I'm not necessarily new to model building, but new, more or less, to the intricacies of such detailing and painting. I've only heard of the "Hairspray technique" a few days ago. I'm also unsure of what a filter is. I know what a photography filter is more or less and what a drink filter is... but not so for model building. I am also slow to pick up on washes.

I just read some very helpful and comprehensive articles on the like but I am still very confused. If some one can help me with the details and intricacies and everything of this... it'd be much appreciated.

Mike,

I can't help you with the hairspray or filter technique because I don't use them. But I can give you some advice on washes.

A wash is pretty much what it sounds like: you wash the model in some very heavily thinned paint. More like tinted thinner as opposed to thinned paint. The wash is applied with a brush so that it flows into recessed lines, nooks, crannies, etc. It gives the paint job depth.

I use artist oil paints thinned with Turpenoid on my washes. Both of those ingredients you can get at Michaels Craft Store. Teh oil paint tubes can be expensive, but I've had some of them for over ten years, so they do go a long way.

After you paint the model, give it a gloss coat. I use Future Floor Wax. This seals the paint. After letting that "cure" for about 12 hours, apply your decals. Let them dry thoroughly, then apply more Furture over the decals and let that cure. Now you're ready for the wash.

Like I said, you want tinted thinner. Mix a couple of small blobs of oil paint in a tablespoon or two of thinner. For an OD paint job, I use a very dark green, almost black. When the wash is mixed, apply it with a soft, pointed brush to recessed areas: turret rings, engine panels, fuel filler caps, periscopes - any recessed area. That's the basics of a wash.

You can also use a wash to bring out detail and to weather the vehicle. Mix green, brown and black to get a wash for fuel stains, grease stains, etc. Mixes of browns, yellows and reds can be used for rusting effects around wheel nuts, exhausts, etc.

It's an easy process and can be used for lots of things to bring out, or highlight details. The best advice is to take some old model (I use a Tamiya Sherman Jumbo) and experiment on it.

HTH,
Steve

Ok. Thanks. Now I have no oil paints. Would Testors brand or Model Master enamels work too? Plus I'm also set on the test subject: a busted (not intentional, actually broken) Dragon M4 Sherman that I was trying to build a few years ago. Also, what could I use to get a dull coat without having to buy an actual dullcote spray?

Hi mate.

The hairspray method -

Basically you spray an undercoat colour. Seal it with a coat of varnish and wait for it to dry.

Once dry spray the model with hairspray allow it to dry and then spray the base coat with acrylic paint.

Allow this 5-10min before using an old paintbrush or toothpicks with water to scratch off the base coat to show the undercoat.

This works really well with whitewashes or heavily damaged rusty vehicles.

Hope it helps.

Ah. Ok. Thanks. That helps a lot.

I don't know about using enamels - I've never tried.

ModelMaster/Testors makes a good dullcote in acrylic form. Works great.
http://www.testors.com/product/136694/4636/_/Flat_Clear_Acryl_Acryl_-_1oz._Bottle

I have heard some people use heavily diluted white Elmers Glue for a dullcote, but I've never tried that

Well... I know about the Model Master, but I have no money to buy it with.

Email me your mailing address and I'll mail you some.

[email protected]

Michael,

Filters are used to vary or "modulate" the shades of the underlying paint colors to give variety, visual interest and "life" to monochrome (single color) areas of the model.

They're called filters for the reason that they work just like filters used in photography or over stage lights in theater. They create a transparent colored layer over the underlying paint and subtly change its tint or shade. Very refined uses can also create shadows and highlights, overcoming some of the effects of scale lighting, as well as operate as part of the integrated weathering plan for the model.

The two most common methods to create filters on models is to use the "oil dot" method or the "filter wash" method.

The "oil dot" method (also commonly referred to as "color modulation" or "color mapping") uses small dots of artist oil paints (usually complementary colors, but often others) placed on the model and then brushed out with a brush dampened in mineral spirits (or other thinners) into a thin, transparent layer. Several colors are often (blues, red, ochers, white, yellow, etc) used to provide variety by way of creating slightly differing shades of the underlying base color.

The "filter wash" method usually uses proprietary washes that are made and sold by various companies (MIG and AKI are two common brands). These premixed washes are applied over the underlying colors in thin layers (usually NOT allowed to puddle or collect in and around details like general washes). The intent is the same as with the "oil dot" method, to vary the shades and tints of the underlying colors.

IMO, the main mistake that guys make using the "oil dot" method is that they apply all of their colors at once and then blend them all together into a single, "muddy" brown color that creates a uniform color change on the underlying base color. If this is done, there is no variety (no "modulation") just a uniform color change.

Guys also make the same mistake with proprietary filter washes. They apply the filter uniformly all over the entire model and achieve a uniform color change. Again, there is no variety or visual interest created in the monotone base coat.

Here's an example of a single color (monotone) tank after receiving an "oil dot" color modulation application:



Note that I used Prussian blue, yellow ocher and raw sienna (blue, yellow, and brown) over the base OD green. This had the effect of creating darker OD greens (with the blue), brighter greens (with the yellow) and duller greens (with the brown). The white oil paint was used to create some streaking and variety. Some locations for the blue and yellow ocher were also chosen to emphasize the shapes by subtly shading and highlighting certain areas.

Also note that this was only one step an a many step process for weathering this model. Here's the finished model:



You can find a detailed step-by-step explanation of all of the finishing and weathering here:

Armorama::Operation Tractable Vignette

Hope this explanation helps to point you in the right direction.

Happy modeling!

Thanks guys now I understand color modulation better. I'm not sure if I like the effect though. It seems more artistic then realistic. I can see where it would have its uses though. Will have to experiment.
Would it work with acrylic paste paints? I have some of those for weathering.

Tom

Here's a not bad video that shows the hairspray technique:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CNFdEZnQN8

HTH,
Jim

Nice video. I watched and, although I wasn't able to use sound, I feel I learned quite a bit just by watching.

Hi Michael,

there's a team of german figure painting madmen, they have their own Youtube-Channel and did a 4-part video tutorial about the hairspray-technique, use of pigments, washes, rust - whatever you want.

Language is German, so just let the video speak for itself.
For me it was an eye-opener.

Youtube-Channel Massive-Voodoo

have fun!
Thomas