I'm converting this kit to the earlier version. Everything is done except the engine deck has been a frustration as it's not coming out like I want it to. The last attempt had me cut the grate holes as the appropriate size rectangles and then add in the bars, fill and sand the ends and that's that. Sat back and did not like the results. the bars are hard to get set correctly and evenly. And no one that I've found makes and aftermarket deck conversion to the earlier version of this vehicle.
I want to build this:
Early Elefant Engine Deck
Any thoughts or ideas on how to do this would be greatly appreciated. Everything else is period correct so far but this detail.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Italeri German Elefant - Early Engine Deck
tominizer
Ontario, Canada
Joined: September 26, 2006
KitMaker: 210 posts
Armorama: 81 posts
Joined: September 26, 2006
KitMaker: 210 posts
Armorama: 81 posts
Posted: Monday, April 01, 2013 - 11:43 AM UTC
firstcircle
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: November 19, 2008
KitMaker: 2,249 posts
Armorama: 2,007 posts
Joined: November 19, 2008
KitMaker: 2,249 posts
Armorama: 2,007 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 03, 2013 - 11:55 PM UTC
Tom,
It looks pretty small to get it accurate using such methods... though there's always trying again! How many of these things do you need? Two, four? It sounds like you started with the slots then tried to get the rounded ends, maybe it's better to drill holes at each end of each slot first, then cut beteween them. That way you're using something consistent, the drill bit, to achieve the holes which will then act as the guide for the cutting. If you need more than one identical piece you could clamp them together while the holes are drilled, so at least they'll all be in the same place on each piece.
Alternatively, have you thought about making your own photo etched parts? If you have good access to a laser printer (black and white will do) and a shop that sells hobby electronics materials, it's in fact not that hard. You don't need tanks and aeration systems, just some zip lock bags, an incandescent lamp to provide some heat, and a paint roller. Advantage is that if you can draw the piece you want on a computer (using Word will do probably) then you can reproduce it several times exactly and you can achieve something quite intricate. I assume you're not trying to achieve that angle on the slots? Just the slots!?
The only issue you might have is that you want the holes to go right through the piece, which is harder to achieve as you need to be able to transfer your design to either side of the metal sheet - but that is possible.
Let me know if you want any more info on that and I'll give a bit more time to the reply.
Matthew
It looks pretty small to get it accurate using such methods... though there's always trying again! How many of these things do you need? Two, four? It sounds like you started with the slots then tried to get the rounded ends, maybe it's better to drill holes at each end of each slot first, then cut beteween them. That way you're using something consistent, the drill bit, to achieve the holes which will then act as the guide for the cutting. If you need more than one identical piece you could clamp them together while the holes are drilled, so at least they'll all be in the same place on each piece.
Alternatively, have you thought about making your own photo etched parts? If you have good access to a laser printer (black and white will do) and a shop that sells hobby electronics materials, it's in fact not that hard. You don't need tanks and aeration systems, just some zip lock bags, an incandescent lamp to provide some heat, and a paint roller. Advantage is that if you can draw the piece you want on a computer (using Word will do probably) then you can reproduce it several times exactly and you can achieve something quite intricate. I assume you're not trying to achieve that angle on the slots? Just the slots!?
The only issue you might have is that you want the holes to go right through the piece, which is harder to achieve as you need to be able to transfer your design to either side of the metal sheet - but that is possible.
Let me know if you want any more info on that and I'll give a bit more time to the reply.
Matthew
Jagdtiger46
Missouri, United States
Joined: October 26, 2011
KitMaker: 291 posts
Armorama: 256 posts
Joined: October 26, 2011
KitMaker: 291 posts
Armorama: 256 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 04, 2013 - 03:12 AM UTC
You might try casting some grates from a similarly configured kit, and then grafting them in place.
Posted: Thursday, April 04, 2013 - 08:55 AM UTC
The other option, if you have CAD skills, is to design the part and print it at Shapeways in resin.
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 04, 2013 - 09:06 AM UTC
I agree with Matthew. You should start by drilling the holes, at either end. Then, make the straight cuts to remove the styrene. This, as far I as can tell, would be the easiest way to achieve the desired result. Just IMHO.
Posted: Friday, April 05, 2013 - 07:24 AM UTC
Bear in mind those slots are not vertical - they angle inwards toward the centreline of the tank. Looks like maybe a 30-degree angle?
[Edit: There is a missing cover of some sort, as evidenced by the empty bolt holes in the corners. Could this give a way of hiding the slots? That's what the later deck in the Italeri kit represents, but with any screening long gone before they measured the APG example for the kit in the late 70s/early 80s...]
[Edit: There is a missing cover of some sort, as evidenced by the empty bolt holes in the corners. Could this give a way of hiding the slots? That's what the later deck in the Italeri kit represents, but with any screening long gone before they measured the APG example for the kit in the late 70s/early 80s...]