In my Faun SLT build and in the future the Het M1070 &M1000,what's a good way to make rubber tires look good? I want to put them on a wood dowel of the size of the id of the tire and run them in a drill press at slowest speed and lightly sand with 1800 to 2000 grit sand paper(feather touch). Same tires all at once ,what do you all think,or am I pissing in the wind?
Dave, Thanks in advance for feedback
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How do you make rubber kits tires look good?
MechDave
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Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 04:14 AM UTC
Tojo72
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Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 04:27 AM UTC
Assuming you are talking about vinyl rubber tires that come with some kits:
I just did a AFV Club Stryker,I flat coated with Vallejo to get rid of the shine,and weathered with AK Dust Effects,and some Mig Pigments
I just did a AFV Club Stryker,I flat coated with Vallejo to get rid of the shine,and weathered with AK Dust Effects,and some Mig Pigments
bravo04tango
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Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 04:54 AM UTC
I've always found that a scrubbing of isopropyl alcohol does the trick followed by your weathering of choice. Make sure to seal with something acrylic before using white spirits as they tend to dry out the vinyl over time.
Headhunter506
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Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 05:13 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Assuming you are talking about vinyl rubber tires that come with some kits:
I just did a AFV Club Stryker,I flat coated with Vallejo to get rid of the shine,and weathered with AK Dust Effects,and some Mig Pigments
I'm a firm believer of the K.I.S.S. school. No need to flat coat the tires. Just scrub the sidewalls with a regular, run of the mill toothbrush. This will remove the sheen and leave it with a more natural and realistic rubber appearance than any overcoat will. Plus, it doesn't rub off or peel. Try it, you'll like it.
didgeboy
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Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 05:18 AM UTC
Dave;
If you are talking about adding wear to the tires then that would be an option but painstakingly so. I think hit the side walls with some 400 grit or corus cloth and the tread with the fine side of an Emory board. Touch up the tread with some 400 and you'll be looking good. A drill would work but there will be some slippage with the tires when you apply the sand paper
If you are talking about adding wear to the tires then that would be an option but painstakingly so. I think hit the side walls with some 400 grit or corus cloth and the tread with the fine side of an Emory board. Touch up the tread with some 400 and you'll be looking good. A drill would work but there will be some slippage with the tires when you apply the sand paper
Tojo72
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Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 05:41 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextAssuming you are talking about vinyl rubber tires that come with some kits:
I just did a AFV Club Stryker,I flat coated with Vallejo to get rid of the shine,and weathered with AK Dust Effects,and some Mig Pigments
I'm a firm believer of the K.I.S.S. school. No need to flat coat the tires. Just scrub the sidewalls with a regular, run of the mill toothbrush. This will remove the sheen and leave it with a more natural and realistic rubber appearance than any overcoat will. Plus, it doesn't rub off or peel. Try it, you'll like it.
thanks,next time
Minsk94
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Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 06:38 AM UTC
WarWheels
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Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 11:20 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm a firm believer of the K.I.S.S. school. No need to flat coat the tires. Just scrub the sidewalls with a regular, run of the mill toothbrush. This will remove the sheen and leave it with a more natural and realistic rubber appearance than any overcoat will. Plus, it doesn't rub off or peel. Try it, you'll like it.
Good idea. I also keep my process simple by just rubbing the vinyl tires with steel wool to lighten them up and take the sheen off.
Posted: Wednesday, June 05, 2013 - 06:57 AM UTC
Paint tires with Testor's Gun Metal finish. It is slated to be air brushed but I just use a brush for this job. Make sure all tires are the same base color (preferrably dark) as the thin paint will let some of the base color show through. This paint gives a very nice "aged rubber" finish to the tires and then weather as usual.
I have received a number of compliments on this effect and more than a few "how'd you get that color"!
I have received a number of compliments on this effect and more than a few "how'd you get that color"!
bill_c
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Posted: Wednesday, June 05, 2013 - 10:50 AM UTC
Simple: drop them in the trash and get some resin ones.
Headhunter506
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Posted: Wednesday, June 05, 2013 - 11:09 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Simple: drop them in the trash and get some resin ones.
Logic....
On the other hand, you're saying (writing, actually) that nobody in particular purchase resin copies of the exact item you suggested should be 86'ed, then paint the resin replacements so that they look just like the aforementioned trashcan fillers. Is this correct, Your Honor?
As a sidebar, Micro-Mark sells a urethane rubber kit to make your own:
TCR-40 Tire Casting Rubber, 2 lbs.
Posted: Wednesday, June 05, 2013 - 07:41 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Simple: drop them in the trash and get some resin ones.
Actually, that was thoughts as well while opening this thread. Heard so many horror stories about tyres splitting after a while on the shelfs, I do not want to take the risks using them.
Headhunter506
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Posted: Wednesday, June 05, 2013 - 11:32 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextSimple: drop them in the trash and get some resin ones.
Actually, that was thoughts as well while opening this thread. Heard so many horror stories about tyres splitting after a while on the shelfs, I do not want to take the risks using them.
I've heard these same tales, too. I don't buy'em. I've got 30+ year old kits (AMT cars) with vinyl tires; and, I've yet to see any of them split, separate, crack, ooze some styrene-eating goop or any other anomalies which fellow modelers have described. I think it has more to do with the chemical-based washes, and whatnot, that are applied to said tires which effect decomposition of the materials used to make them.
Posted: Thursday, June 06, 2013 - 02:45 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I've heard these same tales, too. I don't buy'em. I've got 30+ year old kits (AMT cars) with vinyl tires; and, I've yet to see any of them split, separate, crack, ooze some styrene-eating goop or any other anomalies which fellow modelers have described. I think it has more to do with the chemical-based washes, and whatnot, that are applied to said tires which effect decomposition of the materials used to make them.
Hi Joesph. While I know what you say is basically true, you must know that not every company has used the same vinyl/rubber mix for the last 30+ years. Theres a lot of cheaper and synthetic materials used today, that have been optimised for moulding, etc. I wouldn´t take the risk. You may not buy this arguement, but I have seen it myself, where the vinyl(?) tyres in a kit have destroyed the nearest plastic parts.
MechDave
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Posted: Thursday, June 06, 2013 - 03:53 AM UTC
Well well,I didn't mean to stir up a mess but thanks for all of the insight. I can see both sides of the problem.Although I have the ability to cast my own tires and rim assembly,may be thats the way to go.ON the other hand the vinyl tires look more real to me. Well I guess it's time to flip the preverbal coin.
Once again Thanks for feedback.
Dave
Once again Thanks for feedback.
Dave
didgeboy
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Posted: Thursday, June 06, 2013 - 04:33 AM UTC
If you can paint the resin ones, they look pretty convincing. The vinyl ones need a bit of pressure on them to make them sit right and there is the issue of fatigue on the material over time. If you can cast your own, on the cheap, I would say do it, if nothing else you have the mold for future projects. If this is for your SLT then I might suggest that you look into the Real Models resin ones. Inexpensive and nicely detailed. I am using them and so far so good. They are sucking up the paint though. . . .