless, I can still use the info for other projects in mind.
Cheers,
Tat
Now I'd need to do some actual measurements -- as I plan to have this as subject for the upcoming Postcard Challenge campaign.
If I can make it work within the base dimensions specified by the rules and regs, then its good to go! Nevertheless, I can still use the info for other projects in mind.
Cheers,
Tat
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Posted: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 11:22 PM UTC
you could also do the muzzle end peeled back like a banana, but then you'd 'have' to do the rifling...
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Posted: Thursday, March 28, 2013 - 05:48 AM UTC
Quoted Text
By 'slanted', I believe that the gun is basically off it's rails, so it can be at a number of various angles that you wouldn't see otherwise.
That is what I meant, now I´m going "break" open a crate
of beer as I do not have to work tomorrow.
Paul
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Posted: Thursday, March 28, 2013 - 06:51 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text
By 'slanted', I believe that the gun is basically off it's rails, so it can be at a number of various angles that you wouldn't see otherwise.
That is what I meant, now I´m going "break" open a crate
of beer as I do not have to work tomorrow.
Paul
Enjoy you're beer brake. Isle supposably due the same later.
Posted: Thursday, March 28, 2013 - 11:00 AM UTC
Quoted Text
you could also do the muzzle end peeled back like a banana...
Yeah, that's an option just so to make it work within the base, or probably a broken barrel. I recall seeing a pic where the barrel had a hole punched midway its length...
Well the long, quiet weekend started yesterday, in observance of Lent. It's quite a nice "brake" away from hectic schedules and the sort. Time for reflection, family, and course, this thing of ours
Happy Easter folks!
Cheers,
Tat
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Posted: Thursday, March 28, 2013 - 12:04 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Time for reflection, family, and course, this thing of ours
Cue the theme from the Godfather:
1721Lancers
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Posted: Thursday, March 28, 2013 - 08:35 PM UTC
Quoted Text
"Isle supposably due"