All, I am going to give figure work a go to see if this is something I can get to add to dioramas. to start with, I got the ICM kit "Tank Crew at Rest" (the one with the photographer) as I thought of r of uwith my Pz1a taking a snap of his colleagues
so far just tidied the parts up as best i can... but som introductory shots
I have a couple of small holes (assume air bubbles) to fill but so far he has cleaned up nicely...
so a question - for anti-aircraft crew (Pz1a flak panzer) would this be same uniform as normal tankers (so black uniform, grey shirt)?
any guidance, comments, critique (not too harsh, first figure and all that) much appreciated
Figures
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
1:35 ICM Tank Crew At Rest (Photographer)
robw_uk
England - North East, United Kingdom
Joined: June 22, 2010
KitMaker: 1,224 posts
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Joined: June 22, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 - 10:20 PM UTC
Biggles2
Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
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Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 - 02:55 AM UTC
The moulded detail looks a little soft. You may consider taking a pointy blade and slightly under-cutting the collars, belts and straps, pocket flaps, etc. If you can afford it you could replace the heads with Hornet or Alpine. That will also make a big improvement. If you have any Dragon Gen ll German equipment to replace the original items, that will also make a big difference.
robw_uk
England - North East, United Kingdom
Joined: June 22, 2010
KitMaker: 1,224 posts
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Joined: June 22, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 - 03:01 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The moulded detail looks a little soft. You may consider taking a pointy blade and slightly under-cutting the collars, belts and straps, pocket flaps, etc. If you can afford it you could replace the heads with Hornet or Alpine. That will also make a big improvement. If you have any Dragon Gen ll German equipment to replace the original items, that will also make a big difference.
thanks on the under-cutting... as my first attempt i will go with "what is" probably, then if i find myself liking figures will start to build up on better quality features. the first bloke only has a camera anyway.....
robw_uk
England - North East, United Kingdom
Joined: June 22, 2010
KitMaker: 1,224 posts
Armorama: 1,207 posts
Joined: June 22, 2010
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Posted: Thursday, May 23, 2013 - 08:18 PM UTC
ok - a little progress... well in figure terms a fair amount. he has no gear to add so ready to be painted...
ONE question this time - the 2 "dimples" in his groin, I am thinking they are too deep and "obvious" - should I fill them a little?
(also noticed in the last photo a seam to be adjusted round his arm)
ONE question this time - the 2 "dimples" in his groin, I am thinking they are too deep and "obvious" - should I fill them a little?
(also noticed in the last photo a seam to be adjusted round his arm)
robw_uk
England - North East, United Kingdom
Joined: June 22, 2010
KitMaker: 1,224 posts
Armorama: 1,207 posts
Joined: June 22, 2010
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Armorama: 1,207 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 30, 2013 - 02:16 AM UTC
ok - started painting... for the trousers I went for a mixture of black and black grey (from Vallejo), for the shirt "mid grey" and white (also Vallejo...
I started to look at shading last night 9maybe it was the light) but cant seem to get to a position where it is subtle but shaded (so far I seem to have "subtle"
should i be looking at pure black for my shadows (at some point - not just BLACK and GREY... i think I am just not going too much towards balck...
argh this post is confusing - but pictures come out and it looks like a guy standing in a light source and having shadows - rather than "look, Rob has deliberately pointed a shadow and highlight"... Iw ill try to get piccies up but, if i went for black trousers any tips?
I started to look at shading last night 9maybe it was the light) but cant seem to get to a position where it is subtle but shaded (so far I seem to have "subtle"
should i be looking at pure black for my shadows (at some point - not just BLACK and GREY... i think I am just not going too much towards balck...
argh this post is confusing - but pictures come out and it looks like a guy standing in a light source and having shadows - rather than "look, Rob has deliberately pointed a shadow and highlight"... Iw ill try to get piccies up but, if i went for black trousers any tips?
Biggles2
Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 30, 2013 - 03:19 AM UTC
When painting black clothing, start with dark gray or charcoal as a base color. Then you can shade with black.
robw_uk
England - North East, United Kingdom
Joined: June 22, 2010
KitMaker: 1,224 posts
Armorama: 1,207 posts
Joined: June 22, 2010
KitMaker: 1,224 posts
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Posted: Thursday, May 30, 2013 - 08:06 PM UTC
Quoted Text
When painting black clothing, start with dark gray or charcoal as a base color. Then you can shade with black.
yeah started with black-grey base... but still... i know one problem - I am not accurate/neat enough with highlight/shading... need more pointier brushes...
any way, this is where I am at the moment.... (whats the best way to strip Vallejo paint?)
Biggles2
Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Friday, May 31, 2013 - 03:33 AM UTC
Your figure looks pretty good, but you were a little messy with undercutting. Instead of cutting straight into the surface, try aiming the tip of the blade upward and under the edge you are undercutting. Use a SHARP pointy blade and don't use too much pressure. A few passes will result in a neater job. As,it is you have some point slips and burred edges. Before going any further I would suggest using a small hobby file or sandpaper and de-burring the rough edges of your work, otherwise they will really stand out after drybrushing. As for paint stripping, Windex works great on Tamiya paint, but Vallejo probably requires some elbow grease (and Windex) with an old toothbrush.
robw_uk
England - North East, United Kingdom
Joined: June 22, 2010
KitMaker: 1,224 posts
Armorama: 1,207 posts
Joined: June 22, 2010
KitMaker: 1,224 posts
Armorama: 1,207 posts
Posted: Friday, May 31, 2013 - 04:48 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Your figure looks pretty good, but you were a little messy with undercutting. Instead of cutting straight into the surface, try aiming the tip of the blade upward and under the edge you are undercutting. Use a SHARP pointy blade and don't use too much pressure. A few passes will result in a neater job. As,it is you have some point slips and burred edges. Before going any further I would suggest using a small hobby file or sandpaper and de-burring the rough edges of your work, otherwise they will really stand out after drybrushing. As for paint stripping, Windex works great on Tamiya paint, but Vallejo probably requires some elbow grease (and Windex) with an old toothbrush.
yeah I noticed that too when I looked at the pics - off to get some better brushes and flesh colours tomorrow, will look for a small file too - all I have at the moment are larger sanding sticks.....
i was going to us this figure but, at the knock down price i paid, will use the full box for practice and then look at tank riders for my STuG