AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Tamiya paint
Herchealer
Joined: July 31, 2003
KitMaker: 1,523 posts
Armorama: 710 posts
Posted: Friday, November 28, 2003 - 02:53 AM UTC
hello all, I use Tamiya paint to coat my beasts. I was wondering It seems that after I paint it it inly takes very little to scratch the paint off of it. I have no idea what I am doing wrong. Is it really important to wash the model prior to painting it? Also does anyone have a good idea for the desert color on the american armor? I do not want to use the spray paint Tamiya calls for.
PorkChop
Joined: September 11, 2002
KitMaker: 3,179 posts
Armorama: 1 posts
Posted: Friday, November 28, 2003 - 03:14 AM UTC
Testors makes a good color for the Modern US armor (desert), it's called something like Army/Marines desert tan. I found it still needs to be lightended with a little white out of the bottle to match the photos I was working with.
If you want to stick to Tammy paints, try mixing XF-57 (Buff) and XF-59 (desert yellow) and probably some flat white (XF-2) to get the color you want.
Hope that helps, good luck.
If you want to stick to Tammy paints, try mixing XF-57 (Buff) and XF-59 (desert yellow) and probably some flat white (XF-2) to get the color you want.
Hope that helps, good luck.
wilson
Joined: November 06, 2003
KitMaker: 129 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, November 28, 2003 - 03:28 AM UTC
Quoted Text
hello all, I use Tamiya paint to coat my beasts. I was wondering It seems that after I paint it it inly takes very little to scratch the paint off of it. I have no idea what I am doing wrong. Is it really important to wash the model prior to painting it?
I would say yes, it is very important to wash the model before painting, this gets rid of the dirt and grime from your contact with the model as well as the release agent which will stop the paint from coating the model and "sticking" (for want of a better word)
I use an old toothbrush (gently!!) and a bit of detergent in luke warm water then leave to dry for a day or so.
Hope this is of help
Sam
scoccia
Joined: September 02, 2002
KitMaker: 2,606 posts
Armorama: 1,721 posts
Posted: Friday, November 28, 2003 - 06:34 AM UTC
I agree to what wilson said. The only difference is that instead of a toothbrush I use a big soft flat paintbrush...
Ciao
Ciao
KiwiDave
Joined: January 14, 2003
KitMaker: 248 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, November 28, 2003 - 03:00 PM UTC
I use a product called Liquid Sugar Soap which is also used for preparing full size paint jobs like walls and ceilings. It has the advantage over detergents that any residue left on the surface will not affect the paint.
I soak large parts and tracks in it before starting the build to remove any release agent etc.
I prepare the assembled model for painting by using the toothbrush technique like Sam to get into corners and details. Depending on the model and the finish required a scuff with a worn Scotchpad takes off the plastic shine and improves the 'key' of the paint.
Regards Dave
I soak large parts and tracks in it before starting the build to remove any release agent etc.
I prepare the assembled model for painting by using the toothbrush technique like Sam to get into corners and details. Depending on the model and the finish required a scuff with a worn Scotchpad takes off the plastic shine and improves the 'key' of the paint.
Regards Dave
TwistedFate
Joined: February 11, 2003
KitMaker: 805 posts
Armorama: 286 posts
Posted: Friday, November 28, 2003 - 03:35 PM UTC
One thing else. The longer you let it sit before handling the stronger the paint will hold will get. Even though it is dry in a few minutes, the paint will still come off very easily. After 24 hours or so it will hold through most handling fairly well.
pipesmoker
Joined: January 31, 2002
KitMaker: 649 posts
Armorama: 379 posts
Posted: Friday, November 28, 2003 - 04:45 PM UTC
I agree with Tim. Most modeling paints are very "tender" when first put down on the model. Tamiya paints even more so. Handle very gently or don't even handle the painted part for 12/24 hours. This give the paint a chance to harden completely.
Herchealer
Joined: July 31, 2003
KitMaker: 1,523 posts
Armorama: 710 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 29, 2003 - 02:50 PM UTC
thanks all I will try the detergent on my M2A2 I just built and I will let you know the results. Thanks for the help. One more thing does it matter what kind of detergent? I used just plain old laundry soap. I those these questions seem stupid but I have not gotten the swing of it yet on how realistic you can make these all look. I am starting from scratch since It has been so long.
"With The Guts to Try"
Coyote
"With The Guts to Try"
Coyote
Merlin
Senior Editor
#017
Joined: June 11, 2003
KitMaker: 17,582 posts
Armorama: 903 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 29, 2003 - 08:07 PM UTC
Hi there Herchealer
Unfortunately, most acrylic finishes are less robust than enamels. As the others say, it's important to make sure the model is really clean and grease-free - using a primer coat is also a good idea.
These days I use cellulose (laquer) thinners with Tamiya paints. This gives a "hot" mix that bites better. (It's not safe for brush-painting though, because it can attack the plastic.)
Hope this helps
Rowan
Unfortunately, most acrylic finishes are less robust than enamels. As the others say, it's important to make sure the model is really clean and grease-free - using a primer coat is also a good idea.
These days I use cellulose (laquer) thinners with Tamiya paints. This gives a "hot" mix that bites better. (It's not safe for brush-painting though, because it can attack the plastic.)
Hope this helps
Rowan
Herchealer
Joined: July 31, 2003
KitMaker: 1,523 posts
Armorama: 710 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 30, 2003 - 09:22 AM UTC
What do you guys recommend as a Primer coat?
firemann816
Joined: September 14, 2003
KitMaker: 790 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 30, 2003 - 10:07 AM UTC
Herc -
I use a contrasting color as a primer, and an enamel at that
but I almost use only enamels and am only now exploring acrylics.
You mentioned it is easy to scratch.
If this is when the model is finished and during normal handling, I would ask you are you putting a flat overcoat over your model when finished?
I use Testors DullCote when I'm done to seal the model.
If youre not, I recommend you try that as well.
I use a contrasting color as a primer, and an enamel at that
but I almost use only enamels and am only now exploring acrylics.
You mentioned it is easy to scratch.
If this is when the model is finished and during normal handling, I would ask you are you putting a flat overcoat over your model when finished?
I use Testors DullCote when I'm done to seal the model.
If youre not, I recommend you try that as well.
4-Eyes71
Joined: December 02, 2003
KitMaker: 424 posts
Armorama: 41 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 03, 2003 - 03:05 AM UTC
Quoted Text
hello all, I use Tamiya paint to coat my beasts. I was wondering It seems that after I paint it it inly takes very little to scratch the paint off of it. I have no idea what I am doing wrong. Is it really important to wash the model prior to painting it? Also does anyone have a good idea for the desert color on the american armor? I do not want to use the spray paint Tamiya calls for.
In my case, aside from washing the parts with water and detergent, I apply primer (except when I'm going to paint metallic ones), usually white or gray to ensure that the paint (I do use Tamiya acrylics) will adhere well.
For a good measure, I spray more than one coat. One coat is not enough. To preserve the paint, I spray a coat of clear gloss or Future (good for putting decals on), then spraying clear flat (if the model is supposed to look that way) to seal everything in.
Ron
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