Hi all

I'm not after advice on hold, styling or anything, that ship sailed long ago.

I like to use the hairspray technique where possible and have some reasonable results with it. I apply it as described by Mike Rinaldi i.e. base coat, 2 coats hairspray, top coat Tamiya acrylic thinned with water.

What I've found is that I always seem to remove some of the base coat which results in the top coat being tinged with the base colour. For example I recently did a Jagdtiger interior. Base coat = hull red, top coat cream. When I chipped it some of the red came with the cream resulting in a slight pink tinge to the cream which wasn't ideal!

I've tried mixing the base colour with lacquer thinner to make it more durable and I've tried applying a protective coat of future to the base coat, but I'm still finding the base coat comes off.

I don't feel like I'm over scrubbing at it, and I don't think I've got too much water going on.

Has anyone else had the same problem? Your words of wisdom are greatly appreciated

Thanks

Try to protect the base color of waterproof glossy varnish. this should help.

How long has it been since you applied the hairspray on the inner coat? Typically you should wait around 2 hours (or more) before you try to apply hairspray and the final coat to be chipped. You do not need a protective layer, though a gloss varnish would make it chip differently and much easier but the chips would be big.

I never use hairspray. It just doesnt work for me. What I use is ak's chipping formula which works the same way as a hairspray would and does the job well

I always use a protective lacquer. In order not to damage the base color on the protruding parts and corners of the hull. It's a fact that you have to be careful because of the smooth surface easily wipe off the paint.

The same happened to me in the past.
Now, I am using a base layer from the Hmbrol range, which doesn't solve in water.
After it has dried at least one day, a layer of Talens mat varnish is applied, another day drying and than two layers of hair spray. Drie again for several hours and than spray the water based coat.
Brush it with an old brush and hot water.
The effect is perfect.

Hi,

I use a base-coat of Tamyia acrylic thinned with their acrylic thinner, however, I leave it 24 hours at least before I apply the hairspray. I have never encountered your problem doing it this way. I think you need to let the base-coat cure properly before you move on.

All the best,

Paul

Hi Andy,
as Paul d. R. said, I also use enamels as a base, then hair spray and then water soluble paints.
Or you can use acrylics but hit the base coat with an enamel clear lacquer. But make sure the base is cured first, at least 24 hrs.



Paul

Hi,

I am using the hairspray-method with Vallejo-Acrylics.
These colors are resin-based and while drying cover the surface like a thin foil (sorry, I don't find the correct words in English, it's not my mother language).
So they are very good as base-color.
They can be used without sealer or varnish.

But due to the resistant surface they are not so good as top color...

I have no experience with Tamiya color, but from what I have heard they are working differently and don't build such a resistant surface as Vallejos...

Cheers
Thomas

Hi Andy,

It has as much to do with the red paint as anything else. They are notorious for bleeding in various circumstances. Just let the red dry longer to make certain it is fully cured. The primary colors all use really strong pigments to create their vibrant nature so they "can" bleed more than our usual camo colored paints do.

Sometimes with red, it really requires you to lay it down in very thin coats so it dries right. If you use it as a red primer layer, less is usually more. Same with white, lay it down thin. Don't spray heavy thick layers, it can cause a host of issues when used in this regards.

Oils can also fix any tint issues afterwards.

As for the base coat, I always prime and the base layer is usually thinned with lacquer thinner as well (when using Tamiya). All of these techniques run the risk of cutting through to plastic, just deal with it by hand painting any exposed areas. If it's a lot, then simply respray the section and do it again. Mistakes are part of the process...integrate them, don't sweat them.

This issue would occur whether it was HS, chipping fluid or Windex...chemical chipping is not 100% full proof and simply takes practice to master. Doesn't matter the brands/styles in question.

It is ALWAYS a good idea to test any of these methods out first, usually more than once. And if it doesn't work as intended, try it again. I can't say it enough. Experience is the ONLY way to get good at this stuff.

Best,

Mike
RSP

Thanks for your advice guys

Luckily the bleeding is only on interior chipping, so as Mike said I should be able to sort it using oils on the more obvious areas.

I'm going to chip the wheels and gun travel lock. This time I think I'll prime, then use Vallejo acrylic before the hairspray. Last time I used Vallejo it was a sod to get off, so hopefully it'll be the same again

Thanks again.

Try beginning with a primer coat, like Tamiya, AK Interactive, or Mr. Surfacer. You might also want to try letting your chipping dry longer.

Thanks guys I think I've got to the bottom of it

I was spraying the base coat from too far away, the paint wasn't adhering properly so it was coming away.

Thanks for your input though, nice to know there's people willing to help