So I'm looking for something that I can undercoat a layer of paint/pigments in a carrier, and be able to wash it off similarly to the hairspray technique. The problem is I have no airbrush presently, so I need to hand brush the paint on, which would also dissolve the hairspray.

Does anyone have any ideas what I could use?

(I want to do a white-coat for a 1/72 vehicle: it's base coated with sand, and I would like to apply white pigments dissolved in Humbrol decal sol -or something like that-, which would be washed back. But Ive seen something online once where someone coated a crate with dark, rust colored pigments, then applied a second coat of color, which he washed back, making it look like as if the rust underneath was peeling the paint off.)

Thank you very much.

I'm going to be facing a similar challenge soon with my DAK Pz IV. I'm going to try clear coating the panzergrau, letting it dry for a day or two, then applying dark yellow coats and scrubbing, scratching with brushes and what not. I think you can get away with clear coating and then applying your pigments and removing as necessary. You might also want to give white poster paint a try. I've also read of people using Marmite/Vegemite and all sorts of other concoctions as a chipping medium. They all work on the same principle by acting as a barrier coat which then gets washed off. I would suggest practicing on a scrap kit or sheet of styrene first to get a feel for what works best.

Kimmo

I have seen rocksalt used in a feature I edited many moons ago and which looked to result in a pleasing finish.

Kosher salt works too, Just use a spray bottle and use it to spray some water on the model then sprinkle the salt on the model then let it dry then hit it with paint then when the paint dries take off the salt most will come right off by brushing it off

Hi Andras,

I've come close to replicating "hairspray" type chipping by brushpainting recently and am about to try the same thing, chipped whitwash over Dunkelgelb.

I've attached a couple of pics to show you the finished effect on a test fender, then a bonnet and barrel, all done with the technique. I used the process after testing on the whole body of my recently posted post apocalyptic car and I think it lokks ok (also check my blog for other pics).

My process basically was, prime / undercoat with an enamel rattlecan. I used this becuase it give a really solid base.

Seal with Lacuer based matt varnish.

Spray model with silicone spray (can so again no airbrush).

Brush on top coat. I use GW acrylics for all my painting but any acrylic should work. Keep it fairly thin too.

Let dry for an hour or so then remove with cotton buds (anything really). Moisten the bud with a little water and a tiny ammount of thinners (I use Tamiya X20A) if the paint is hard to get off. Work carefully because once its off its off!!!

Copy of things to watch out for .....

Seal your basecoat with Lacquer varnish. I use Testors, you could use any brand but it must be lacquer as this provide the seal against the waterbased top coats and barrier layer.

For your whitewash I would recomend using plain thinned acrylic white rather than anything else in a carrier. Any added solvents might ruin the barrier and/or the varnish sealant layer. I've included a wip pic of how I do my whitewash.

Brush painting the top layer will not get as good results as spraying on the acrylic top coat. I will look ok but not quite as good. I'd only use it on scruffy ie winter model or anything intended to have serious weat like my car. But ... I can;t afford an airbrush set up so I brush everything except my primer and varnish which are rattlecanned.

cheers
Brent

ps the barrel pic is a bit fuzzy I'll have to take another lol

Hello Brent,

This is some serious stuff you have there... Thank you. You really should write up an article about this in armorama.

I'll give it a try. (Not sure what the silicon spray is yet, and what it is used for, but I'll check.)

Thanks matey, the technique still needs some more testing and refinement, as I mentioned I'm going to try it for a worn whitewash soon so that'll be a milestone. I was in a hurry the first time and I really need better pictures ...

The Silicone spray is from work and we used it on the machinery, glide plates and packing tables. It's also great for "blacking" tires You should be able to pick up a similar product from any good Hardware or Motorparts store as I don't think the brand will matter.

Brent

I got impatient, and tried something else (I live in Compton and have no car -which means I have no means of leaving the place).

Anyhow



I used water mixable satin varnish for oil paintings; mixed with white pigments, brushed it on, and then after drying I removed parts with a wet brush. It actually turned out quite alright.

But I shall get that silicone spray.

Looks pretty good .........