I'm about to spray primer on my first superdetailed model. I'm a bit nervous about what the primer will reveal, considering how much PE and CA are on the model.
Do people tend to re-prime models? Meaning:
* I clean up the model as best as I can
* I spray primer
* I find some areas that need cleaning and sand/scrape/etc. to clean them up. Now there are "holes" in the primer
Do you just start painting and not worry about those holes? Or do you apply another coat of primer so the entire model is fully covered in primer?
Thanks!
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Re-priming?
Posted: Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 03:29 AM UTC
didgeboy
Washington, United States
Joined: September 21, 2010
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Joined: September 21, 2010
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Posted: Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 03:55 AM UTC
i am no expert by any means, but when I have had the same issue, either touch up the areas that need to be re-primed, or I just shoot the base coat. The main goal of your primer is to give the base coat something to adhere to. small gaps should not be an issue over all unless you are doing some serious scrubbing during the weathering process. Big gaps are a best covered so as not to lose the adhesion. Cheers.
firstcircle
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: November 19, 2008
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Joined: November 19, 2008
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Posted: Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 10:28 AM UTC
Jake, I think it is pretty common to re-prime, thought I guess only you can tell if it is going to cause a problem if you don't do so - depends on how clean and even you need the subsequent base coat to be, how much you damaged the first coat of primer, what the opacity of your base coat is going to be, what colour the plastic is (like, is it bright red? ).
It's always the case that the primer shows up any defects that just weren't visible when it was a bare model, so use it as a means to get it right and just give a quick prime over those re-worked areas - it's one of those things where it will just mean a little delay to starting the base coat, but at least you'll know it'll be going on the best prepared surface you can manage. What you don't want is to spray on the basecoat then be disappointed - or have to sand that down and rework it.
Nice and patient...
It's always the case that the primer shows up any defects that just weren't visible when it was a bare model, so use it as a means to get it right and just give a quick prime over those re-worked areas - it's one of those things where it will just mean a little delay to starting the base coat, but at least you'll know it'll be going on the best prepared surface you can manage. What you don't want is to spray on the basecoat then be disappointed - or have to sand that down and rework it.
Nice and patient...
Posted: Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 10:34 AM UTC
Thanks, all!
One more question... To reprint (or even paint), I'd want to clean the scraping and sanding dust off. After primer coat 1, I can't Jose it down with water. What should I do to clean and keep clean?
One more question... To reprint (or even paint), I'd want to clean the scraping and sanding dust off. After primer coat 1, I can't Jose it down with water. What should I do to clean and keep clean?
imatanker
Maine, United States
Joined: February 11, 2011
KitMaker: 1,654 posts
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Joined: February 11, 2011
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Posted: Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 08:23 PM UTC
Jake, what are you using for primer?
Posted: Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 11:08 PM UTC
For dust and scrappings, just blow it with air from the airbrush. Usually is enough.
When I prime, I dont worry about 100% coverage ... a light misting is enough to get a bite/grip on the mixed surfaces, and also to have "more or less" the same surface colour.
The more you prime, the more fine detail you are burying.
I havent used a primer for about 5/6 years. I spray with a dark Tamiya colour using the air brush. This allows me to see if there are any imperfections and also have the same start colour, no matter what has been used to build the kit. I have never had any issues with this. The kits we use today are not covered in oils like they used to be.
When I prime, I dont worry about 100% coverage ... a light misting is enough to get a bite/grip on the mixed surfaces, and also to have "more or less" the same surface colour.
The more you prime, the more fine detail you are burying.
I havent used a primer for about 5/6 years. I spray with a dark Tamiya colour using the air brush. This allows me to see if there are any imperfections and also have the same start colour, no matter what has been used to build the kit. I have never had any issues with this. The kits we use today are not covered in oils like they used to be.
Posted: Friday, July 26, 2013 - 03:26 AM UTC
Thanks, everyone!
@imatanker - I have both the Vallejo primer and the Tamiya rattle can. I'm likely going to try the Vallejo since I hate using rattle cans... haven't used it before, so I'll be doing some experiments first
Anyone have any experience with the Vallejo primers?
@imatanker - I have both the Vallejo primer and the Tamiya rattle can. I'm likely going to try the Vallejo since I hate using rattle cans... haven't used it before, so I'll be doing some experiments first
Anyone have any experience with the Vallejo primers?
imatanker
Maine, United States
Joined: February 11, 2011
KitMaker: 1,654 posts
Armorama: 1,565 posts
Joined: February 11, 2011
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Posted: Friday, July 26, 2013 - 09:53 PM UTC
Jake, I tried the Vallejo primer, and I'm sorry but I just was not happy with it. I know some people have great luck with it. I did not.
Try as I might, I could not get it to stick well to what I was priming, and yes the parts were clean. Even after a week of drying time, I could still scrape it off rather easily with my fingernail.
The other problem I had was that it did not like to taper back when I sanded it, and wanted to leave a hard step at the edge. If I where you I would most definitely TRY IT ON SCRAP FIRST!
I like the Tamiya spray can primer. I use the Tamiya "fine" version. Sticks well, sands well, and dries quickly.
If you don't like using spray cans, you have the option of decanting some into a small jar, letting it "gas off", putting it in your AB and spraying it that way. Just remember, the Tamiya is solvent based, not water based, so that means you will have to clean your AB with lacquer thinner. Hope that helps, and just my two cents
Jeff T.
P.S. If you type Vallejo Primer into the search box at the top of the home page, you should get all kinds of threads concerning it.
Try as I might, I could not get it to stick well to what I was priming, and yes the parts were clean. Even after a week of drying time, I could still scrape it off rather easily with my fingernail.
The other problem I had was that it did not like to taper back when I sanded it, and wanted to leave a hard step at the edge. If I where you I would most definitely TRY IT ON SCRAP FIRST!
I like the Tamiya spray can primer. I use the Tamiya "fine" version. Sticks well, sands well, and dries quickly.
If you don't like using spray cans, you have the option of decanting some into a small jar, letting it "gas off", putting it in your AB and spraying it that way. Just remember, the Tamiya is solvent based, not water based, so that means you will have to clean your AB with lacquer thinner. Hope that helps, and just my two cents
Jeff T.
P.S. If you type Vallejo Primer into the search box at the top of the home page, you should get all kinds of threads concerning it.
viper29_ca
New Brunswick, Canada
Joined: October 18, 2002
KitMaker: 2,247 posts
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Joined: October 18, 2002
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Posted: Saturday, July 27, 2013 - 04:56 AM UTC
Nothing wrong with the Vallejo primer. Just make sure your parts are well clean, free of any oils/mold release.
If your parts are free of any oils, Vallejo primer will stick and hard as nails.
Stick it in your airbrush, 25-30psi, and let'er rip, no thinning needed, comes in 16 different colors and won't stink up the whole house!
If your parts are free of any oils, Vallejo primer will stick and hard as nails.
Stick it in your airbrush, 25-30psi, and let'er rip, no thinning needed, comes in 16 different colors and won't stink up the whole house!