I need a substitute for enamel paint thinner. I tried denatured alcohol but it wouldn't congeal with the black paint I was using. Instead it basically just floated on it. I the. Mixed it with metallizer thinner and all this did was make the paint particles congeal leaving the denatured alcohol and metallizer thinner separate from the paint particles. I'm unable to buy any actual thinner right now due to financial restraints so I need a substitute... Is there anything I can use that could be readily available in a normal sustained household environment?
-Mikeybugs
Ps.. Wow I used a lot of unnecessary words in that last sentence....
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Substitute for enamel thinner
MikeyBugs95
New York, United States
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Posted: Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 11:19 AM UTC
NormSon
North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 11:38 AM UTC
You're trying to do a very bad thing. You will make a mess and ruin your model and waste a lot of incompatible materials. Enamels work best with enamel thinner, though some folks use a little bit (NOT VERY MUCH) of lacquer thinner to make it dry faster.
If you had acrylics (and depending on the brand), you might be able to use alcohol, water, or window cleaner, as well as the manufacturers thinner.
If you have already tried to mix the enamel with the materials you listed, throw it away. You will not be able to use it for anything, except to maybe start a fire.
Not trying to be short, just very realistic.
If you had acrylics (and depending on the brand), you might be able to use alcohol, water, or window cleaner, as well as the manufacturers thinner.
If you have already tried to mix the enamel with the materials you listed, throw it away. You will not be able to use it for anything, except to maybe start a fire.
Not trying to be short, just very realistic.
emalewitz
Texas, United States
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Posted: Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 11:52 AM UTC
There are 3 kinds of paint commonly used in modeling.
1. Enamels, like the old Testors and newer Humbrol and Model Master enamels. They cure by internal oxidation plus evaporation of their volatile solvents. And those solvents are Paint Thinner of Mineral Spirits. Don't use anything else.
2. Lacquers, like Floquil or Krylon. Not used much on plastic modeling since the solvent, lacquer thinner, contains acetone, which dissolves plastic and can make a mess of plastic if applied too heavily.
3. Acrylics. Like the latex acrylic house paint on your walls. Benign stuff. Thinner is alchlol/distilled water and maybe a touch of a retarder. The best brush cleaner I've found is Windex with a little extra non-sudsing ammonia added. That breaks the acrylic chemical bonds. But don't use Windex as a thinner since the ammonia damages the paint.
1. Enamels, like the old Testors and newer Humbrol and Model Master enamels. They cure by internal oxidation plus evaporation of their volatile solvents. And those solvents are Paint Thinner of Mineral Spirits. Don't use anything else.
2. Lacquers, like Floquil or Krylon. Not used much on plastic modeling since the solvent, lacquer thinner, contains acetone, which dissolves plastic and can make a mess of plastic if applied too heavily.
3. Acrylics. Like the latex acrylic house paint on your walls. Benign stuff. Thinner is alchlol/distilled water and maybe a touch of a retarder. The best brush cleaner I've found is Windex with a little extra non-sudsing ammonia added. That breaks the acrylic chemical bonds. But don't use Windex as a thinner since the ammonia damages the paint.
Kevlar06
Washington, United States
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Posted: Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 12:10 PM UTC
Mike,
For plastic modeling purposes, you can use turpentine, mineral spirits, paint thinner, or lacquer thinner available at Lowes or Home Depot to thin most hobby enamel paints. However, each type of thinner may have some residual effect, Turpentine and mineral spirits tend to slow the drying process and add a sheen to the paint. Lacquer thinner will flatten gloss paints. I use Testors Model Master enamels and Humbrol, and thin them with lacquer thinner for airbrushing, and paint thinner for hand brushing. You can also thin Tamiya and Mr. Hobby acrylic lacquers with lacquer thinner (for airbrushing). I buy my thinners by the gallon at Lowes or Home Depot, you can get a gallon for about $10-$16. Lacquer thinner for airbrushing paints will work fine if you use light coats, however, I don't recommend it for repeated coats when hand brushing. I also don't recommend mixing the thinners. If I mix paints with lacquer thinner, I keep them separate from paints mixed with paint thinner, turpentine or mineral spirits. I haven't purchased any model paint thinner from a hobby paint manufacturer in ten years, a gallon of thinner will last you a long time.
Very Respectfully, Russ
For plastic modeling purposes, you can use turpentine, mineral spirits, paint thinner, or lacquer thinner available at Lowes or Home Depot to thin most hobby enamel paints. However, each type of thinner may have some residual effect, Turpentine and mineral spirits tend to slow the drying process and add a sheen to the paint. Lacquer thinner will flatten gloss paints. I use Testors Model Master enamels and Humbrol, and thin them with lacquer thinner for airbrushing, and paint thinner for hand brushing. You can also thin Tamiya and Mr. Hobby acrylic lacquers with lacquer thinner (for airbrushing). I buy my thinners by the gallon at Lowes or Home Depot, you can get a gallon for about $10-$16. Lacquer thinner for airbrushing paints will work fine if you use light coats, however, I don't recommend it for repeated coats when hand brushing. I also don't recommend mixing the thinners. If I mix paints with lacquer thinner, I keep them separate from paints mixed with paint thinner, turpentine or mineral spirits. I haven't purchased any model paint thinner from a hobby paint manufacturer in ten years, a gallon of thinner will last you a long time.
Very Respectfully, Russ
chumpo
United States
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Posted: Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 02:04 PM UTC
In a pitch you could try gasoline or kerosene if you opt for kerosene make sure it's clear no colors white kerosene . But to be truthful it might be cheaper just to go to Home Depot and get paint thinner .
Posted: Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 05:08 PM UTC
What kind of paint are you trying to thin?
MikeyBugs95
New York, United States
Joined: May 27, 2013
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Posted: Thursday, April 17, 2014 - 06:03 PM UTC
Quoted Text
You're trying to do a very bad thing. You will make a mess and ruin your model and waste a lot of incompatible materials. Enamels work best with enamel thinner, though some folks use a little bit (NOT VERY MUCH) of lacquer thinner to make it dry faster.
If you had acrylics (and depending on the brand), you might be able to use alcohol, water, or window cleaner, as well as the manufacturers thinner.
If you have already tried to mix the enamel with the materials you listed, throw it away. You will not be able to use it for anything, except to maybe start a fire.
Not trying to be short, just very realistic.
That is EXACTLY why I didn't use it immediately on the model. I tested it out first while i mixing it to see if it would work. And I did put the mixture back in the bottle I was using to hold it (it was an empty, dried up paint bottle) and threw it out.
Quoted Text
What kind of paint are you trying to thin?
I'm trying to thin Testors Flat Black enamel paint so I could make a homemade black wash.... I have Tamiya Acrylic Flat Black as well but I figured I might as well use the enamels because I like them more.
MikeyBugs95
New York, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 21, 2014 - 04:55 AM UTC
Ok. So I took some mineral spirits and mixed it with my flat black enamel and I now have a useable black wash. Thanks guys.
jon_a_its
England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, April 21, 2014 - 06:08 AM UTC
Quoted Text
In a pitch you could try gasoline or kerosene if you opt for kerosene make sure it's clear no colors white kerosene . But to be truthful it might be cheaper just to go to Home Depot and get paint thinner .
Woah! Gasolene/Kerosene/petrol...
at best you will loose eyebrows, and your allowance FOR EVER! at worst lungs, your home or DEATH!
Gas is vapourised to burn it in an engine, in this state any heat, flame or spark will ignite..
As advised by the guys here, there are many suggestions, just some of then are life-limiting!
Try asking here, or google or you tube, about washes, again many options, & many many ways to achieve the effects you want!
chumpo
United States
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Posted: Monday, April 21, 2014 - 07:08 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextIn a pitch you could try gasoline or kerosene if you opt for kerosene make sure it's clear no colors white kerosene . But to be truthful it might be cheaper just to go to Home Depot and get paint thinner .
Woah! Gasolene/Kerosene/petrol...
at best you will loose eyebrows, and your allowance FOR EVER! at worst lungs, your home or DEATH!
Gas is vapourised to burn it in an engine, in this state any heat, flame or spark will ignite..
As advised by the guys here, there are many suggestions, just some of then are life-limiting!
Try asking here, or google or you tube, about washes, again many options, & many many ways to achieve the effects you want!
During the early part of WWII the German tanks were issued with tins of paste for the camouflage , it could be diluted with just about anything to make it spreadable , gasoline was the preferred thinning medium . Now were not talking about mass quantities of gasoline , maybe at most 1/3 of an oz at the most . You can get from a nozzle of a gas pump when they finish fueling your vehicle . Should be at no cost . Back in the days of the old army when the zippo lighter was standard issue they used gasoline to fuel them . Pull it out of the case and drip some gasoline into the cotton wad then put it back together . Wipe out the outside and it never blew up when the lighter was used to light those .25 cent packs of cigarets . I take you were never a GI Jon ?