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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Thinner for oil paints
Phael_minis
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France
Joined: January 14, 2013
KitMaker: 208 posts
Armorama: 208 posts
Posted: Friday, October 04, 2013 - 08:26 PM UTC
I'm using vallejo acrylics, and the turpentine I use for oil paints seems to react with the acrylic base, stripping it away and making some unwanted chipping effects
What sot of thinner should I use to let the acrylic coat intact? I could try some others but someone here surely has found the solution!

Thanks
spoons
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: January 09, 2008
KitMaker: 527 posts
Armorama: 500 posts
Posted: Friday, October 04, 2013 - 09:51 PM UTC
Hi i found out recently white spirit will strip vallejo,so i used a polyurathane varnish like house hold matt varnish,it works brilliant acts as a nice tough shell you can even use a enamel wash on top of enamel base and the polyurathane protects it!would be nice if ak used a less HOT spirit in there washes.
Phael_minis
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France
Joined: January 14, 2013
KitMaker: 208 posts
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Posted: Friday, October 04, 2013 - 10:22 PM UTC
I'm using gloss varnish (vallejo) to protect, but if I miss a little part the punishment comes immédiatly...
easyco69
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: November 03, 2012
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Posted: Tuesday, October 15, 2013 - 02:34 AM UTC
Mineral Spirits. It's oil based. Has a distinct smell, oily. Sold as ordinary "paint thinner" in hardware stores. $3-5 1/2 gallon.
Use this to thin enamels & oil paints. Also used to create "washes" , both enamel & oil paint. Linseed oil [ obtain at any art supply store] is also added to oil paint mixture to help "break it up" better. Only need a small , amount.However , this leads to a shiny appearance. But...weathering will remove the shine.
Be advised, do not let sit on model too long , it will weaken the glue. It will also eat & destroy some plastics. So, if you use it, wipe it up right away.
I noticed "MIG" enamel washes are too dark, so I use mineral spirits to thin it out.
In my experience , LifeColor thinner is awesome thinning Vallejo acrylics for airbrushing. Lifecolor thinner + a tiny bit of water , use a fine tip. If brushing, use distilled bottle water to thin Vallejo.
If all else fails , use a protective barrier, future, lacquer dullcote etc...over your topcoat.
olfogey
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Nebraska, United States
Joined: October 06, 2013
KitMaker: 35 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, October 15, 2013 - 03:37 AM UTC
I use "Sansoder".........available @ "Hobby Lobby". It's mineral spirits, w/o the stink (lol) Jim J. -- "olfogey"
didgeboy
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Washington, United States
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, October 15, 2013 - 03:46 AM UTC
Odorless mineral spirits from your art supply store. If you have a college in your area the book stores usually sell art supplies on the cheap if you do not have a proper art store.
Grauwolf
#084
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: September 14, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, October 15, 2013 - 05:41 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I'm using vallejo acrylics, and the turpentine I use for oil paints seems to react with the acrylic base



Turpentine is way too strong....use mineral spirits or it is also called white spirits, instead.

Also mineral spirits evaporate much faster than turpentine.

If using oils from the tube, to mix a wash, squeeze out
some paint unto a piece of absorbent cardboard and let
sit for a few minutes to remove the linseed oil. Use the
pigment only and the mineral spirit to create the wash.

Linseed oil retards drying the oil paint and if it sits on the plastic too long may attack and/or damage the plastic or
the acryilc base coat.

Cheers,
Joe
olfogey
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Nebraska, United States
Joined: October 06, 2013
KitMaker: 35 posts
Armorama: 20 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 15, 2013 - 06:48 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I'm using vallejo acrylics, and the turpentine I use for oil paints seems to react with the acrylic base



Turpentine is way too strong....use mineral spirits or it is also called white spirits, instead.

Also mineral spirits evaporate much faster than turpentine.

If using oils from the tube, to mix a wash, squeeze out
some paint unto a piece of absorbent cardboard and let
sit for a few minutes to remove the linseed oil. Use the
pigment only and the mineral spirit to create the wash.

Linseed oil retards drying the oil paint and if it sits on the plastic too long may attack and/or damage the plastic or
the acryilc base coat.

Cheers,
Joe



Thanks for the tip!!.........much appreciated.
Jim J. -- "olfogey"
Grauwolf
#084
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: September 14, 2005
KitMaker: 2,485 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, October 15, 2013 - 08:01 AM UTC
Correction


Quoted Text

Linseed oil retards drying the oil paint and if it sits on the plastic too long may attack and/or damage the plastic or the acryilc base coat.



Linseed oil is added to tube oil paint to actually harden it
as it dries.
So it may be reacting with the turepentine which slows down
the process and thus damaging the acrylic base coat and/or
the plastic.

Still remove it when you make a wash and use mineral or white
spirits to thin the washes.

Nomenclature: Mineral spirits (US)
White spirits(UK)

Cheers,
Joe
Phael_minis
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France
Joined: January 14, 2013
KitMaker: 208 posts
Armorama: 208 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 15, 2013 - 08:07 AM UTC
Thank you guys, I will use white spirit on my next model!
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