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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Brush painting an armor
the_unborn
Joined: December 24, 2003
KitMaker: 126 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 24, 2003 - 02:24 AM UTC
Hello everybody, I am new here

And I already have some questions to ask you about brush painting.
I am using Revell enames. These are the only paints i can get here in Slovenia and I think they are pretty good paints...anyway...How much should I thin them, what would happen if I thinned them too much? I'm going to paint 1/35 tanks and don't want too thick layers of paint.
And what about pre-shading the model, is it even possible with brushes, I mean would that shadows be noticed through the upper layers of paint and camouflage?
I would also like to know how to blend the camo colors, cause they have too much contrast and aslo to show some weathering effect on the paint.
And now the last question I can think of now is how to make those worn edges on the hull and turret, dry-brusing with what color?
That's all for now
I'm loking forward to see your answers, bye.
Sidewinder05
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New York, United States
Joined: December 19, 2003
KitMaker: 16 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 24, 2003 - 03:15 AM UTC
I have read about painting the entire model with a brush, but have never attempted it-you are supposed to keep the brush wet at all times. When thinning for an airbrush, the main recomendation is to thin it to the consistency of milk-that should work well for brush painting. You'll definitly have a hard time getting the camo to blend with a brush since the paint isn't atomized like it is in an airbrush. I think that best advice if you're stuck brushpainting would be to parctice on some scrap plastic or on a really cheap kit if you can find one.
animal
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Joined: December 15, 2002
KitMaker: 4,503 posts
Armorama: 3,159 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 24, 2003 - 03:38 AM UTC
I have brush painted quite a few models. I thin the paint about 70% paint to 30% thinner. Don't try to cover everything in one coat. Keep the coats thin and even. Use the softest brush you can find. For wide areas use a flat wide brush and use thinner brushes as you get into tight areas. As far as cammo paint schemes go if the paint is thined about 50/50 and you put it on in light coats thinner on the outside edges and letting it get darker toward tohe center it will look pretty good. Of course it woun't look as good as a cammo job with an air brush but if you weather it in pastels it will be very close. For worn paint look you can dry brush with a base color that you lighten with some white or light gray and dry brush on the areas that you want to looked worn. I like to dry brush the entire model like this and follow with a mixture of Rustall/ blackwash. You can make a wash like this by using rust color and flat black thinned to almost a dark water. Depending on the vehicle (German, english, US etc) you can use a sharpened tooth pick and very lightly scratch the surface with the type of primer paint that that country used (flat red, gray, flat black etc).

I almost forgot Welcome to Armorama!!
Maki
Staff MemberSenior Editor
ARMORAMA
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Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: February 13, 2002
KitMaker: 5,579 posts
Armorama: 2,988 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 24, 2003 - 04:06 AM UTC
Hello my neighbour...

I have never used an airbrush for painting vehicles... I just recently got Testors airbrush as a present but haven't tried it yet. Anyway, I painted my models with brush exclusively. I use Humbrol enamels (BTW, I think they are of a bit better quality enamels than Revells) and thin them just enough to let the paint flow easily from the brush; I never bother with ratios, just look at the consistency of paint and try it on a scrap piece of plastic before you start painting the model itself. In my oppinion it is better to apply several thin layers of paint than one thick and heavy layer. Preshading is usually done with an airbrush and I don't think you could achieve good results with a brush... However, you can do washes or even a filter technique (you can red about those on Missing Lynx, under Rarities articles) with a brush and they give great results. With the filter you can blend borders between two camo colors and give worn look to the vehicle. I've tried it, it could be a bit frustrating at first, but it is worth the effort.

If you need more details let me know,

Sretan Bozic,
Mario M.
HellaYella
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United States
Joined: August 27, 2003
KitMaker: 109 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 28, 2003 - 09:31 PM UTC
so let's just say that a vehicle was handpainted by acrylic flats and needs to be weathered...

so

1) do u brush Future on flat parts that need decals and brush Future on it again

2) after that is done, how do I seal the model if I don't have a AB, do I just brush thinly Future?

3) after Future is done, then I weather (BTW what color of wash should I use for German D-day camo ???)

4) after wash, do I spray on flat clear (like Tamiya flat clear lacquer out of the can??)
Sidewinder05
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New York, United States
Joined: December 19, 2003
KitMaker: 16 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, December 29, 2003 - 03:24 AM UTC
I know of people that do model cars that put their Future on with a brush, and have gotten good results, since it's self leveling.
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