Hi everyone.

I notice, when painting on vehicle tools, that the paint tends to glob up. I use Model Master enamels and Vallejo acrylics. My technique is to use a toothpick and apply tiny drops to the tool handles and spread the drops out. I hesitate to use a brush because of the size of the tools (1/35 scale). I have considered building the model and then going back and painting the tools yet wouldn't the tools have been on the vehicle before painting thus being painted over? I build German armor from WW2. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance. Happy Holidays.

Alex

Your issue is the toothpick. You can't control the amount of paint you put onto the part with it. Get a good OOO brush.

It depends on the crew and how much time they have to paint as to whether the tools will be removed or painted over. Most of the time they were removed and then reattached after painting.

You can paint them on the model after basecoating. If you do, it is best to slide a piece of paper between the tool and the model to keep from getting paint onto your painted model.

I prefer to paint them off the model and then add them with a little bit of superglue after the model is completely painted.

I was just about to purchase some new brushes. I will make sure to add a 000 to the list. Thanks for the help. Alex

Alex, are you a beginner?
I use Testors Model Master enamels exclusively. And I brush paint. I'm not sure where you came up with this crazy way of painting small parts but please, stop it.
Buy some high quality sable brushes in small sizes. when painting enamels, keep thinner open to thin your paints and maintain the same density as you go. It helps to actually clean your plastic parts before painting to get rid of any factory crap, grease, mold release, or fingerprints that could screw with your paint sticking right.
With a magnifying glass lamp, I can paint a 1/35 scale Colt 1911 .45 and get the brown grips, the parkerized grey metal, and even the darker magazine floorplate if it's a good model. With a brush and Testors' enamels.

^^Ditto.^^ The key is the good brush and consitentcy in your paint, as Gary points out.

I have been modeling off and on for about thirty years. I just started up about a year ago after taking fifteen years off. So, I guess I'm relearning everything. I read online that someone uses toothpicks for finer details yet, as I pointed out, it's not working. I clean the model before I paint. One thing I have been doing is brushing straight out of the bottle which may be another part of the problem. Thanks. Alex

Not trying to be harsh on you Alex, sorry if I came in too heavy..I do remember my "beginners' blues" and there were things I did to plastic scale models back in my early years I should probably be prosecuted for..because I, like everyone, started off knowing nothing. Some think I still know nothing, but I digress...
You can see endless examples of good brush painting results in the photo galleries belonging to the various members here. Mine have some things you might find useful too, and I have some feature articles published here on my M16 halftrack build and a platoon of US soldiers to go with it. Lots of small stuff brush painted in all that.
Buy quality brushes. The best you can afford. Cheap brushes are usually polyester or other synthetic which is horrible for painting enamels on small smooth plastic parts. I use sable brushes and I like the results, but expect to spend $10 for one brush.
Paint tools definitely OFF the vehicle. Attach them after the painting is all done and completely dry, then touch up any little mishaps around the tools. If you glue them with plastic cement, use thin cement and scrape off the paint where the surfaces mate so it will fuse the plastic together. This isn't so vital with CA glues but I actually find it a stronger bond if I make that smooth plastic on plastic too, but you can glue to the painted vehicle with CA.
Use a magnifying glass if needed. No shame there. I paint radios with a microscope. Practice. Practice. Paint some leftover parts. Extra parts. Learn how to use the brush, how the paint behaves. Learn on pieces you don't care about messing up and you don't need. Practice. Keep thinner open and handy to keep the paint flowing right....STIR the paint very well, especially flats, these tend to separate and need re-stirring if you take a long painting session.
These are my best advice, my .02..Good sable brushes, and practice.

Alex;
If you have a Michael's or Joannes near you go and get some good brushes. I recommend the Lowell Cornell series, they are easy to some by, rather inexpensive and hold up well. I keep a large supply on hand for all sorts of jobs. I probably have a half dozen of each of the smaller round and spotters (18/0, 10/0 etc). Find one with the protective sleeve sill attached to keep your tips sharp and check to find the best tip you can out of the group. A good brush will save endless hours of frustration.You can also find these online at various places including Amazon and ebay. These are NOT top of the line but they are good. Cheers.

You weren't harsh at all. The great thing about modeling today is the Internet. Unfortunately, not everything I learn on the Web works out for me. I live in Philadelphia and we have only one good hobby shop in town. Back when I was younger and was building, I had a great hobby shop where I could talk with the armor guy and get tips or bring stuff in with me and get pointers. I don't have the luxury of a car so trips to the hobby shop in my area are few and far between. I'm such a perfectionist (I began working with photo etch and sometimes, I will notice a part that may be off by a millimeter tops; it drives me up a wall). Thus, I want the tools to look as perfetct as possible. Thank you for the advice. It will be heeded. Alex

I don't have a Michael's all that close. I do have a Blick art store. I know their brushes can get expensive because I bought a few. There is a Michael's in Philaldelphia. It's a jaunt yet I will check them out.

I'm not sure I've got the right thrust of your question, but if you're going to brush paint I would suggest 50/50 paint/thinner and apply multiple coats. Out of the tin the paint is way too thick for brushing.

Andy

I'm with the paint-tools-on-the-kit with well-pointed 000 brushes and paper or foil under tools on the kits when possible crowd.

Andy has it right - ALWAYS thin that stuff down when doing tiny brushes (which dry faster than larger brushes, and generally are taking longer at the task as you are carefully working away. WAY thin is OK - multiple thin coats with good drying between gets you the finish and variation you probably want. THICK gets you clumps and grainy blobs and poor finishes.

I find the easy thing to do with the enamel paints is to shake your bottle well, remove the cap and place it with its little bit of paint by your work point - I then cover the jar with a loose plastic cup or lid to prevent it drying any while I work. The paint in the cap gets a couple drops of clean fresh thinners and you can "micro-stir" right in that cap to get the paint-thinner mix you like. If the session lasts long, just add additional thinners as needed. Any left-over thinners won't harm the paint in the bottle when you replace the cap when done.

Cheers!

Bob

Bob.

Thank you for the great idea and help.

Have a wonderful Holiday Season.

Be well.

Alex