kan iemand mij uitleggen hoe ik moet washen en wat ik daar voornodig heb?
merc.
is there somebody how can tell my the wash-proces and the tools I need ???
Hosted by Darren Baker
wash-proces
strangeWar
Oost-Vlaanderen, Belgium
Joined: December 20, 2003
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Joined: December 20, 2003
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Posted: Monday, December 22, 2003 - 05:18 AM UTC
Easy_Co
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: September 11, 2002
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Posted: Monday, December 22, 2003 - 08:59 AM UTC
Hi strangewar. Washing is the application of thinned paint brushed onto your model to cause shadows and also change base colours.im not a expert but here goes,your wash is made up of your base colour say olive drab,most modellers use Enamels or oil paints to do their washes acrilyics do not make good washes.to the base colour add some black to darken it then add about sevety five percent thinners so you end up with coloured thinners, now you brush this onto your model using a broad brush try to get the wash into all the nooks and crannies to give depth to these areas,the wash will also darken your base colour I think it looks more like a real vehicle now ,gives it a dirty used look. many modellers use various colours of washes to get different results leave the model to dry over night then you can do some dry brushing to bring out the highlights. i hope this helps Im no expert and Im sure others will give better answers but that is a rough idea of the wash,explore the site lots of posts on washes and drybrushing (weathering) all the best. :-)
HellaYella
United States
Joined: August 27, 2003
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Posted: Thursday, December 25, 2003 - 11:56 PM UTC
so if I have a hanomag in WWII D-day camo (dunkelgelb, brown, green) what color should I use to wash? but since it's handpainted, what do I do? Apply a spray gloss lacquer (tamiya) then add decals?? HElp
Jurgen
Limburg, Belgium
Joined: October 29, 2003
KitMaker: 651 posts
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Joined: October 29, 2003
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Posted: Friday, December 26, 2003 - 02:05 AM UTC
I'm no expert on the washing (my models keep getting stuck after painting...) and also not WWII. But put on a gloss before you wash, the gloss will make the wash "stick" better to the model... putting on decals before putting on the gloss, will make the decals less shiney... (this one I know by experience... , I'd put on my decals afterwards and they were all shiney... )
Hope this helps..
Probably some guys here can tell you a whole lot better...try searching for; washing. Loads of posting on this subject...
Jurgen
Hope this helps..
Probably some guys here can tell you a whole lot better...try searching for; washing. Loads of posting on this subject...
Jurgen
Easy_Co
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: September 11, 2002
KitMaker: 1,933 posts
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Joined: September 11, 2002
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Posted: Friday, December 26, 2003 - 07:24 AM UTC
hella Yella, Remember that the wash is to cause shadows in recceses and grill work etc if i do a triple scheme i use only the yellow but really darkened, if you put the wash over the whole model you will tone down the colours giving it a used look. lot of the guys here use a gloss varnish before they wash. it helps the wash flow better, when the washing and dry brushing is finished and dry then you can use a matt varnish to finish off. Try getting a copy of Shep Paines book building Military Models its brilliant ive had a copy for years now and I still refer to it, also check out the features and back posts on this site there is a wealth of knowledge and experience there. any way hope this helps. remember the site motto "if you dont know,ask" (:-)
GSPatton
California, United States
Joined: September 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,411 posts
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Joined: September 04, 2002
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Posted: Friday, December 26, 2003 - 08:57 AM UTC
Don't let wash scare you. Not really that hard, BUT remember less is MORE!
I use isopropyl alcohol (not rubbing) to which I add india ink (black) until I get a tinted mixture. One the model's paint if dry is add acrylic paints (Model Masters) to the alcohol. This thins the pigment and aids flow. Typically I use burnt umber for the wash.
On light colored vehicles - desert warfare, winter or yellow based camo - the above will be too dark.. For these vehicles I use the tinted alcohol and the base color giving me a dark base to which I add to the nooks and crannies.
Once the was is dry - go over the vehicle with a dry brushing of dust/contrast and there you be.
OK? Now go to it.
I use isopropyl alcohol (not rubbing) to which I add india ink (black) until I get a tinted mixture. One the model's paint if dry is add acrylic paints (Model Masters) to the alcohol. This thins the pigment and aids flow. Typically I use burnt umber for the wash.
On light colored vehicles - desert warfare, winter or yellow based camo - the above will be too dark.. For these vehicles I use the tinted alcohol and the base color giving me a dark base to which I add to the nooks and crannies.
Once the was is dry - go over the vehicle with a dry brushing of dust/contrast and there you be.
OK? Now go to it.
Bomberman
Gauteng, South Africa
Joined: August 24, 2003
KitMaker: 84 posts
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Joined: August 24, 2003
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Posted: Friday, December 26, 2003 - 12:06 PM UTC
Hi,
Since I paint my models with oils and enamels, I make up an acrylic wash. The acrylic wash doesn't lift the paint as a wash containg thinners or turps would. I like to use burnt umber and add a little bit of dishwashing liquid to help break the surface tension of the model. It makes it easier for the wash to flow into all the nooks and crannies. Otherwise I coat the whole model with future ( which is acrylic ) and then mix a wash with pure turps. It takes longer to dry though than the acrylic wash.
I hope it helps.
Since I paint my models with oils and enamels, I make up an acrylic wash. The acrylic wash doesn't lift the paint as a wash containg thinners or turps would. I like to use burnt umber and add a little bit of dishwashing liquid to help break the surface tension of the model. It makes it easier for the wash to flow into all the nooks and crannies. Otherwise I coat the whole model with future ( which is acrylic ) and then mix a wash with pure turps. It takes longer to dry though than the acrylic wash.
I hope it helps.
HellaYella
United States
Joined: August 27, 2003
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Posted: Friday, December 26, 2003 - 10:41 PM UTC
ok so this is the plan...
1) apply future to coat the model and let dry
2) since Dunkelgelb is base color (what color to I use to wash) and do I use water, 70% rubbing alcohol or solvent? and use what kinda brush and brushing motion?
3) after the wash what do I do? I know how to drybrush, but how would u use drybrushing in several color schemes (dunkelgelb, rottbrown, olivegrun..??)
1) apply future to coat the model and let dry
2) since Dunkelgelb is base color (what color to I use to wash) and do I use water, 70% rubbing alcohol or solvent? and use what kinda brush and brushing motion?
3) after the wash what do I do? I know how to drybrush, but how would u use drybrushing in several color schemes (dunkelgelb, rottbrown, olivegrun..??)
Easy_Co
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: September 11, 2002
KitMaker: 1,933 posts
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Joined: September 11, 2002
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Posted: Saturday, December 27, 2003 - 07:08 AM UTC
If your base coat is acylic use enamels or oils for your wash thin it with turps or white spirit,if the base is enamels use acrylics to wash alchol or tamyia thinners would be best but you can use water.Re base coat colour, on german yellow i use a very darkened version or even a light to mid brown, dont worry about the triple camo scheme the wash wont change the colour that much in fact it will proberbly improve the tone. use a wide artists brush let the wash flow over the flat surfaces but you may need to jab it into the more awkward places, if you think there is to much wash on a certain area just wipe it off with a tissue,when your happy with the result leave it to dry overnight at least ,also very important ensure your base and camo colours are completely dry before you apply any washes or the thinners may lift them I leave it for forty eight hours at least. re dry brushing triple camo, heres where your patience as a modeller comes in, you will need to use lightened versions of each colour but as you get towards the finish the colour is just an off white anyway it depends on how much drybrushing you wish to do,some modellers if they think the dry brushing is to bright they add a wash to tone it down a bit. Hope I havent confused you good luck. :-)
strangeWar
Oost-Vlaanderen, Belgium
Joined: December 20, 2003
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Joined: December 20, 2003
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Posted: Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 04:53 AM UTC
thank all
I hope to get good info out this
I hope to get good info out this