I am in the process of building Tamiyas M2 Bradley. I want to put it into a camo like this
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/208543&page=1&ord=0

The picture I am talking about is the second one, with the M2 that has no barrel. I want to know the best way to replicate that camo, and in what order i should lay down the colors.

That is standard 3-tone NATO camo. The colors are NATO Green, NATO Brown, and Flat Black. The colors I found best for them are Testors Model Master Medium Green, Field Drab, and Flat Black. If you prefer acrylic, Tamiya makes a NATO camo colors set that has all three colors included.

The best way to do it is to first paint the green overall. Next, either by freehand, or by making a mask using silly putty to cover the green areas, spray the brown, then do the same to spray the black.

As Gino says, paint the green. I like to hand brush the outlines of the black, then airbrush in. Do the same for the brown. That technique is easier given the weird angles and all the thing sticking out on the M2.

I have used the Life Color NATO set and found it very good.

HTH
Bret

Here are some templates that should help with the camo :

http://automotiveaccessories.tpub.com/TB-43-0209/TB-43-02090203.htm

http://automotiveaccessories.tpub.com/TB-43-0209/TB-43-02090204.htm

1= Black 2= Green 3= Brown

H.P.

I recommend using blue painter's tape to mask the pattern and airbrush Tamiya acryls. As others have said, start with green then brown then black.

If you've got good control with your airbrush, you can do it without any masking, although the Bradley could be a bit harder due to the odd shapes.

Here's my M109A2 with a similar camo pattern, which I did freehand with Tamiya paints thinned with lacquer thinner, low pressure, and patience.

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/217085&page=1

I also have another question. How can I best paint the road wheels? Until now I have been hand painting the rubber part of the whell, but that takes forever. Can anyone tell me how I can paint these things better and easier?

You can find circle templates at most department stores. Spray the rubber, first. Place the appropriate size circle over the rubber and spray the hub.

Looks like I'll need to go buy one of those. But now, there is another problem. Along the corners above the suspension, the long corner under the part that sticks out, where the body and bottom half meet, there is a line of small red flake like things, about a half a millimeter across. I have had this problem before, and I have tried the windex paint removal and that stuff, but it messed up the model, and it didn't take off the paint, as it was from a spraycan, and painting over the stuff just makes more of it. WHY IS THIS HAPPENING? Is there any way to prevent this?

I personally use Master Modelers enamel: Forest Green, Red Brown and Black.

I matched this colors to actual US Army vehicles back when I was still in the US Army. I will admit these matches are more unfaded.

I use oven cleaner to strip paint. However, this will destroy any bonds with non-plastic cement. Also, it does not completely strip lacquer. I put one kit through four sessions of stripping and the lacquer was barely touched.

Also, for shadowing the cracks and crevices on models, should i use semi gloss or flat black?