I currently use a Pasche H single action external mix brush, and for 95% of the time this is fine. I also only use acrylic paint. What I'd like is a recomendation for a brush that can shoot narrow lines for the more difficult camo patterns. Any ideas or suggestions?
I've tried an internal mix badger in the past without much luck.

I use a Badger 150 with a fine point and tip for delicate camo

I really like my Richpen Phoenix 213 for fine work.

(Actually, I use it for just about everything...)

However, the key to any fine lime work is to thin (reduce) the paint to the consistency of ink, reduce the air pressure to around 10 psi (or lower), move the AB in close and keep it moving.

You didn't say what kind of Badger you were using, but I can get lines down to about 1/8" with my Model 200 (which cost less than a third the cost of the Richpen).

It's more about technique than hardware, IMO.

HTH,

Don't remember which model Badger I had. I've never reduced the PSI to 10, usually anything below 20 and I can't get the paint to flow correctly. I'll try thinning the paint more and reduce the air pressure. Thanks for the tip!!

I suggest investing in an internal mix gravity fed airbrush. Everyone has their preferred brand and I like Badger airbrushes as they are what I started with, younger members tend to prefer Iwata in these days of more choice.

I love my Tamiya Superfine HG ...It's made by Iwata ..I got mine through Hobby Link Japan ..

I don't know if the H will go that fine, I mostly use mine for general coverage and large patterns. Honestly it's actually useful for automotive applications. If you can buy or borrow a detail airbrush, I would recommend doing so. There are plenty of options out there, so they aren't hard to find.

There are literally dozens of great airbrushes that can do all of what you want. I have recently been using a badger patriot and have had really great results with it. There are also very good inexpensive iwata knock offs on eBay that work really well and produce super fine lines. Really depends on your budget and if you are looking for long term solution and high wear or low wear and something to get you through till you can upgrade. Search through the airbrush reviews on the forums and I am sure you will find a few that peak your interest. Cheers

Hi John, I use to have a Pasche h a fine airbrush but I wanted to do fine lines to so I bit the bullet and decided to go out and buy a good airbrush. I myself although on a low budget went out and bought an Iwata HP-cp air brush and for myself that was the best thing did. Now I can spray fine lines. I thin my paints 70/30 and spray at or around 10-15 psi. I feel it's up to the person themself on what the they want and depending on there budget, how ever spending that extra money on a good airbrush is well worth it. Happy modeling.

I have a Paasche double action VL-1 and I have found it to be just as good as the more expensive ones. I have tried Iawata, badger,
and the rest and I still go back to my Paasche. Just my 2 cents worth!!!! Have fun.

I highly recommend the Badger Sotar 2020. Last time I checked, Amazon.com had it listed for $74. Well worth the money. Just make sure you get the one with the fine tip and needle.

My 2 Testors/Aztecs are used the most. I have collected over the years - Paasche, Badgers and Iwata however my skill can't really tell you which one is better. They all do their thing. The Testors/Aztec I like because of its easy cleanup.

Cheers

Regards your H, are you using the small tip/nozzles? Out of the box they usually come with a #5. #3 and #1 are progressively smaller. They will spray finer lines, but for best control and consistency, you want an internal mix gravity feed. If you want to stick with the Paasche brand, the Talon is pretty good. Cant go wrong with Badger or Iwata either. Iwata offers their own Chinese knock-off, the Neo series...a low cost option at a price point below the Revolutions. Grex is a relatively new player in the US market and they are of very good quality and reasonably priced. I have several Paasche Hs, an Iwata HP-SC, and a Grex Trititum TG. Horses for courses as the Brits say.

Do yourself a favor and visit this site:

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/

Test and reviews of most of the airbrushes on the market suitable for modeling. His tips are worth reading as well.

PS: $75 for a Sotar is a crazy good deal, and I just checked...still there at that price.

WOW what a selection to choose from. Thank you all for the advice. Now I just have to figure what brush to buy. The internal mix gravity feed will probably be my starting point, and then a look at the old check book. Thanks again..

Don't forget to add "double-action" to the list. Learning how to use one is a bit tough at first, but you can't beat the amount of control it'll give you.

Good point, but every gravity feed I'm aware of is double action.

I would add that you want one with a needle stop. This allows you to set the maximum spray. As you get better with it, you can control that function yourself. Some come with one, others you can buy it as an upgrade part.

A great majority of gravity fed brushes tend to be double action, but not all of them.

Here's a couple of examples I'm aware of:
Iwata M-series


Wave EZ500 - I have one. Made by BB Rich, great brush!


A couple of brushes in the Badger 200 line

I believe this to be a quite common misconception. As far as I know, and I have been searching on info on this for years, the Tamiya airbrushes are made by BB Rich. It doesn't make them less attractive. In my honest opinion, they are better than comparable priced Iwata airbrushes.

I like to use my BADGER 200G (Gravity Feed) airbrush with an "Extra Fine" needle for detail work- I also like the PAASCHE H-1 single action airbrushes. I have 2 of those, a BADGER 200 single action and the aforementioned 200G Gravity Feed single action. I've been airbrushing for 46 years, and I've found that I much prefer the single action airbrushes over the duals. Even when I'm doing the complicated dappled camouflage schemes on my 1/48 WWII German aircraft, I can still get excellent results by using either my PAASCHE H-1s or my BADGER 200s...

PS- I prefer to use TESTORS MODEL MASTER II Enamels- they go on smoother, don't clog my airbrush tips, and are more versatile. Yes, I've tried acrylics...

After all the info you guys provided, I found great prices on a Badger 200 G single action brush and a Master Performance G233 dual action brush. So I bought them both. Now to learn how to use them properly. Guess you really can teach an old dog new tricks (I'm 61). Again thank everyone for the help !!

D'oh! Now I know better

Actually, I should have known better...when I was looking at the Tritium TG, I considered the Iwata HP-M (half the price!). I liked the easy needle adjustment, but wanted double action and was smitten with the trigger function of the TG.

DON'T feel bad!!! The BADGER 200G Gravity Feed Airbrush is a SINGLE ACTION tool. I know, because I've been using mine for the last 15 years...

I am very satisfied with my 2 PAASCHE H-1 Single Actions, my BADGER 200 and 200G Single Actions. I bought my first PAASCHE H-1 about 43 years ago, and the second one not long after- about a year or so. I bought my BADGER 200 40 years ago and my 200G Gravity Feed 15 years ago as I stated above. Aside of buying new needles and o-rings every so often, ALL FOUR airbrushes have given me exemplary, trouble-free service. Keeping your spraying equipment clean is KEY...

I am only 61 years old...

I'm on my fourth compressor. I bought my first compressor when I was 15 years old, after having used the BADGER Propel Compressed Air cans for just shy of 6 months. I got my first-ever airbrush with money that I got for my 15th birthday. The BADGER Airbrush and Propel were the old "starter-kit"- $7.95 + NY City Tax. But then, gas was only 25 cents a gallon back in the Dark Ages... No CAD design, no slide-molding, no photo-etch, and no resin... Liquid Glue was considered to be "high tech"... We've come a looooong way...

Some of you may be wondering, "Why so many airbrushes?"

First, and most importantly, I break down my airbrushes for a full clean every single time I change colors- without fail. No mistakes that way...

Second, while the first airbrush parts are soaking in thinners, I can go on with my work using a second airbrush with the different color, usually with the 200. One of my PAASCHE H-1s is STRICTLY for "Metalizer" Lacquers, which I use on some of my 1/48 Aircraft and HO brass steam locomotives. My 200G is strictly for detail and touch-up work. My methods are not for everyone; that's just how I roll...

I've saved A TON OF MONEY by NOT buying every single new product that comes down the pike, specifically fancy, expensive dual-action airbrushes... Some years ago, I bought an IWATA (I forget which model, exactly) dual-action which worked just fine. But that was it. For me, I found that I could achieve the same results with my supposedly "inferior" single-actions, so I sold the IWATA for a good price to a buddy of mine, since he was drooling all over it... ENJOY!!! | | )

I currently have two Hs, each with the full range of nozzles. I had four at one time when I was building only car models as a business. One for metallics, one for clear, one for white (and other light colors), one for everything else. Each of those had a dedicated cup and siphon tube.

61? I'm catching up slowly...I'll be 57 this month