Hi,
I'm in the process of finishing this model...
...but I wanted to add some diesel fuel stains around the two filler caps above.
I'd like it nice & dirty so as to show continued spillage (ie: fresh stains over older ones)!
Could you tell me some techniques to apply this weathering step, please?
Thanks. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Joe.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Diesel Fuel Stains- Application Techniques?
joegrafton
United Kingdom
Joined: October 04, 2009
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Joined: October 04, 2009
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Posted: Friday, March 21, 2014 - 12:27 AM UTC
MadModeler
Nova Scotia, Canada
Joined: July 26, 2012
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Joined: July 26, 2012
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Posted: Friday, March 21, 2014 - 12:48 AM UTC
Invest in some AK Interactive Fuel Stains.
http://www.creativemodels.net/product_info.php/products_id/22430
Nice camo net, by the way.
Cheers,
Tom
http://www.creativemodels.net/product_info.php/products_id/22430
Nice camo net, by the way.
Cheers,
Tom
barny
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: August 03, 2005
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Joined: August 03, 2005
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Posted: Friday, March 21, 2014 - 12:49 AM UTC
Hello Joe have been following this mate and it's stunning .all these land rovers were petrol not the diesel ...have a google on fuel stains
Terry
Terry
MadModeler
Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted: Friday, March 21, 2014 - 12:53 AM UTC
For the AK stuff, just dab a bit on the area where you want to start the stain. Let it set for a few. Then take a soft brush and with white sprits, stumb downwards the dots. Repeat if needed.
joegrafton
United Kingdom
Joined: October 04, 2009
KitMaker: 1,209 posts
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Joined: October 04, 2009
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Posted: Friday, March 21, 2014 - 01:02 AM UTC
Hi fellas,
Well, Terry, you learn something new every day, don't you?!
I really didn't know they were petrol engines. I'm amazed at that.
Okay, then, it's not diesel fuel stains, it's petrol fuel stains I'm after!
Same method, I guess. Same product? If so, then I have some of that AK Fuel Stains in my stash!
Joe.
PS Thanks for your kind words about the model Terry. Really appreciated!
Well, Terry, you learn something new every day, don't you?!
I really didn't know they were petrol engines. I'm amazed at that.
Okay, then, it's not diesel fuel stains, it's petrol fuel stains I'm after!
Same method, I guess. Same product? If so, then I have some of that AK Fuel Stains in my stash!
Joe.
PS Thanks for your kind words about the model Terry. Really appreciated!
SdAufKla
South Carolina, United States
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
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Posted: Friday, March 21, 2014 - 01:44 AM UTC
I think that one of the subtle details that a lot of guys overlook with fuel stains is that the dirt and drying fuel accumulates around the edges of the stains and the centers are often washed clean (or cleaner) by the freshest spilt fuel.
The outer edges of the stains are often colored a dark shade of the earth tones that the vehicle is weathered in along with brighter edges of dried fuel-dust lines.
Freshly spilt fuel washes the last dust and dirt from the center to the edges of the stained area leaving the very center clean once again and showing the base color (which is slightly darkened by the oily residue of the dried, freshly spilt fuel).
IMO, most modelers paint on fuel stains entirely too uniform in color, and the ones that are still glossy "wet" looking are suitable only for fuel that's actually still running across the surface.
FWIW, I use artist oil paint washes to make fuel stains because they give more control to fade or highlight the edges and centers. Also, multiple layers of slightly varying colors using darkened shades of the same earth tones used for the weathering.
The outer edges of the stains are often colored a dark shade of the earth tones that the vehicle is weathered in along with brighter edges of dried fuel-dust lines.
Freshly spilt fuel washes the last dust and dirt from the center to the edges of the stained area leaving the very center clean once again and showing the base color (which is slightly darkened by the oily residue of the dried, freshly spilt fuel).
IMO, most modelers paint on fuel stains entirely too uniform in color, and the ones that are still glossy "wet" looking are suitable only for fuel that's actually still running across the surface.
FWIW, I use artist oil paint washes to make fuel stains because they give more control to fade or highlight the edges and centers. Also, multiple layers of slightly varying colors using darkened shades of the same earth tones used for the weathering.
barny
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 273 posts
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Joined: August 03, 2005
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Posted: Friday, March 21, 2014 - 02:51 AM UTC
It's worth remembering that petrol and diesel are slightly different in the way they mark vehicles ,diesel is more sticky really is the best way to put it....
Posted: Friday, March 21, 2014 - 09:24 AM UTC
Indeed. Gasoline stains in a dry matte way and will wash away the nearby dust as we sais, but not really accumulate more dust as it dries pretty quickly to an actually dry surface.
Diesel stays sticky (and thus somewhat glossy) and attracts dust until the next time the RSM tells you to wash your vehicle.
Paul
Diesel stays sticky (and thus somewhat glossy) and attracts dust until the next time the RSM tells you to wash your vehicle.
Paul
joegrafton
United Kingdom
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Posted: Saturday, March 22, 2014 - 03:41 AM UTC
Okay, thanks fellas, for your replies.
So, just to confirm I have this right. Should this step be made before or after the pigments have been applied?
And as petrol dries to a matte finish then I guess I should use a slightly darker tone of the green base colour on the model as opposed to any AK Fuel Stain mixture or something similar, right?
Thanks again.
Joe.
So, just to confirm I have this right. Should this step be made before or after the pigments have been applied?
And as petrol dries to a matte finish then I guess I should use a slightly darker tone of the green base colour on the model as opposed to any AK Fuel Stain mixture or something similar, right?
Thanks again.
Joe.
SdAufKla
South Carolina, United States
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
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Joined: May 07, 2010
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Posted: Saturday, March 22, 2014 - 05:01 AM UTC
I can only speak for myself, but I usually apply any fuel, oil and or water stains at the same time as I do other pin-washes for weathering and before I spray any dust glazes. I usually make the contrast between the center, more or less, clean area of the spill with the edges of the spill and don't worry overmuch about how the center may contrast with the rest of the just dusty areas of the model.
I make all such spills overall matt unless I have some very specific final effect in mind. I try to convey any residual "dampness" through the use of color (generally darker tones contrasted with lighter tones gets that across). For darker "oily" tones of the base color, I use a Payne's gray or Indigo "filter" over the base color to darken it as much as I wish, usually fading this towards the "purer" base coat in the center with the "oiler" look to the sides and the edges in a darker tone of the weathering earth color with final dusty colored outside edges.
I do spills in layers usually starting with the outer light dusty colors (often white and raw umber), fading them to the center, followed by the darker earthy tones (more raw umber), again fading to the center, and finally by any oily colors (Payne's gray or indigo) faded to the center with the center close to the base color. This leaves more defined edges to the colors towards the outsides of each blending together towards the center with the center more or less clean looking.
For water spills (radiators, etc), I omit the oily grays and just go with earth tones.
Of course, the shape and direction of the spill flows in the direction of gravity which is not necessarily vertical down the sides but is also effected by the contours of the vehicle. Puddled areas on horizontal surfaces are done the same way with cleaner appearing center areas.
Usually, I apply any pigments after my final overspray of Dull Coat and just as I'm ready to put the model on the base. This prevents any damage to the pigment finishes from excessive handling. However, I don't often use pigments for creating an overall dusty look (unless I'm going for a very dusty, dirty look with almost opaque dusty areas maybe with very heavy streaking). For light overall dust, I usually use a glaze airbrushed on. I usually allow this to go over any spills (again, unless I have some other specific outcome in mind).
These are just my USUAL approaches, though, which I vary depending on my ultimate desired finished look.
Finally, this is just how I usually do it. Other techniques or sequences can probably be just as valid and effective.
I make all such spills overall matt unless I have some very specific final effect in mind. I try to convey any residual "dampness" through the use of color (generally darker tones contrasted with lighter tones gets that across). For darker "oily" tones of the base color, I use a Payne's gray or Indigo "filter" over the base color to darken it as much as I wish, usually fading this towards the "purer" base coat in the center with the "oiler" look to the sides and the edges in a darker tone of the weathering earth color with final dusty colored outside edges.
I do spills in layers usually starting with the outer light dusty colors (often white and raw umber), fading them to the center, followed by the darker earthy tones (more raw umber), again fading to the center, and finally by any oily colors (Payne's gray or indigo) faded to the center with the center close to the base color. This leaves more defined edges to the colors towards the outsides of each blending together towards the center with the center more or less clean looking.
For water spills (radiators, etc), I omit the oily grays and just go with earth tones.
Of course, the shape and direction of the spill flows in the direction of gravity which is not necessarily vertical down the sides but is also effected by the contours of the vehicle. Puddled areas on horizontal surfaces are done the same way with cleaner appearing center areas.
Usually, I apply any pigments after my final overspray of Dull Coat and just as I'm ready to put the model on the base. This prevents any damage to the pigment finishes from excessive handling. However, I don't often use pigments for creating an overall dusty look (unless I'm going for a very dusty, dirty look with almost opaque dusty areas maybe with very heavy streaking). For light overall dust, I usually use a glaze airbrushed on. I usually allow this to go over any spills (again, unless I have some other specific outcome in mind).
These are just my USUAL approaches, though, which I vary depending on my ultimate desired finished look.
Finally, this is just how I usually do it. Other techniques or sequences can probably be just as valid and effective.