In my last armor post you guys gave some great advice on assembling single piece tracks. And it worked great on my marder III model. Now the model is complete, and reflecting on the amount of time and effort I put into the tracks, Idont see any real noticble differnece between single piece versus rubberband type, excpet for possibly the sagging effect between wheels. Being new to Armor this was my first experiment with single piece....... So my question (s) are:

Do you prefer single piece or complete plastic tracks?

Do most armor kits come single or plastic track?...I tend to stick to Tamiya kits...

I like the single-run tracks. Some of the older ones really aren't as nice as today's efforts though.

I think roughly half the AFV modelers out there like the individual links because of the improved appearance on older kits plus that "atmosphere" they can create with them. White metal tracks seem to convey "weight" on the models. It's a nice touch.

If I could walk up to a counter and pick between the two - I think for runs that were all-metal on the real tank I'd be inclined to go with the individual track links. Vice versa for rubber shoed links. What would you choose?

Gunnie

I prefer individual link tracks - just my personal opinion.

Not only are they easier to replicate realistic sag with, but you also get extras on the sprues to use as spares on the vehicle itself. This adds a nice touch. I have seen pictures of German tanks with T-34 tracks used as "add-on" armor. The individual links DML provides in their T-34 series kits are ideal for this. I feel that the single link type tracks are more versatile - although they take more time to assemble - obviously.

On US tanks such as Shermans - the difference between rubber band style tracks and individual links isn't as noticable. The tracks tend to be tighter than German and Russian vehicles, and as such - the sag effect you can get with individual links is negated. That said - I still use either RHPS or AFV Club tracks on my US tanks. Maybe I'm just nuts :-)

If I had my way - I'd put Fruils on all of my kits (except for US tracks). Not necessarily for the sag or detail, but for the ease of getting realistic coloration. I use Blacken-It on them, and think that it looks fabulous. I don't have to paint the tracks - which saves time in the long run.

Later-
Jeff

I tend to agree w/ JR .I like the individual link track,to have a natural way to create sag,on the top run.But for vehicles with "live track" I prfer using vinyl band tracks.This will make the assembly easier,and there wont be accidenatl sag where it doesnt belong. (++)

HI. Never had any real luck with building the single link plastic tracks that Dragon puts in their kits. Just can't seem to get things lined up correctly. Or to keep them from coming apart just I get everything lined up in a fairly decent order. I'll chalk it up to my own inate ability as the real cause of this problem. Plus I look for just about any excuse to use the Fruilmodel links, even it it keeps me from buying another model for the time being. And on vehicles that I use these white mtal links on, I try to keep the fender area to a minimum in order to show off the tracks more.
I do use the 'rubber bands' on Shermans and other such types. Doing Tamiya's OIF Bradley right now and have to use them on this model. But since a lot of the track itself is covered up anyway on this AFV, it doesn't really matter. Sometimes I have a real problem getting the paint to stick to the 'rubber band' tracks while putting them on the vehicle, but I've found that a real good washing in warm soapy water and just using light sprays of red primer tends to keep this problem to a minimum. (One of the many things I've learned from this site.)
I like to use the Fruilmodel tracks for spare links, esp, when they are added for protection. You can add the wire "bolt' on the last piece of a run and it looks more like the real thing.
Haven't tried the Blacken-It yet that jrnelson uses, but what I've seen of his models with this type of application, it looks real good indeed. I just need to get out and find it here locally and give it a try. Right now I give them several light coats of red primer and them a couple heavey washes with the darker oils and some drybrushing with sliver on the high points and areas where track meets ground and that's it.
I think in the end it all boils down to what each individual modeler wants and likes to work with, and, of course, how much money they can or want to tie up in one particular model. It's everybody's choice. Just like the choice to use or not use the PE and resin after market parts are.

Take care, sgirty

Some of the older Tamiya kits that started life as motorized or static versions have no detail on the inner surface of the tracks except for maybe token guide teeth detail. It's one of the things that bother most armor modelers. I think you can compare this in the aircraft world to kits with no wheel well detail or the molded pilot/seat combination that attaches to one side of the fuselage.

If I can get away with using the rubber band tracks I will..but in some cases you just can't ...I hate the dragon tracks as I too seem to always have them falling apart when I try to get them on ...I use friul tracks when ever I can,t get around it or if I'm building a kit for a show... I built a KV1 a few years ago and used good old pins and a good amount of dirt came out okay for an old kit .


Rick

I use individual lnk track exclusively now. Given the detail on the rest of the model and the general lack of detail in vinyl, its the only way to go. vinyl is too hard to fix, sag, sink holes and flash are difficult to correct without ruining them.

i dont like individual tracks too much,
as the difference between them and single peice ones is very rarely noticable.

plus i usually stick to allied models, so the sag issue doesnt matter too much too me,
even if i need to recreate sag, its easy to just glue the tracks to the wheels, which gives a very realistic representation.

ive never had problem with the paint not sticking to the tracks, and i dont prime them.

plus the cost factor involved with AM tracks puts me off, £30 for a set of fruils or modelkasten tracks is often more than the model costs in the first place, and the effect is usually not worth the cost IMHO.

cheers

joe

I personally have never built link-by-link tracks - they're scary! I'm not concered with accuracy so much as I am with fit and ease of assembly, and one-piece tracks are as easy as they get! Wish manufacturers would give us a choice between the 2, as Academy did with their M3 Stuart.... that way we'd all be happy!

And, propboy, rubber-band tracks tend to be used by Tamiya and Trumpeter, while all of DML's tracked kits use link-by-link tracks. Academy tends to use a mix of the 2 - as far as I know, their M-113s use link-by-links, while most of their other kits use rubber-bands. And, for the really big kits (1/16, big 1/35 scale) ALL manufacturers use link-by-link tracks - probably because they don't make lengths of vinyl that big!

I use the rubberbands, and to make sag I glue them to the wheels,and sometimes when that's hard I use some wire around the wheel and through a hole in the track.
anyway would like to use the Fruil tracks only the cost ...
I just hope AFV club will come out with more sets of individual tracks, like the one for the M60 tank.

Well, they already have quite a nice collection of indi link tracks to choose from:
AF3546 - T91E3 (for M41 Walker Buldog)
AF3544 - Sd.Kfz.251
AF3538 - T48 (for M4 Sherman)
AF3537 - T84E1 (for M26 Pershing and M46 Patton)
AF3536 - T80E1 (for M26 Pershing and M46 Patton)
AF3533 - T84 (for M4 Sherman)
AF3532 - T80 (for M4 Sherman)
AF3526 - T51 (for M4 Sherman)
AF3520 - T36E6 (for M3/M5/M8 Stuart)
AF3519 - T16 (for M3/M5/M8 Stuart)
AF3512 - T158 (for M1A1/M1A2 Abrams)
AF3510 - T142 (for M60)
AF3505 - T??... (for M48 and early M60)
AF35S10 - Diehl tracks for M113A1G (reboxed HKCW)
AF35S09 - Diehl tracks for Leopard 2 (reboxed HKCW)
AF35S22 - T130E1 (for M113)
AF35S23 - T136 (for M108/M109 SPG - reboxed Skybow)

Not bad, don't you think? Plus they offer a number of high quality one piece vinyl tracks.

Rgds,
Pawel

As Pawel stated, AFV Club already makes excellent single link workable tracks for the M60. The older chevron type is for use on the M88/M88A1, early M60 and early M48 series tank. They also make the T-142 track (replaceable football shaped pads) for use on later M60A1/A2/A3 and M48A5 tanks.

I use "rubberband" tracks because I am old and things don't work as well as they used too. A friend gave me a box of r/b panzer tracks to use on the Dragon kits I have. In fact, if anyone has a set of rubberband tracks for AFV's M88 I would love to buy them or trade for the single link ones in the kit. Just PM me.
Chuck

Have a bunch of these AFV Club tracks sitting around.
Okay I do think I will use them on the up coming M-10 .
Any hints as to glue?
Will Tamyia Thin work?
or I will get the Friul ones.

Thanks
(++) (:-)

I will use either when I see fit. The best individual are Fruilmodel but some of the vinal tracks are pretty good now. The difference I will say is noticable and individual links do make it more realistic.

I use the newer Tamiya rubberband tracks and also the DML individual links provided in thier kits. I just can't bring myself to buy the metal ones that cost more than the model kit.

It takes me awhile to do the clean up and assembly of the DML links ( I only have gross control of my left hand due to a stroke), but I finally get there. All you need is a straight edge and low tack cello tape. The straight edge, actually two, to keep the links straight. The low tack cello tape to keep the sections in place on the drive sprocket and idler while the glue sets. I build the DML tracks in four sections per side.

As to glue, I use Testers tube glue thinned with Testers liquid glue and apply with a small brush.

Have to say that since I tried individual link tracks (for my 1/35 scale models) I won't be going back to the one piece type. I prefer to build 1/25 scale AFV's and all my kits have individual links so I'm use to dealing with them anyway. I decided to try the individual links on a 1/35 model and was pleased with the outcome. I've since tried Fruil and Modelkasten and like them both although I'm a little more partial to the Fruil tracks.

Some people worry about the extra weight the Fruil tracks add but since all my tanks go into dioramas I really don't care.

I generally prefer the individual links. Sometimes though the cost can be prohibitive (like with the Fruil) they can cost the same as the initial kit. I like DML which gives you a choice. With the German WW2 stuff I almost always go with individual links. I build most of my US OOB so I use the rubberband if it looks good

Hey,

I'm not sure if anyone is interested, but I am hooked on using the Fruil tracks on my kits. Consequently, I have stocks of the kit tracks left over that I will never need. If anyone is in need of the following, let me know and we can arrange something; either trade, or you can have them if you cover the shipping. I have the following:

Dragon:
Hetzer (mid prod),
Nashorn, PzIVJ, Hummel, Kugelblitz- All of these are the PzIV solid horn 40cm tracks,
Sdkfz 250,
Panther II

Tamiya:
King Tiger single piece track

I've used single track links on my last 2 vehicles and from now on I'm sold on them I have to say. I find them easy to make, paint and weather.
I've used kit tracks and Modelkasten ones and as i've said I'm sold from now on.
My experience with Tamiya kits is that they tent to have mainly plastic tracks but not all such as the Tiger Is and the Sturmtiger which all have single track links.

Russ

The last build of Academy 1/35 M113 ACAV Vietnam which was a fine model and still hasnt been finished, gave the option of using either piece by piece tracks or one length rubberband. I have to say that they are both very nice and i believe that with proper paintig and weathering they show no much of difference. Anyway i believe that the link by link optioon is a must now and it also gives you the possibility of spare tracks especially usefull in dios. I hope more companies offer both options in their kits and maybe a lil PE sprue!!!!! Do you hear me Santa :? (:-)