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Armor/AFV: Braille Scale
1/72 and 1/76 Scale Armor and AFVs.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Hasegawa Humber Mk II
weathering_one
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: April 04, 2009
KitMaker: 458 posts
Armorama: 456 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 30, 2013 - 06:21 AM UTC
Hi everyone! It's been a while since I've actually posted anything in this forum or participated much so I decided to join the Jurassic Campaign and see about getting a moldy goldy (or two) built and also post my progress in this forum. After looking at what was around collecting dust I picked this one:





It's pretty ancient and a bit soft on details compared to newer kits but I wanted something to experiment my painting skills on. Here's the sprues minus a couple of parts that broke off and are still in the bag.





Here's the lover hull pieces together and the fit was unexpectedly quite good.



I decided to spiff it up a bit so I drilled out the lumps of plastic that are supposed to be lift rings and cut out the little vision slots for the drivers area.







While trying to enlarge the hole in the lifting rings, one snapped and broke. I figured that I'd drill some holes for some brass wire versions after taking off the moulded on clumps. It went pretty good and I think the new ones look much better.





Regards,
AJ
tread_geek
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 23, 2008
KitMaker: 2,847 posts
Armorama: 2,667 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 31, 2013 - 06:09 AM UTC
AJ,

Very nice to see you sharing a build with the community. I've never built one of these but I did do the Matchbox offering zillions of years ago. This kit looks pretty simple yet with all the stowage on it, it might be a great subject for experimenting with finishing. The new lifting eyes look good and cutting out the drivers slits was a nice touch. What paint scheme options does the kit suggest?

Cheers,
Jan
PanzerAlexander
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Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: February 17, 2010
KitMaker: 625 posts
Armorama: 608 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 31, 2013 - 08:16 AM UTC
AJ,

Good luck with this old kit.

P.A.
erhntly
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Izmir, Turkey / Türkçe
Joined: June 11, 2004
KitMaker: 1,426 posts
Armorama: 464 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 07, 2013 - 10:15 PM UTC

Quoted Text

AJ,

Good luck with this old kit.

P.A.



Very old kit I'm waiting for completed model
Cheers..
weathering_one
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: April 04, 2009
KitMaker: 458 posts
Armorama: 456 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 24, 2013 - 08:51 AM UTC
Daily life drudgery has interfered with hobby time and progress on this kit. I finally found some time and made a bit of progress. The turret is well along and I've worked a bit on the lower body including adding some lifting eyes made from brass wire to the rear engine area. Fit is mostly pretty good except for a gap in the right side that still needs to be filled a bit more.

Thanks for the encouragement guys and Jan, the colour options are either all light tan or light tan with black splotches. At this point I am leaning toward the light tan. Here's where it is at the moment.







I may have to fill in the slots by the drivers area as I can't seem to get them square and they've grown a little large. At this point I doubt I'll make the campaign deadline but I'll still continue the Blog of this thing.

Regards,
AJ
firstcircle
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: November 19, 2008
KitMaker: 2,249 posts
Armorama: 2,007 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 25, 2013 - 10:54 AM UTC
Moldy goldy... that's still making me laugh...
See this kit seems to hsve that kind of translucent look round the edges of the parts, remember that on my Has. Matilda. I think the plastic is quite brittle, maybe why the eyes snapped - but, yes the new ones do look much better.

Looking forward to more of this old mould gold.
Braille
#135
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California, United States
Joined: August 05, 2007
KitMaker: 1,501 posts
Armorama: 1,485 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 05, 2013 - 01:04 PM UTC
@weathing_one – AJ,

Seeing this kit grace this forum put a big smile on my face! I happen to have two of these in the stash, bought them a long time ago, back when only a handful of manufactures were producing 72 kits. You know I recently put together the Matchbox version of this kit right here on Jan’s Matchbox Campaign and I thought that the details were rather soft but once the paint was applied all of that went away and it turned out nice, I had expected the details to go away under the paint but, Noooo!

I’m going to be stopping by to check on your progress. Seeing you put together yours gives me an itching to break one of mine out and put it together too. But I have a ways to go in our new place, one room at a time, before I can start modeling again so I’m going to enjoy seeing yours come together. I think the one color paint scheme will be fine as the kit is supplied with an assortment of stowage that along with the tires, main gun and decals will greatly aid in sprinkling in some extra coloring.

AJ, I agree with you in that these ‘oldie-moldy by-golly goldy but goodie’ kits are excellent for trying out new painting techniques on and to sharpen up the building skills too. On top of that they are relatively inexpensive and not hard to find. Listen, when I drill holes for adding metal loops and handles on a kit I run a small paint brush dampened in liquid cement over the plastic fuzzies after installing the wire loops or handles to blend the surrounding plastic together with the loops or handles effectively sealing off the hole, just a suggestion!

Too reseal the side view slits I would fill them in with super glue. Add accelerator to the glue once you’ve added the glue to the sides. After the glue sets up, within a few minutes, cut the protruding portions of the glue as flush to the sides as possible and wet sand until its flush against the plastic. Either use a needle attached to a pin vise or scribing tool and using a small piece of tape as a guide ( I use pin stripping tape) scribe in the slit. Carefully sand down the raised plastic from scribing and go over the area with a used piece of Scotch-Brite scouring pad to remove the fuzzies, any left over fuzzies can be dealt with using the small paint brush dampened in liquid cement. You can then polish the area, after the glue has dried, with #0000 steel wool.

Now let’s get on it AJ!
~ Eddy
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