Ok,let's see if anyone can answer this posting,since the past couple posting I sent might have been a little to hard to answer.
I'm in the process of giving my T-62 a full wash and later a more detailed pin wash as a final touch. Now every time I do a wash on my armor vehicles the finish ends up being a satin or even a gloss finish. I've tried afterwards to dull coat the model but I still end up with a satin or gloss finish. Now I use Winsor Newton artist oils and some mineral spirits from my local walmart,what seems to be my problem?

The linseed or sunflower oil used as the carrier and binder in artist oil paints will often dry with a sheen or even glossy.

The simple cure is to apply a flat coat over your washes (pin and general) after they dry out completely. I use Testor's Dull Coat lacquer applied by airbrush, but other clear flat coats will also work.

If the flat coat will not produce a completely flat finish, you have either not allowed the washes to dry out completely or the clear flat has been thinned too much for a single coat coverage. Simply apply another flat coat over the earlier one after the washes have been allowed to dry out more.

I often use multiple thin coats of Testor's Dull Coat, and if the underlying oils have dried thoroughly, these can be applied one right after the other.

BTW: The linseed oil in artist oil paints is also what causes the shiny rings and "wiggles" (called tide marks) that can be left after washes dry. The best thing for these is to prevent them from forming by using a clean brush damp with thinners to wipe the tide marks away before they dry. This requires that you work in smaller areas that you can control as you do your washes rather than try to do the entire vehicle or very large areas all at once.

HTH,

The other thing to do afther you follow mikes procedures is to apply some pastel chalks or pigment powders. These will help dull the gloss as well and when used properly can create a very realistic dust finish. Cheers.

I agree with the above comments, and wanted to also recommend when using the oils, put a dab of whatever color you plan on using on a piece of scrap cardboard and let it sit for a little while, I found the cardboard will soak up the linseed oil and serious reduce the "shiny-ness" of the paints used.

try enamel paint & mineral spirits.

I use lighter fluid for my oil paint washes ...It makes the paint dry flat. Just let it dry completely before handling it too much.

Rick

As stated already, before you use the oils, put them on something that will absorb the linseed oils for several hours. Then instead of using mineral spirits use rectified turpentine. It is pretty expensive stuff, but a decent sized can will be almost a lifetime supply. And to my way of thinking, after spending all the money I do on the kit, and some photo-etch, and a set of tracks, and maybe some resin bits I don't want to run the possibility of messing it up by trying to save a few cents by using a low quality thinner. But that is just my thinking.

Gary

Is it shiny or satin? I have always been told that you add a satin varnish to the base coat to prepare for weathering. I use enamel washes so maybe oil washes are different. I stopped having issues when I used acrylics for my primer/base coats and added Valejo satin varnish to protect prior to weathering. Weathering with enamels is easier since you can clean the wash from unwanted areas with mineral spirits which don't effect the base coats. I have a very minor sheen in areas that don't get heavy weathering.