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Armor/AFV: Braille Scale
1/72 and 1/76 Scale Armor and AFVs.
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How to make link and length to sag
Sgt_Pickle
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Kaunas, Lithuania
Joined: March 01, 2013
KitMaker: 105 posts
Armorama: 103 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 17, 2013 - 09:29 AM UTC
I'm really interested in building 1/72 scale armor but I ran into this problem. First kits that I bought had vinyl and DS tracks and they were great. You just had to glue them to the running gear. The last kit that I bought was an Italeri IS-2. It has link and length tracks. IS-2 has prominent track sag. How could I replicate that?
Tojo72
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: June 06, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, August 17, 2013 - 09:56 AM UTC
The link and length tracks that I have worked on have the sag molded into the upper run,but if your talking about individual tracks,there is a different process

I form the indies with Tamiya Extra Tin cement,as the run grows I keep it level with a ruler pressed against the side to keep it straight.Once you have the whole run assembled,wait 30-45 minutes so that they dry ,but not all the way.Then you fold them around the wheels and sprockets,,pressing in the sag.I leave it overnight to completely harden,then remove the entire run,paint and weather and reattach.

if you search indie tracks,you will find many tutorials which show diffrent variations of this.
Sgt_Pickle
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Kaunas, Lithuania
Joined: March 01, 2013
KitMaker: 105 posts
Armorama: 103 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 17, 2013 - 10:04 AM UTC
I have worked with most types of tracks in 1/35 but how to make them sag in 1/72? Vinyl and DS tracks are easy but link and length not so much. One thing that I tried was heating them with a lighter. It didn't turn out as I expected
Tojo72
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: June 06, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, August 17, 2013 - 10:08 AM UTC
Okay then,I am surprised then,because the Tamiya link and length are molded with a sag,hopefully someone will come up with an idea
CMOT
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ARMORAMA
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: May 14, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, August 17, 2013 - 11:13 AM UTC
I suggest installing on the model and then marking where the return rollers sit. remove from the model and apply some heat to allow manipulation and when set reinstall on the model.
tatbaqui
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ARMORAMA
#040
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Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: May 06, 2007
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Posted: Saturday, August 17, 2013 - 11:51 AM UTC
I'd try cutting up a few links probably 3 or 4 at most -- those that would sit on the rollers. It gives you some control on how to form the sag. There will be gaps as you introduce the angles, so this needs to be filled up with bits of plastic. Now the segments between the rollers may be heated up, and instead of an open flame which could have disastrous effects -- maybe several dips in warm to hot water may get it to cooperate.

Its tricky, easier said than done. Indy links are your best bet to have a sag. And at 1:72, I don't think there is much available. I thought of the same solution as well when I was building a 1:72 ESCI Stupa for the Jurassic Campaign -- after much thought, the schurzen came to my rescue!

Good luck -- let us know how you get along with this.

AFVFan
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 17, 2012
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Posted: Saturday, August 17, 2013 - 03:41 PM UTC
One thing to think about before you do anything. Link and length tracks are pretty much designed to be a "perfect" fit out of the box. If you introduce sags in the upper run, you shorten the distance it covers. That may translate into a gap between it and the next section creating another problem.
grendelrex2
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: May 22, 2013
KitMaker: 11 posts
Armorama: 11 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 17, 2013 - 04:50 PM UTC
The hard part is you have to position them in that you know where the return rollers will be. The easy part is you just bend them over that spot.

This picture doesn't show it well and I only wanted a slight sag but the sag I did put in was just done by bending the track.

Sgt_Pickle
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Kaunas, Lithuania
Joined: March 01, 2013
KitMaker: 105 posts
Armorama: 103 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 17, 2013 - 09:15 PM UTC
Thank you all for your replies. The next time I build I'll try using hot water or just bending them. Last time I tried bending by heating the tracks with a lighter. Needless to say it was stupid
CMOT
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ARMORAMA
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, August 18, 2013 - 02:51 AM UTC
A hair dryer and hot water is easier to control.
tray
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Budapest, Hungary
Joined: September 13, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 - 12:13 PM UTC
Easy. First, before gluing, I fit the track on the return rollers and mark their positions on the track with a sharpie or a pencil. Then I take the track section and bend them gently with my fingers. You are doing it right if there is some whitish discoloration. You need to find the proper angle and force not to crack the tracks. They will more or less keep their shape.

This method worked well with tracks from Revell, UM, and Maco. On one model I did a thermal treatment afterwards by dipping the tracks in hot water, but I found that it is completely unnecessary. You don't even need to heat the plastic, just bend it gently, and it's ready.
spacewolfdad
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England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: May 23, 2010
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Posted: Sunday, August 25, 2013 - 05:55 AM UTC
Hi,

As previously mentioned, mark the position of the return rollers and then either use gentle friction with your fingers on the tops of the track or an hair-dryer. Both will work and do require a little patience as the effect is not immediate, but the end result is worth it.

All the best,

Paul
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