Hi, so if darker yellow was used from 1943 on, why some brands offer a more clears colors, almost white or interior buff.
Also, for the greens, like "reseda green".

Model Master Dark Yellow looks too green for me.

Any light ?

TIA

Matt

Seems today is my day for confusion!

Dunkelgelb RAL 7028 only came into service from 1943. While it did appear in several shades (and I favor that enamel done by ModelMaster), none should be considered appropriate for any German tank in 1939 - '42, or so I've been led to understand across many of these forums and in my researching of panzer colors.

There were, however, other similar colors (Gelbbraun, RAL 8000, Braun RAL 8020) in use from late 1941 on vehicles going to Africa for the DAK - and some such "tropen-colored" vehicles ended up in Italy and in southern Russia from 1942 (and possibly some of that paint, as well). But we shouldn't confuse these colors with "Dunkelgelb" RAL 7028.

Bob

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Matt

Seems today is my day for confusion!

Dunkelgelb RAL 7028 only came into service from 1943. While it did appear in several shades (and I favor that enamel done by ModelMaster), none should be considered appropriate for any German tank in 1939 - '42, or so I've been led to understand across many of these forums and in my researching of panzer colors.

There were, however, other similar colors (Gelbbraun, RAL 8000, Braun RAL 8020) in use from late 1941 on vehicles going to Africa for the DAK - and some such "tropen-colored" vehicles ended up in Italy and in southern Russia from 1942 (and possibly some of that paint, as well). But we shouldn't confuse these colors with "Dunkelgelb" RAL 7028.

Bob

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I disagree with this. The panzergrau was overpainted in a dark yellow, upon arrival in North Africa. Obviously, it did no exist prior to that, I think 41-43.

I have a question in reference to VAllejo's model air "Dark Yellow" Panzer Ocre. I purchase d a bottle to apply to my Jadgtiger but noticed that it had quite a greenish tint. I was wondering if this hue is correct to use as a base coat for the cammo scheme. Or should I use Tamiya's Dark Yellow instead? Thanks in advance,

Hermann.

Well heres my 2 cents worth. Use what you think looks best. If anyone gigs my model because they think it doesnt look like "dunkelgelb 41' or 43'" or whatever, thats their issue and I hope they lose sleep over it. With that being said I do know for a fact Tamiya Dark Yellow out of a rattle can is not the same as out of a bottle. My flak berge panther wheels are done by rattle can and they are much lighter than my hull and sideskirts airbrushed from the bottle which is a more olive in color. Who knew? Certainly not me. Both were filtered afterwards using Mig filter for Dark Yellow and there is still a difference. I hope pigments will tone the hull down, oh well live and learn

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Well heres my 2 cents worth. Use what you think looks best. If anyone gigs my model because they think it doesnt look like "dunkelgelb 41' or 43'" or whatever, thats their issue and I hope they lose sleep over it. With that being said I do know for a fact Tamiya Dark Yellow out of a rattle can is not the same as out of a bottle. My flak berge panther wheels are done by rattle can and they are much lighter than my hull and sideskirts airbrushed from the bottle which is a more olive in color. Who knew? Certainly not me. Both were filtered afterwards using Mig filter for Dark Yellow and there is still a difference. I hope pigments will tone the hull down, oh well live and learn

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And, I thought we were going for accuracy. They were not painted yellow at the factory. They were repainted upon arrival in north Africa.

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Well heres my 2 cents worth. Use what you think looks best. If anyone gigs my model because they think it doesnt look like "dunkelgelb 41' or 43'" or whatever, thats their issue and I hope they lose sleep over it. With that being said I do know for a fact Tamiya Dark Yellow out of a rattle can is not the same as out of a bottle. My flak berge panther wheels are done by rattle can and they are much lighter than my hull and sideskirts airbrushed from the bottle which is a more olive in color. Who knew? Certainly not me. Both were filtered afterwards using Mig filter for Dark Yellow and there is still a difference. I hope pigments will tone the hull down, oh well live and learn

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And, I thought we were going for accuracy. They were not painted yellow at the factory. They were repainted upon arrival in north Africa.

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Matt

Not all units were painted in the field in Africa, after the initial deployment vehicles where pre-painted Gelbbraun prior to being shipped to Africa.

Kevin

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Well heres my 2 cents worth. Use what you think looks best. If anyone gigs my model because they think it doesnt look like "dunkelgelb 41' or 43'" or whatever, thats their issue and I hope they lose sleep over it. With that being said I do know for a fact Tamiya Dark Yellow out of a rattle can is not the same as out of a bottle. My flak berge panther wheels are done by rattle can and they are much lighter than my hull and sideskirts airbrushed from the bottle which is a more olive in color. Who knew? Certainly not me. Both were filtered afterwards using Mig filter for Dark Yellow and there is still a difference. I hope pigments will tone the hull down, oh well live and learn

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And, I thought we were going for accuracy. They were not painted yellow at the factory. They were repainted upon arrival in north Africa.

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Matt

Not all units were painted in the field in Africa, after the initial deployment vehicles where pre-painted Gelbbraun prior to being shipped to Africa.

Kevin

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So what year are you looking for?

Accuracy is nice, but really, once we paint, decal, filter and weather, what does it matter? The real vehicles were painted and used and destroyed within months if not days.

The model is a snapshot, if you will, of the real vehicle at a certain point in time. Who's to say the model is accurate? Were we there? Do we have proof beyond a doubt?

This debate itself is proof we know less than we think.