and feel it was not an "unbiassed" review so here is mine.
Well I got my hands on this.
Dragon Ersatz M10 #7491 Armor Pro Kit
This is a "Much Anticipated" kit,
many of us out there have been waiting with Baited Breath for this one.
Before I get into the Pros and Cons, I'll cover what comes in the box.
Here we go.....
The Box Art shows a very nicely detailed picture of what the model should look like.
I feel this is them just "transfering" the art from the 1/35 scale kit to the 1/72 box.

Here are the Instructions, the fact that aren't even two full pages,
should give you a clue as to how "simplified" this kit is.



This sprue I believe shows parts that are common from one Panther kit to another.
So this leaves you (the builder) with a few "extra" parts.

These are the extra parts.



This sprue shows some of the more "specific" for "this" kit.
These parts have most to do with the turret,
and a rear plate with the exhaust pipes "molded" on.

These parts are the remainder, which include the Upper Hull, Lower Hull,
Turret Upper, and the front for the Lower Front.

Whats left are the tracks and the decals.
The decals are Typically American (Allied) Markings
The tracks ar Very nicely detailed,
They even tried to replicated the "Ice Cleats" on the face of each track shoe,
however that bit of detail is very soft.
Having learned from the problems of injecting the material from the sides,
they now inject from the center of the "inner" side of the track.
(there was a "post" of material here, but I "nipped" it off before thinking about it....ooooops)
Where it will be hidden by the Road Wheels.




Now lets get down to the Nitty Gritty of this kit.
Here is the Upper Hull

Here are views of the Upper Turret




Here are problems that "I" have identified with the kit.
These amount to Solid Lifting points and the fact that the TC Hatch is molded Closed.
(Reminds me more of an old ESCI Kit)






Here on the hull there is "no" weld bead, just a channel where the weld bead "should" be.

Now these trouble spots are more akin to an engineering problem.
Something has either cut Too Deeply,
or Dragon has used these molds beyond their production life making the "Pre-Builds".
While to the Naked Eye they aren't much......
Once the model is painted and weathered.....
they will sick out like a sore thumb.



Now this spot.....
I have no idea What this is supposed to be....
but "None" of the reference photos I looked at show this.

Now one last thing.....
Isn't there supposed to be a Flap (or something) for the Bow MG to fire through?

Now I know this "/review"(?) is supposed to be Objective, and I really tried.
But "I" feel that this kit cannot be called an "Armor Pro Series" kit.
So many times we looked at their kits,
and said how they "over engineered" them.
Case in Point......the M4A3E8(76)W HVSS #7302
with it's complicated suspension.
We all voiced the opinion that they scaled down thier 1/35 kit to do this one or that one.
That is "not" the case here.
All in all......if you want a model that "looks" like Ersatz M10,
you will not be disapointed.
But if you want a model that actually represents the Ersatz M10.....
you have your work cut out for you.
Here are the corrections that have been made for this kit.
Well......
Where to start.....
There were dissapointments with this kit,
I started with taking the Kit's parts,
and formulating what needed to be done.
Now when I started this....
it was to be just a correction set.
But just a correction set will not do...
Reason being...the Kit itself costs so much,
that people will be tacken aback by buying
"the" kit and then buying the "correction" set.
But...the Erastz kit is based on the "same" lower hull as the other Dragon Panthers.
(which are cheaper)
So.....when this ready....you all can do either one.
Now....Of course the Main issue was the lack of open hatches.
So Tackled it like this,
I took one of my casts of the Hasegawa Up-Dated Panther hull,
surgically removed the Driver's roof and grafted it to the Ersatz Hull

One of the things that bothered "me" the most...
was that there was "no effort" to having the Hull MG.

So I went about this way.


Now of course there were the other little fittings as well that needed to be addressed.
Final Rubber poured and cured
Here are the results.
This is ready NOW
![[linked image]](../../../i179.photobucket.com/albums/w297/KenOverby_album/Ersatz---M10/DSC00119_zps5bb54284.jpg)
![[linked image]](../../../i179.photobucket.com/albums/w297/KenOverby_album/Ersatz---M10/DSC00118_zps3feb7502.jpg)
![[linked image]](../../../i179.photobucket.com/albums/w297/KenOverby_album/Ersatz---M10/DSC00117_zpsa3c17eb4.jpg)
![[linked image]](../../../i179.photobucket.com/albums/w297/KenOverby_album/Ersatz---M10/DSC00116_zps72e339a3.jpg)
![[linked image]](../../../i179.photobucket.com/albums/w297/KenOverby_album/Ersatz---M10/DSC00115_zps0300abcb.jpg)
![[linked image]](../../../i179.photobucket.com/albums/w297/KenOverby_album/Ersatz---M10/DSC00114_zps028d0ea6.jpg)
![[linked image]](../../../i179.photobucket.com/albums/w297/KenOverby_album/Ersatz---M10/DSC00113_zps24d8adcb.jpg)
I hope this is the answer you all been wanting