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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
MIG, Tamiya, Life Color or Vallejo ????
willow
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Tasmania, Australia
Joined: March 28, 2008
KitMaker: 129 posts
Armorama: 114 posts
Posted: Friday, June 28, 2013 - 11:36 PM UTC
Greetings:

I've had a dry spell form modelling and now resuming

Previously I used Tamiya (long history of using Tamiya) or Life Color arcylic paints with MIG pigments and MIG washes. I use an air brush.

Vallejo is new to me. I was given the AFV acrylic techniques DVD by Vallejo - impressive results. I note that Mig Jimenez is promoting this, so it seems he has left MIG and now is supporting Vallejo....

First off, I note they are really promoting their modulation technique style of painting.

Second, I've notice that many of the RAL colours I am used to are not duplicated in Vallejo.

What are your opinions regarding which to use - Life Color and MIG weathering pigments (filters and washes) or the more publicized Vallejo colors, paints, washes, etc

Advice appreciated.... It was easier when there was only Tamiya and Humbrol

Thank you, Iain




Hullebullen
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Alvsborgs, Sweden
Joined: April 14, 2004
KitMaker: 68 posts
Armorama: 38 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 29, 2013 - 01:42 AM UTC
I mainly use Vallejo and I use Lifecolor for a few choice colors (such as dunkelgelb) because I'm not a fan of the Vallejo offering (too dark and green for my taste). I have a couple of AK interactive paints as well but they behave more or less like Vallejos (I think they are actually made by Vallejo, but don't quote me on this).

I use Vallejo mainly because I started out my modelbuilding/painting career with waterbased acrylics (Citadel/Warhammer)so I am used to that medium. Vallejo comes in great bottles, that will last forever (almost) and brush paint well. If Lifecolor came in better bottles (ie. Vallejo-type, eyedropper-style) I would perhaps buy more of them but for now it is for select colors only.

TBH, switching from one type of paint to another won't magically improve your results. If you are used to Tamiya, stick with it, you can do modulation with Tamiya just as well. I tried Tamiya but I didn't like them because I didn't like how they perform when handbrushed (however, I have seen people paint figures to a much higher level than I am capable of with Tamiya just as well - so it is possible, only I can't).

Switching medium usually means a trial-and-error period where your results might be less than pleasing, which can be a bit disheartening.
willow
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Tasmania, Australia
Joined: March 28, 2008
KitMaker: 129 posts
Armorama: 114 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 29, 2013 - 01:42 PM UTC
Thanks for the reply and advice, which I agree with.

I have a box of lifecolor pots and MIG pigments that I acquired rather cheaply, but no Vellego paints at all. Although Lifecolor paints are painful to use with airbrush(no nossle on the pot) its does seem daft to stop using them as I have a good supply. The colours available in Lifecolor are also very good.

I guess I was being swayed by the video I was watching....which used Vallejo paints, washes and filters.

The concept of Vallejo seemed to be easier than using MIG.

Thank you. Cheers, Iain

Grauwolf
#084
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: September 14, 2005
KitMaker: 2,485 posts
Armorama: 743 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 29, 2013 - 03:26 PM UTC
Tamiya in my opinion is hard to beat, have been using them
for over 20 years.

For handbrushing, just add their retarder to the paint
and you will be surprised at the difference.

It is also recommended to add a drop of retarder if airbrushing, prevents the paint from drying at the tip, which for some, causes frustrations.

My painting combo: Tamiya acrylics, Humbrol enamel washes and good old pastel chalks.

Works great for me,

Cheers,
Joe
C[
retiredyank
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Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 29, 2013 - 03:45 PM UTC
Correct me, if I'm wrong; but can't you use glass cleaner as a retarder?
Grauwolf
#084
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: September 14, 2005
KitMaker: 2,485 posts
Armorama: 743 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 29, 2013 - 04:42 PM UTC
Hi Matt,
I read sometime ago not to use glass cleaner because most
contain ammonia and this and acrylics don't like each other.

The ammonia is supposed to break up the binders in acrylics.

I use this stuff strictly to clean my airbrushes.

I can't believe that some use this as a thinner.

I've been told that the key ingredient in products like retarders, is glycerine thus reducing surface tension of the product it is put in and is quite neutral causing no reaction
with the paint other than extending its drying time.

Cheers,
Joe
joegrafton
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United Kingdom
Joined: October 04, 2009
KitMaker: 1,209 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 - 04:52 PM UTC
For airbrushing I find the Tamiya acrylic range very good indeed. In my opinion, to get best results mix the paint with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner (the one with the yellow bottle top) to a thin consistancy & you will get tremendous results.
For hand painting I mostly use Vallejo Model Colour thinned with distilled water.
I like to use Lifecolor for painting tyres.
So, to sum up, try using various manufacturers paints & see what works for you.
Good luck & welcome back to the hobby!

Joe.
willow
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Tasmania, Australia
Joined: March 28, 2008
KitMaker: 129 posts
Armorama: 114 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 04, 2013 - 12:22 PM UTC
Thank you for everyone's replies. Best, Iain
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