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Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Weighting down a model
kglack43
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Alabama, United States
Joined: September 18, 2003
KitMaker: 842 posts
Armorama: 607 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2003 - 03:23 AM UTC
Is it just me? Or, does anyone else like the feel of a vehicle that has some weight to it. I have been using lead fishing weights and some sheet lead to line the inner, un-seen parts of my vehicles. I like to handle my tanks/trucks, turn them all around and look at every angle and ask that others feel free to pick em' up and check them out. The weight seems to add to the volume of the kit in another way.

What's your take?

kglack
shonen_red
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Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
Armorama: 2,283 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2003 - 03:32 AM UTC
Weighting them makes a kit heavier and a little realistic. However, if that weight becomes loose, you'll have a noisy can instead of a beutiful model. Better make even the weights on the model. This will distribute the weight all thoughout the model and handlers will feel it's not like any other model!
APbullet
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Utrecht, Netherlands
Joined: October 21, 2003
KitMaker: 236 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2003 - 03:34 AM UTC
Hell yeah,

i once build a MLRS and in the rocket house i placed several empty paint bottles. When you picked up the vehicle, it was as if your holding a real armor piece in your hand. So yes, i feel the need for weight.
Grumpyoldman
Staff MemberConsigliere
KITMAKER NETWORK
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Florida, United States
Joined: October 17, 2003
KitMaker: 15,338 posts
Armorama: 7,297 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2003 - 03:44 AM UTC
LOL I though I was the only one who added a little weight.
I use lead shot.
I mix up a batch of epoxy, thin it a little with lacquor thinner and pour it over the shot.
Just don't get carried away with the weigth, you might snap off a few axles or wheels.
PorkChop
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: September 11, 2002
KitMaker: 3,179 posts
Armorama: 1 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2003 - 04:10 AM UTC
In the past I have used rolls of pennies glued inside the hull.
sphyrna
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New York, United States
Joined: September 24, 2002
KitMaker: 379 posts
Armorama: 150 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2003 - 04:42 AM UTC
Yup, me too!

I like the feel of a 'heavy' model. I've used fishing sinkers and pennies in the past.
On my workbench now is an M-48 - I've filled the lower chassis of the M-48 with plaster (with pennies mixed in) to add weight to it. Very hefty.
One question- if a real Jagdtiger weighs 70 tons, how come my 1/35 Jagdtiger doesn't weigh 2 tons ? - even with the fishing sinkers added?
I plan on using plaster from now on, maybe mixing in some fishing sinkers or a roll of pennies.


Peter
kglack43
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Alabama, United States
Joined: September 18, 2003
KitMaker: 842 posts
Armorama: 607 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2003 - 04:50 AM UTC
Plaster is a great idea...it will keep the weights from breaking loose and banging around inside the kit. Wow thanks for that one. Maybe a a type that wont dryout and become brittle.

Again thanks to all.

kglack
Jurgen
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Limburg, Belgium
Joined: October 29, 2003
KitMaker: 651 posts
Armorama: 510 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2003 - 05:39 AM UTC

Quoted Text

One question- if a real Jagdtiger weighs 70 tons, how come my 1/35 Jagdtiger doesn't weigh 2 tons ?


Thank god for that... finishing my 69 ton M1A1 would be kind a hard....
sgirty
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Ohio, United States
Joined: February 12, 2003
KitMaker: 1,315 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2003 - 05:47 AM UTC
Hi. Here lately I've been gluing in some of the left-over plastic spure that the parts are molded on. Just cut them up and put them inside and glue them down where they come into contact with the hull or each other. This adds some 'weight' to the finished piece so it's not quite a light as it would be if I didn't use anything inside at all. But be careful where you put the glue and how much of it you use, as it can, on occasion, eat through or deform the surface underneath and show through to the outside.

Take care, sgirty
SEDimmick
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: March 15, 2002
KitMaker: 1,745 posts
Armorama: 1,483 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2003 - 05:54 AM UTC
Using aftermarket Fruli tracks is another way to add weight to a model #:-)
tazz
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New York, United States
Joined: July 21, 2002
KitMaker: 1,462 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2003 - 06:06 AM UTC
wow this is a good idea for some of u to do this.
but i would never add Weight to my tanks.
may i would if i put it on a dio or something
KiwiDave
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Wellington, New Zealand
Joined: January 14, 2003
KitMaker: 248 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2003 - 06:20 AM UTC
As part of my bugdet approach to modelling I use auto wheel balancing weights that I pick up on my walks!

I cut the steel clip out and the flattish cross section of the lead gives a good surface area for glueing. I put four pieces in a tank, one across the front and the rear where the hull bottom joins the end plate and one down each side about the centre.

Main reason for doing this is to ensure the vinyl tracks are compressed, but it certainly makes the model feel better as well.

Regards Dave
kglack43
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Alabama, United States
Joined: September 18, 2003
KitMaker: 842 posts
Armorama: 607 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2003 - 06:38 AM UTC
Did i mention that i also add weight to the turrets? Really adds to the feel of the overal kit.

Spent tire weights found on the road...huh...now thats a good one.

kglack
kkeefe
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,416 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2003 - 07:20 AM UTC
Hummm.... I've never had the desire to weigh my AFV's etc down. I make sure that the tracks etc are flat and glue them into place with some white glue. All my stuff goes on bases and the Pine or Oak adds enough weight to make the whole presentation a tad more stable. Certainly keeps anyone from fingering the model to pick it up (Stay home, it's much safer!). If you're looking to bust me about the underside, bring along your dental mirror and pen light.
BroAbrams
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Washington, United States
Joined: October 02, 2002
KitMaker: 1,546 posts
Armorama: 1,081 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2003 - 08:42 AM UTC
When I did AFC CLubs M88 I added some pennies in the back because I was going to put weight on the boom, and I noticed how it felt better to pick up a model of substance. It is odd that I was thinking about this last igth while I was working on the Abrams (Yes I actually do that now and then) and noticed that all the cratchbuilding I am doing is adding a lot more weight and making it feel very substantial. I can't exactly add weight to it, but with all the stuff I will put in/on it, I don't think I will need to.

Rob
leo1vtanker
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Limburg, Netherlands
Joined: December 20, 2002
KitMaker: 71 posts
Armorama: 42 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2003 - 09:24 AM UTC
I've had to use lead once for my M88 ARV which has an M48 diesel engine hanging from the boom. The heavy weight of the resin engine kept the model falling over so the only solution was to insert thick layers of lead foil in the back of the model to act as a counterweight.
For the rest I like the rather heavy feeling of my complete resin models because of the added weight of the resin. Friul tracks create the same feeling as well.

Regards,
Marcel Jussen
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