Hosted by Darren Baker
Individual Track Links Problem
shonen_red
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
Armorama: 2,283 posts
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
Armorama: 2,283 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 24, 2003 - 06:15 PM UTC
I'm doing my Dragon M1A1HA with tank crew. I'm having problems attaching the treads especially on the curve ones. It moslty breaks out of position. Can anyone help me?
Fritz
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: March 17, 2003
KitMaker: 495 posts
Armorama: 140 posts
Joined: March 17, 2003
KitMaker: 495 posts
Armorama: 140 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 24, 2003 - 07:05 PM UTC
What glue are you using? are you using CA glue? if yes then it will definitely fall off. When doing Indy tracks, it is best to use plastic cement since it doesn't dry rock hard at once, it can be bent and adjusted to position while drying.
sgtreef
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 25, 2003 - 12:00 AM UTC
Shonen_Red after fighting thru the Maus links allways falling apart and using liquid glue I have come to one conclusion on the older Dragon links and that is they Suck!!!
Just keep trying I have ended up using Plastruct glue seems to be the best so far!! (:-) (:-)
Just keep trying I have ended up using Plastruct glue seems to be the best so far!! (:-) (:-)
Jurgen
Limburg, Belgium
Joined: October 29, 2003
KitMaker: 651 posts
Armorama: 510 posts
Joined: October 29, 2003
KitMaker: 651 posts
Armorama: 510 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 25, 2003 - 04:54 AM UTC
I've been struggling with those exact links too...
I'm not so familiar with the English/US kind of glues, but I've done them with this glue:
Didn't look that bad afterwards... I still do prefer the "rubber" links...
I'm not so familiar with the English/US kind of glues, but I've done them with this glue:
Didn't look that bad afterwards... I still do prefer the "rubber" links...
shonen_red
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
Armorama: 2,283 posts
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
Armorama: 2,283 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 25, 2003 - 05:31 PM UTC
I agree. Individual track links are best for destroyed tanks.
Sensei
Belgrade, Serbia & Montenegro
Joined: October 25, 2003
KitMaker: 1,217 posts
Armorama: 799 posts
Joined: October 25, 2003
KitMaker: 1,217 posts
Armorama: 799 posts
Posted: Friday, December 26, 2003 - 12:42 AM UTC
YUP, I finished my Maquette pzkpf 38(t) and i used Revell Contacta (in picture above) and it sure does the work, u have almost 2-3 hours time to adjust positions of links and for some bad spaces super glue does the trick
SS-74
Vatican City
Joined: May 13, 2002
KitMaker: 3,271 posts
Armorama: 2,388 posts
Joined: May 13, 2002
KitMaker: 3,271 posts
Armorama: 2,388 posts
Posted: Friday, December 26, 2003 - 01:27 AM UTC
hehe, I don't understand all the difficulties for the DML track links, I mean, I do them all the times using tamiya glue, just brush some on, and stick. Really? it's that hard? #:-) Must be me then...
TUNA
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: March 16, 2003
KitMaker: 449 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: March 16, 2003
KitMaker: 449 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, December 26, 2003 - 01:51 AM UTC
Shonen.. the secret is 'slow drying' plastic cement.. I'm not familiar with that type you have there.. I use the Testors stuff that comes in the Black Triangle dispenser...
I usually do long runs... let them dry for about 10 - 15 minutes.. then they are ready to start curving!!!..
If you use the stuff that dries too fast (like I've tried that plastic cement that comes with the brush in the bottle).. then you end up having to put the tracks on two quickly.. or if it's already dried.. I would assume they'd snap off...
The secrect is the slow drying stuff.. cause giving it the 10 mintues gives it enough time to make the Tracks stay together for the application, but after you leave them overnight.. they harden up...
I haven't really had any problems with DML individual links.. except for the fact that you have so many darn Ejectiion Pin Marks to sand off!!!... but assembly, I've been lucky..
Good luck
charlie
I usually do long runs... let them dry for about 10 - 15 minutes.. then they are ready to start curving!!!..
If you use the stuff that dries too fast (like I've tried that plastic cement that comes with the brush in the bottle).. then you end up having to put the tracks on two quickly.. or if it's already dried.. I would assume they'd snap off...
The secrect is the slow drying stuff.. cause giving it the 10 mintues gives it enough time to make the Tracks stay together for the application, but after you leave them overnight.. they harden up...
I haven't really had any problems with DML individual links.. except for the fact that you have so many darn Ejectiion Pin Marks to sand off!!!... but assembly, I've been lucky..
Good luck
charlie