Hello all,
I have recently started experimenting with the chalk pastel weathering technique and so far I am really pleased with the results. The problem is, I cannot figure out a good way to seal the model after weathering so the pastels don't smudge. I have tried spraying my test models with several brands of clear matte spray paint (both acrylic and lacquer) as well as Blair spray fix (a matte fixative used for charcoal or pastel drawings). In all cases, the clear coat completely obscures the pastel coat and leaves the model looking somewhat glossy. is there a coating out there that won't ruin a delicate weathering job and actually gives a matte finish?
Thanks for the help
Sam
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
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clear coat for pastels?
sdharris
United States
Joined: February 20, 2010
KitMaker: 31 posts
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Joined: February 20, 2010
KitMaker: 31 posts
Armorama: 10 posts
Posted: Monday, April 07, 2014 - 06:18 PM UTC
didgeboy
Washington, United States
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
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Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Posted: Monday, April 07, 2014 - 06:45 PM UTC
Pastel chalks should go on last thing and then don't touch it. There really is no good way that I have found to seal them without taking away the look they give.
SdAufKla
South Carolina, United States
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 08, 2014 - 04:37 AM UTC
I generally put all of my models on a base and do what Damon suggested which is put the pastels on last and leave them alone.
However, I have had some success using Testor's Dull Coat over pastels and dry pigments. The trick is to anticipate that the clear coat will blend much of the pastel effects away and to over-apply them. If you hit the sweet spot, you'll wind up with the effect you want protected by the Dull Coat. This works best with heavy pastel streaking and other heavier build-ups.
For overall dusty effects, I've had much better results with airbrushed dust "glazes" which are as durable as any other painted on finish.
Here's an example of dust and dirt applied with only paints, no pastels or pigments have been used so far:
When I get around to finishing this Ford GPA, I'll use some dry pigments and pastels, but then the model will be fixed to a base to protect it from any other handling.
Happy modeling!
However, I have had some success using Testor's Dull Coat over pastels and dry pigments. The trick is to anticipate that the clear coat will blend much of the pastel effects away and to over-apply them. If you hit the sweet spot, you'll wind up with the effect you want protected by the Dull Coat. This works best with heavy pastel streaking and other heavier build-ups.
For overall dusty effects, I've had much better results with airbrushed dust "glazes" which are as durable as any other painted on finish.
Here's an example of dust and dirt applied with only paints, no pastels or pigments have been used so far:
When I get around to finishing this Ford GPA, I'll use some dry pigments and pastels, but then the model will be fixed to a base to protect it from any other handling.
Happy modeling!
DaGreatQueeg
Napier, New Zealand
Joined: August 01, 2005
KitMaker: 1,049 posts
Armorama: 841 posts
Joined: August 01, 2005
KitMaker: 1,049 posts
Armorama: 841 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 08, 2014 - 07:20 AM UTC
Hi Sam,
Almost all the models I finish are used for wargaming and included commissions which have to stand up to postage and handling on teh gaming table. As such I always apply matt varnish, usually in several steps.
The trick is as Mike alluded to is to apply it in light and thin coats. Generally I apply pigments and then a light mist coat of varnish (I use Testors Dull coat exclusively). Wait for this to dry off, about 10mins, then apply another light mist coat. Sometimes I apply another light touch up application of pigment and mist coat the varnich again. I treat pigments the same way as paint, multiple layers of less = more as it's easier to add more if required than it is to scrub it off and start again.
Again as already mentioned if your models are displayed in a cabinet and/or diorama based there is probably no need to varnish and this allows more control in the final look of the pigments.
Attached an M10 recently completely which has been matt varnished and is durable enough to handle on the wargaming table .....
cheers
Brent
Almost all the models I finish are used for wargaming and included commissions which have to stand up to postage and handling on teh gaming table. As such I always apply matt varnish, usually in several steps.
The trick is as Mike alluded to is to apply it in light and thin coats. Generally I apply pigments and then a light mist coat of varnish (I use Testors Dull coat exclusively). Wait for this to dry off, about 10mins, then apply another light mist coat. Sometimes I apply another light touch up application of pigment and mist coat the varnich again. I treat pigments the same way as paint, multiple layers of less = more as it's easier to add more if required than it is to scrub it off and start again.
Again as already mentioned if your models are displayed in a cabinet and/or diorama based there is probably no need to varnish and this allows more control in the final look of the pigments.
Attached an M10 recently completely which has been matt varnished and is durable enough to handle on the wargaming table .....
cheers
Brent
sdharris
United States
Joined: February 20, 2010
KitMaker: 31 posts
Armorama: 10 posts
Joined: February 20, 2010
KitMaker: 31 posts
Armorama: 10 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 08, 2014 - 01:39 PM UTC
Thanks! I appreciate the advice