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Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
How to remove the seam line on Gun tubes
SS-74
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Vatican City
Joined: May 13, 2002
KitMaker: 3,271 posts
Armorama: 2,388 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 - 06:05 PM UTC
Hi Guys,

It might be a question that had been asked a million times. I am sorry that I need to ask it again. Since I am rather new to Armor modelling, (Just finished 6 to 7 models so far). One thing bothers me is the seam line in the middle of a plastic kit gun tube. Is there a good way to remove them? I had tried to putty them up and sand, but I either can't remove them totally, or I end up with an oval shaped gun tube. That's why for the last few models, I always been purchasing metal turned tube to replace the kit tube. But once a while I would like to use the one comes with the kit. So any help will be appreciated. Thanks!

Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 - 07:02 PM UTC
I lightly sand the edges of each half. I test fit to ensure that the tube will be round when cemented. After that, I put glue into the locating pins only and clamp them together. After I ensure that the barrel halves are aligned, I used to use Tenex 7, but now use Tamiya Extra Fine liquid glue. I run a bead along the seam with the fine point brush. I try not to hurry.

I used to just glue both halves together and clamp, then try to sand the seam, but I too ended up with an oval barrel.
sgtreef
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Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 - 07:05 PM UTC
Best way I have found is to scrap with hobby knife at an angle then take fine sandpaper and put barrel between paper and sand while twirling barrel through paper,kind of keeps it round. Or get some brass tubing to replace if not a tapered barrel.
ArmouredSprue
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South Australia, Australia
Joined: January 09, 2002
KitMaker: 1,958 posts
Armorama: 1,003 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 - 08:33 PM UTC
Hi!
I have used the method described by Shepperd Paine in his book about modeling AFV, that's quite simple:
First of all, test dry fit until you're satisfied with the result. Then put liquid glue in both sides of the gun barrel, let it works on the plastic and soften it a little, so join the halves and clamp them for a tight fit. Let dry completly.
Now, you scrape with a knife the seam bead that has formed and then sand it as mentioned by sgtreef in the post above, I mean, sand it in rolling motion until you get a smooth surface. If not you can use putty softened with liquid glue, also let dry completly before sanding....
HTH
shiryon
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New York, United States
Joined: April 26, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 - 10:53 PM UTC
I've used the knife scraping method bu no matter how careful you are a Knife bade is till a straight edge. I bought my self a FLEX-I-File tool a few years ago that work great. It's essentially a 'U' shaped metal frame upon which you attach different grits of sanding strips. By compressing the the top end of the 'U' you allow the sanding strip to bend to the contour of the barrel or other rounded edge. One good tip I read though ,Lightly paint the seam with silver paint before final painting. It will bring out any imperfections in the sanding gluing. :-)
210cav
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Virginia, United States
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 - 11:35 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I've used the knife scraping method bu no matter how careful you are a Knife bade is till a straight edge. I bought my self a FLEX-I-File tool a few years ago that work great. It's essentially a 'U' shaped metal frame upon which you attach different grits of sanding strips. By compressing the the top end of the 'U' you allow the sanding strip to bend to the contour of the barrel or other rounded edge. One good tip I read though ,Lightly paint the seam with silver paint before final painting. It will bring out any imperfections in the sanding gluing. :-)



Could not agree with you more. The U shaped file is a combat essential item. I will add that I now have a collection of brass barrels which I find ever so much more easy to handle. They look great.
DJ
Chief
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Washington, United States
Joined: February 07, 2002
KitMaker: 498 posts
Armorama: 193 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 - 11:44 PM UTC
SS-74, Heres what I do, Test fit first and see if the halfs are going to make a good match. Apply liquid glue to both halfs and let it work for a few seconds, put together and tape/clamp with rubber bands. After its dried I apply a little bondo putty and let it dry. I then GENTLY tighten it in the chuck of my Craftsman re-chargable drill and fill a small plastic tub with warm wate.r I then take 600 grit wet/dry sand paper and lay it across my fingers and gently cup the barrel in the paper. While keeping the paper wet, I run the drill and pass the paper back and forth the full length of the barrel. This takes it down to perfectly round. You only neeed to go until the seam is gone. I then finish with 2000 grit to polish it. The rechargable drill runs pretty slow and if you keep the paper wet, you don't have to worry about melting the barrel.HTH
Greg
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Oregon, United States
Joined: April 12, 2002
KitMaker: 455 posts
Armorama: 298 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 - 12:30 AM UTC
I concur with the above. Glue the thing together REAL tight so a little dribbly seam of plastic is raised by the clamping pressure, and let the thing dry for a few days. Then sand with fine sandpaper wrapped AROUND the tube or use the Flex-i-File route. I don't have one of those yet. Still, while my M4A4 75mm kit barrel is OK I really like the looks of the turned aluminum barrels for my upcoming 17pdr Fireflies. I think barrel length has something to do with it; shorter stubby barrels are easier to sand down without creating flat spots or uneven contours. I've decided to use metal or brass for all my long gun models, even if I add nothing else in the way of aftermarket details.
Greg
Folgore
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Canada
Joined: May 31, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 - 01:43 AM UTC
The method described in Mike Ashey's "Modeling Realistic Tanks and Artillery" works perfectly for me. Place the two halves together and keep them together by wrapping two or three small strips of masking tape around them. Apply super glue along the seam. Take the tape off and apply the glue there afterwards. Scrape off the excess glue with a hobby knife, then wrap a piece of sandpaper around the barrel and sand so you won't lose the circular shape of the barrel. I like to go over it again with steel wool to make the barrel nice and smooth. The first time I tried it, I had perfect results.

Nic
SS-74
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Vatican City
Joined: May 13, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 - 02:50 AM UTC
Hi Guys, Thank you all for your help, you are great! I got the flex-i-file thing, will try it on my next project. WIll let you know. Thanks again! really appreciate it! :-)
210cav
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Virginia, United States
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 - 03:16 AM UTC

Quoted Text

SS-74, Heres what I do, Test fit first and see if the halfs are going to make a good match. Apply liquid glue to both halfs and let it work for a few seconds, put together and tape/clamp with rubber bands. After its dried I apply a little bondo putty and let it dry. I then GENTLY tighten it in the chuck of my Craftsman re-chargable drill and fill a small plastic tub with warm wate.r I then take 600 grit wet/dry sand paper and lay it across my fingers and gently cup the barrel in the paper. While keeping the paper wet, I run the drill and pass the paper back and forth the full length of the barrel. This takes it down to perfectly round. You only neeed to go until the seam is gone. I then finish with 2000 grit to polish it. The rechargable drill runs pretty slow and if you keep the paper wet, you don't have to worry about melting the barrel.HTH



Chief--appreciate the insight. I have to try that method. Did you get my PM? Do you want to swap for a non Brit Sherman? Apologize for failing to get back to you in a timely manner.
DJ
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