I have a plan on building a diorama with a tiger tank.
i will build this tiger https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/32504tiger1/index.htm
i dont have a airbrush, and i would like the camo to look good do any of you know some good reading or some good tips to get a good result, the colour scheme should be the one to the left with camo(on the tamiya site)
Hosted by Darren Baker
camuflage without a airbrush
johanlind
Joined: April 24, 2014
KitMaker: 5 posts
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Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 04:41 AM UTC
miniflea
Joined: October 17, 2011
KitMaker: 237 posts
Armorama: 235 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 05:33 AM UTC
I don't own an airbrush so I do all my painting with rattle cans and brushes, which means that I have to stick to hard edge camo schemes. I do recall seeing someone post soft edge brush painted camo he'd done (on a Tiger 1 I believe) but the thread I saw did not explain how he achieved it. I guess with a lot of blending and possibly oil paints? At any rate something like that would be beyond my skill. I guess what I'm trying to say is, I would also like to know the answer to your question!
panzerbob01
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 06:10 AM UTC
Gents;
You CAN achieve pretty good "soft (feathered) - edge" camo using a brush. It's the only way I could get "sprayed-on patterns" on 1/72 aircraft and armor builds for years before ever I got the airbrush (of course, just to take a quick plug for the AB... GET ONE as soon as you can! You will love it! (and never go back...)).
Start by painting the pattern you want (so, "hard-edged"). After that is applied, use the same camo color but very well-thinned and work along the hard edges with a lightly-loaded soft brush stroking very lightly outward from the camo line / blotch. This will smear the color outward a little. Keep a light touch and short strokes and draw the camo color out thinner and thinner away from its original edge.
It's quite easy after a little practice. Works better with enamels but OK with very thin Tamiya acryl and very well with very thin Vallejo acryls.
Try it out on a test hulk or on the unseen bottom of your kit until you have the hang of it.
IF you are painting thinned enamel over enamel, you MUST let your base-coat dry and cure and keep the stroking to a very minimum, or you will end up scrubbing off your base-coat. For acryls, a dried, cured acryl base-coat should be robust enough for this. Of course, you can always be "tricky" and do the camo in acryl over an enamel base-coat (or vice-versa) and avoid much of this issue altogether...
Bob
You CAN achieve pretty good "soft (feathered) - edge" camo using a brush. It's the only way I could get "sprayed-on patterns" on 1/72 aircraft and armor builds for years before ever I got the airbrush (of course, just to take a quick plug for the AB... GET ONE as soon as you can! You will love it! (and never go back...)).
Start by painting the pattern you want (so, "hard-edged"). After that is applied, use the same camo color but very well-thinned and work along the hard edges with a lightly-loaded soft brush stroking very lightly outward from the camo line / blotch. This will smear the color outward a little. Keep a light touch and short strokes and draw the camo color out thinner and thinner away from its original edge.
It's quite easy after a little practice. Works better with enamels but OK with very thin Tamiya acryl and very well with very thin Vallejo acryls.
Try it out on a test hulk or on the unseen bottom of your kit until you have the hang of it.
IF you are painting thinned enamel over enamel, you MUST let your base-coat dry and cure and keep the stroking to a very minimum, or you will end up scrubbing off your base-coat. For acryls, a dried, cured acryl base-coat should be robust enough for this. Of course, you can always be "tricky" and do the camo in acryl over an enamel base-coat (or vice-versa) and avoid much of this issue altogether...
Bob
AFVFan
Joined: May 17, 2012
KitMaker: 1,980 posts
Armorama: 1,571 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 06:18 AM UTC
Have you tried doing a search of the "Paint" and "Techniques" forums? You may find your answer in one of them.
johanlind
Joined: April 24, 2014
KitMaker: 5 posts
Armorama: 5 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 06:24 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Gents;
You CAN achieve pretty good "soft (feathered) - edge" camo using a brush. It's the only way I could get "sprayed-on patterns" on 1/72 aircraft and armor builds for years before ever I got the airbrush (of course, just to take a quick plug for the AB... GET ONE as soon as you can! You will love it! (and never go back...)).
Start by painting the pattern you want (so, "hard-edged"). After that is applied, use the same camo color but very well-thinned and work along the hard edges with a lightly-loaded soft brush stroking very lightly outward from the camo line / blotch. This will smear the color outward a little. Keep a light touch and short strokes and draw the camo color out thinner and thinner away from its original edge.
It's quite easy after a little practice. Works better with enamels but OK with very thin Tamiya acryl and very well with very thin Vallejo acryls.
Try it out on a test hulk or on the unseen bottom of your kit until you have the hang of it.
IF you are painting thinned enamel over enamel, you MUST let your base-coat dry and cure and keep the stroking to a very minimum, or you will end up scrubbing off your base-coat. For acryls, a dried, cured acryl base-coat should be robust enough for this. Of course, you can always be "tricky" and do the camo in acryl over an enamel base-coat (or vice-versa) and avoid much of this issue altogether...
Bob
when you work the lines of the camo, is it while the "hardline" is still wet. you speak of well thined, how thin? as water or what, i will use acrylic paint for the tiger
miniflea
Joined: October 17, 2011
KitMaker: 237 posts
Armorama: 235 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 06:42 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Gents;
You CAN achieve pretty good "soft (feathered) - edge" camo using a brush. It's the only way I could get "sprayed-on patterns" on 1/72 aircraft and armor builds for years before ever I got the airbrush (of course, just to take a quick plug for the AB... GET ONE as soon as you can! You will love it! (and never go back...)).
Start by painting the pattern you want (so, "hard-edged"). After that is applied, use the same camo color but very well-thinned and work along the hard edges with a lightly-loaded soft brush stroking very lightly outward from the camo line / blotch. This will smear the color outward a little. Keep a light touch and short strokes and draw the camo color out thinner and thinner away from its original edge.
It's quite easy after a little practice. Works better with enamels but OK with very thin Tamiya acryl and very well with very thin Vallejo acryls.
Try it out on a test hulk or on the unseen bottom of your kit until you have the hang of it.
IF you are painting thinned enamel over enamel, you MUST let your base-coat dry and cure and keep the stroking to a very minimum, or you will end up scrubbing off your base-coat. For acryls, a dried, cured acryl base-coat should be robust enough for this. Of course, you can always be "tricky" and do the camo in acryl over an enamel base-coat (or vice-versa) and avoid much of this issue altogether...
Bob
Thanks for your reply, I will certainly try this sometime. And at some point I will buy an airbrush- I have gotten to the point where I feel my painting is hitting a wall without one. The reason I haven't yet is cost combined with living in a small apartment and not knowing where I'd set it up/noisy compressor, etc. All solvable problems of course that hopefully will soon be solved.
thebear
Joined: November 15, 2002
KitMaker: 3,960 posts
Armorama: 3,579 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 09:23 AM UTC
Quite a few years ago I was doing an RSO and it was a very humid day and my airbrush was really having a hard time ..
So being frustrated at trying to get things to work ,I gave up.. I just grabbed my Humbrol Redbrown paint and adecided to drybrush the camo scheme .. I actually got a very feathered look in the end .. I was quite pleased with it.. I wouldn't try this with acrylics but with enamels it worked out okay..
Rick
So being frustrated at trying to get things to work ,I gave up.. I just grabbed my Humbrol Redbrown paint and adecided to drybrush the camo scheme .. I actually got a very feathered look in the end .. I was quite pleased with it.. I wouldn't try this with acrylics but with enamels it worked out okay..
Rick
Thudius
Joined: October 22, 2012
KitMaker: 1,194 posts
Armorama: 1,077 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 10:36 AM UTC
I'm going to face the same problem sooner or later because I brush paint. There are wet on wet and other techniques that should work, it will require some experimentation though. I've thought about using small cosmetic sponges with thinned paint and lightly applying the outer edge of the camo. It might look messy, but after a clear coat, washes and weathering, it may not look half bad. Dry brushing might work too. Acrylics can be dry brushed, they're just not quite as forgiving as oils and enamels. Whatever approach you do take, be prepared to spend a lot of time and work with thin layers at first and build up. I think I sense a painting exercise in my not too distant future.
Kimmo
Kimmo
panzerbob01
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2014 - 01:55 PM UTC
The key is to go try out various techniques - dry-brush on dry, wet on dry, wet around wet, etc. Each route works in some cases.
GREAT example posted of that RSO! Looks pretty good to me, Richard! "Proof-positive" that one can make a brush job look like a sprayed-on scheme!
Again, just try stuff out. This where a dirty old test-hulk really SHINES!
Bob
GREAT example posted of that RSO! Looks pretty good to me, Richard! "Proof-positive" that one can make a brush job look like a sprayed-on scheme!
Again, just try stuff out. This where a dirty old test-hulk really SHINES!
Bob
johanlind
Joined: April 24, 2014
KitMaker: 5 posts
Armorama: 5 posts
Posted: Friday, April 25, 2014 - 02:52 AM UTC
Do you guys know any books or guides to painting camo, rust , oil etc
Homer0331
Joined: March 19, 2014
KitMaker: 148 posts
Armorama: 148 posts
Posted: Friday, April 25, 2014 - 03:42 AM UTC
tankmodeler
#417
Joined: March 01, 2004
KitMaker: 3,123 posts
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Posted: Friday, April 25, 2014 - 07:19 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I think I sense a painting exercise in my not too distant future.
I'd be sensing the purchase of an airbrush and compressor!
I use the oilless compressor I got for my nailgun at home or rather I have a nail gun I can use with my oilless airbrush compressor
Thudius
Joined: October 22, 2012
KitMaker: 1,194 posts
Armorama: 1,077 posts
Posted: Friday, April 25, 2014 - 08:02 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextI think I sense a painting exercise in my not too distant future.
I'd be sensing the purchase of an airbrush and compressor!
I use the oilless compressor I got for my nailgun at home or rather I have a nail gun I can use with my oilless airbrush compressor
Unfortunately no cash, and more importantly, no space to use/store them. My bench is half of the dinner table and whatever I'm working on goes in the box and gets tucked out of sight into whatever space is available after each session. Murphy's Law will dictate that as soon as I master brush techniques, I'll have space and the income to buy all these goodies.
Kimmo
johanlind
Joined: April 24, 2014
KitMaker: 5 posts
Armorama: 5 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 - 12:28 AM UTC
After a lot og reading a gør a couple og questions, when you paint with thinned black paint for contrast, do you wipe the excess off or just let it dry?
Can someone link to a tutorial in weathering (rust, chipping etc.) I think It seems to be complicated
How do you make mud?
Can someone link to a tutorial in weathering (rust, chipping etc.) I think It seems to be complicated
How do you make mud?
thebear
Joined: November 15, 2002
KitMaker: 3,960 posts
Armorama: 3,579 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 - 12:51 AM UTC
johanlind
Joined: April 24, 2014
KitMaker: 5 posts
Armorama: 5 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 - 01:29 AM UTC
Thx I will look into that :-)
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