With both PT-76 and BTR-50 models to build, I wanted to replace the string towing cables with aftermarket ones. Then it occurred to me that why can't I just replace the string with suitable cable wire, since the hooks are perfectly OK? Anyone know what kind of wire to use for this?

Picture hanging wire works quite well as a replacement rope/high tensile cable. You can usually pick up a kit with a metre or so and a few hooks from a supermarket for less than $10.

Another possibility is to make your own by twisting wire together.

Well, you can use any wire you like. The key is to find something approximately the right diameter and second, find a wire rope (the correct name) that is twisted only. Many people use picture hanging wire rope and many times that stuff is _braided_ and not _twisted_. Real wire ropes are never braided so watch out for that.

There are several aftermarket companies that make "tow cable" for models and you can probably find something that works for you from them.

And finally, if you can't find anything you like from the AM guys, you can make your own by twisting together a suitable number of fine copper wires. If you go that route, anneal your wire before you use it and then again after it is wound into rope. It helps it form and reduced the spring to the rope when you go to use it. It also burns off any varnish that is frequently on copper wire so it will take paint better.

Paul

I carry Eureka XXL as well as the plain copper "wire rope"
on its own
http://www.thescenicfactory.com/category_s/1852.htm
- John

Last time my wife went to a bead store I followed and found something like this: http://www.polymerclay.com.au/beadalonjewellerycable-c-37_372.html
It comes in several diameters, and even though it's stainless steel and quite springy, after annealing, holds whatever shape you want to place it. Annealing also removes it's shineyness. A lot cheaper than buying foot long lengths for $10! (slight exaggeration)

So what is the method used to twist the wire to end up with a wire rope that looks like a tow cable ?

Hello,

Try to use this brand, RMG tow cables, they are very good, realistic and with a great price, heres a link,

http://rmgresinmodels.com/

I like to get the finest copper wire I can and then clamp enough of them in a vise so that when twisted they make the right diameter final product (this may take a couple of attempts to get as right as you want ti to be). One one end is clamped firmly, I get a set of vice grips or locking hemostats and gather and clamp the other ends. Once everything is clamped, twist away. Keep twisting until the rope is tight and as long as you need. If you want a really long rope, say longer than 8ish inches, you may have to do this in several stages. It can take a little fiddling to find the method that works best for you.

If you are going to do this a lot, I'd suggest a winding jig:
- Make up a disk of thick plastic (say 1/8") that's about 1" in dia but with spokes so that you can rotate it easily.
- drill a lot of holes through the disc in one or two diameter rings.
- Clamp one end of the bunch of wires as before
- feed the free end of the individual wires through the disc.
- clamp the far end as before
- With the one end clamped and fixed and the other end clamped but free to move axially and the disc placed in the middle of the length of wires, rotate the disc and the wires will both wind around themselves but also stay moderately organised, making two nice wire ropes (one on either side of the disc.


notes:
Keep some tension between the clamps in both methods to make for even tension and an evenly created rope.

The rope will get appreciably shorter than the length of wire you use, the resulting rope will possibly be only 1/2 or 1/3 of the starting length of the wires used, so take that into account especially when using method 2 as you can't move the disc once it's in place in the middle of the rope.

It would also seem possible to mount the disc at the movable clamp end of the rope and maybe feed out more wires to allow you to move the disc and the clamps to make a longer rope in stages, but I haven't done it m'self.

HTH

Paul

There are easier ways to make tow cables.

Get your wire together as suggested by Paul then clamp them in the vice and use a set of wire twisting pliers or a cordless drill on low speed to make all the tow cable you need, I've made a few feet at a time with my drill, just keep some tension on it as the drill turns.
You could even use a pin vice to hold the end, just as long as you can clamp your bundle of wires and turn em.

rats, Barry beat me to it.

Go to dump/transfer station and get old power cord from any discarded household current electrical appliance, older better than newer because the older ones have copper wire and newer ones may not.

strip the insulation off, pick a number of 'strands' , chuck into motor tool/cordless screwdriver. 2-3 ft lengths work well
HOLD ON TIGHT (dont want it whipping around)
keep under tension and twist away..

'free' cables

Never understood paying aftermarket $$ for tow cables unless they came with MUCH improved resin/white metal ends.

Mike

I can ditto the Eureka XXL cables, I used one for my LVT2 and plan to use them for my future builds. It holds whatever shape you bend it to, holds paint and the resin ends look spot on.

Double ditto. Eureka XXL cables hold the shape that you put them in -- a big plus! You can buy the cables separately w/o the resin ends for a few bucks US.

Mike and Barry,

Thanks for the tip! Stupid me never thought of actually putting the wire ends in a drill chuck! Excellent idea!

Paul

what is the best diameter or Gage of wire to use ?

to bad no US distributor

No US distributer for what?

Sorry RMG

There really is no "best" as the real things use differing gauges of wire and ocassionally use bundles of finer wire ropes twisted together in a "macro" rope. Generally, to get a good appearance, the finer the better. The stuff in phone lines, while good for grab handles, is too thick for making tow ropes.

Appliance cords that are made up of the really fine wire strands are what I like to use. I think you can get it at Home Depot and the like in the appliance/lighting fixture repair area.

HTH

Paul

Thanks

picture hanging wire... .025

One thng to watch out for with picture wire is that a lot of it is braided and not simply twisted and that provides for a very different look than the real thing.

Another thing with picture wire is that it is generally made of steel and is intrinsically stiffer than twisted copper. This can be good if you are trying to show a wire rope in tension as there will be few if any kinks in it, which illustrates the tension very well, however, for a wire rope that is not under tension, there are always a lot of small kinks and bends in it which are much harder to replicate in stiff steel wire than with soft copper that has been made even softer by annealing it after twisting.

No right or wrong, just things to consider when choosing a material.

Paul