I'm building Dragon's new Tiger 1 kit (#6700) and this is the first time I've dealt with DS track, or any rubber band style track for that matter, and I'm a bit unsure of how to proceed.

Dry fit:


I've read that two links should be cut off and it looks like there is enough slack here to justify doing so.

My main question is when to paint. Painting the track separately of course would be easiest, but I don't see how I'll get acceptable looking sag without at least gluing down the top run. For anyone who has used these type of tracks, what did you do?

Instead of gluing the tracks down have you ever considered using a string to tie the track down ? I'm sure you could tie it down and hide the string .

I've used them before and what I did was paint the basic color and put them on and glued them down with Tamiyas extra thin glue .. I make sure the paint comes off where I want them to glue stick and touch up after everything is dry .

Rick

They are a bit slack, but I would try removing only one link and then rechecking them. If another needs to go after that then go ahead and do it. You're in trouble if you take two links out and then find them too short.

I paint my tracks off the vehicle. I'll add them only after I'm done weathering the hull sides behind them. I use the super glue gel right on the paint and haven't had a problem yet after it cures out, unless I accidentally knock them loose.

CA Glue the top of the wheels then use paper wedges to hold the track down onto the wheels. I make wedges out of the kit box.

Mini;

Hi! I have used "DS" tracks but one time - on a Dragon Sherman kit. As the Shermie had "live tracks" and there was no sag involved, the DS things were acceptable. I painted the belt as an oval off the build, mounted the painted belts, and touched-up and weathered the tracks where a little paint got knocked off during the handling and fitting.

I guess I will never ever try them out on a Tiger (or on perhaps any other German build where sag is needed) - I don't like even the thought of DS for these builds.

That said; IF I needed to go with the DS, I would paint all the road gear and assemble it on the tank, dry-fit the DS track to see if I need to trim a link off to get my desired tension (or looseness...), remove and separately paint the tracks as loops, fit the painted loops on, use a little CA to fasten sagged portions onto tops of road-gear, and do the needed touch-ups and weathering.

Bob

Why don't you try the technique with hot water forming for the sag? There should be template for tracks in the kit. Look at that tread, scroll down a bit, everything is explained

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/131182&ord=&page=6

Cheers!

Did you glue the idler wheels yet? Because they are the tension-adjusting mechanism on a Tiger.

David

Thanks to all for the replies.

Edmund- I have heard of people using stiff wire to form sag but never string.

PanzerBob- I'd prefer indy links, and on any earlier German vehicle there's enough sag to justify buying some aftermarket tracks but here I think I can probably make it work. We'll see though.

Venelin- I hadn't seen that thread before, thanks. I think I will try that.

David- Nothing is cemented at this point except the torsion bars. Everything else is just fixed in place with a bit of white glue while I test the track fit. Question about the idler tension adjustments- on the real vehicle, any adjustment is applied to both sides equally, or can they be adjusted separately?

As for painting I think I'm leaning towards basic painting off the vehicle and then touch-ups as needed once the track is glued down.

To me it's easier to use string , it will absorb paint and the knots will not be bulky , I believe it is easier to conceal the string

The two idlers are independently adjustable.

David

I built the Tiger I with zimm,and it was state to remove 2 links from the DS Tracks,after which it fit perfectly

My advice--get Friuls.

But the later Tigers had a smaller idler wheel. That's worth 1 link.

David

I may have jumped the gun then, I cut two links off one of the runs. I think I'll cut just one off of the other and then see how each fits. Worst case scenario, the tank will drive through some mud. Either way it'll be a learning experience.

As for fruils, I'd love to be able to afford them, they look very nice. My budget is tight enough that I'd rather put the money towards my next kit or use it to grow my reference library.

Buy Fruils off ebay, from Poland, much cheaper. I love the metal tracks but you need a lot of patience.

I do appreciate that Friuls are pricey, although not much more pricey than modelkasten or other aftermarket tracks.
As someone suggested, they can be had from ebay merchants in Poland for less exorbitant prices that one finds (I have seen them listed for $55-60.00). Pacific Coast Models also carries them at a good price, but they are closing them out.
What I do is buy several sets from ebay seller sk1968sk. He has them for about 32.00 a pair plus 12 shipping. If however I buy several, combined shipping drops the overall cost to well below 40.00 a pair.
Others I have collected over the years at a discount on websites like this. Now that I think of it, many of the sets I bought before the price hike, so I was paying under 35.00 a pair. But I digress.
Some--or, perhaps more aptly put, very few-- people are able to make these single tracks look very convincing. But from what I gather it is one of the most daunting chores to be had in this demanding hobby. And that is up against some pretty stiff competition. It is very difficult to achieve the proper sag that comes from catenary action. Painting and finishing the tracks to achieve the results used with blacken-it is also difficult but not merely as difficult as making them realistic.
I will say that I have a set of ace spades tracks for a Saurer kit I may never build. The thing about that is that the pics I have seen do not show much sag at all, making it a candidate well suited for these types of tracks, but sadly the kit comes with single link tracks from a sprue. The idea of cutting, cleaning up with file and sanding stick 200 track links is not appealing.
Anyway, I figure the time, sweat and often even blood I expend in my efforts make friuls worthwhile. The finish achieved with blacken it and subsequent stains with washes is unparalleled. And I like the durability they provide.
Anyway, please understand that I am not trying to be smart or provocative. I am merely offering what I honestly think is the BEST solution to your problem: chucking the single piece tracks and getting Friuls. I hope there are no misunderstandings. Whatever you decide I am sure your project will be quite satisfying. I love Tigers, and like to think they like me too!

Not nearly as much patience as with, for example, model kasten tracks. I cannot imaging cutting and cleaning up--that is filing, sanding, filling sink holes--about two hundred individual track links.
I find installign the track links fun and relaxing, sometjhing to do while listening to the radio or a podcast.

Update! It's been a while, but I've now got the track firmly (I hope) attached.



I used a gel type superglue and sanded down to bare plastic on the sprocket and wheels, but not on the track itself (which was painted before gluing) so hopefully it'll stick. I think the sag looks pretty good, but not perfect. Overall I'm pleased with the result.