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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
gloss/dullcote question
jjruiz
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Tennessee, United States
Joined: October 22, 2012
KitMaker: 27 posts
Armorama: 20 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 18, 2014 - 04:38 PM UTC
gents...i recently got a couple bottles of gloss and dullcote from testors, up until now i was using future and homemade oil wash and filters with no problem.

well i picked up a metric ton of ammo/ak/mig/ and everyone elses filters, washes, and effects from a firesale at the last show, the deals were so good i just couldnt pass them up...that being said i went to throw some filter on a kit i used as a guinea pig and when i started brushing the filter on it seems it started to disolve/attack the clear coat and became gummy to the touch...the painting steps were as follows...ak primer, ammo and ak paints, glosscoat, decal, glosscote, dullcote...hit it with the filter and then the problem arose...anyone have this issue?...did i do something wrong i.e. using testors cotes with the mig filters?....does the testors need to dry/gas off for a certain amount of time? or did i miss something simple i should have known?

any advice is greatly appreciated

thanks
SdAufKla
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South Carolina, United States
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Posted: Monday, May 19, 2014 - 01:20 AM UTC
It could well be that the thinners in the AK filter softened and caused the clear coats to lift. I haven't used enough of those products to really say, though. I have used some of the AK "streaking" fluids over Dull Coat with no problems, though.

Like you, I usually use Future as a gloss clear for decaling and then follow with Testors Dull Coat reduced with ordinary lacquer thinners. I also use washes and filters made from artist oils and odorless mineral spirits and have never experienced any lifting of either the Future or the Dull Coat with those. I've used some of the AK "streaking" fluids to supplement the oil washes and streaking over the Future and Dull Coat with good results.

The Testors Gloss and Dull Coat products are lacquers, though, and can be affected by some mineral spirits, alcohols and other cellulous thinners (lacquer thinners, acetone, etc).

I've also noted that some clear gloss coats take a long time to dry out completely, so I'd say it's quite possible that the culprit was the Gloss Coat not being hard-dry. However, depending on the thinners in the AK filter, flooding the surface and then using a brush to sop away the excess might have overcome any amount of drying with the Gloss and Dull Coats.

Perhaps a more controlled application of the filters on your next test could give better results. Maybe brush the filters on thinly with less brushing out afterwards to manipulate the finish. Also, drying time on the Gloss Coat might need to be extended, perhaps overnight?

Alternatively, consider going back to the Future for your gloss coats and decaling. Dried Future seems to be pretty much "bulletproof" to everything except lacquer thinners and ammonia.

HTH
parrot
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 1,607 posts
Armorama: 1,581 posts
Posted: Monday, May 19, 2014 - 03:35 AM UTC
I would tend to agree with Mike that possibly the gloss coat wasn't dry enough.Future dries quick and seems to stand up to pretty much anything.I only apply Future to the area the decal is going to be and then coat with Dulcote.Never had a problem.Lately I have been using Tamiya clear flat,XS-80 I think.And I find it much better than Testors.Costs a little more,but dries quicker and and seems to have a flatter finish

Tom
BBD468
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Texas, United States
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 2,465 posts
Armorama: 2,383 posts
Posted: Monday, May 19, 2014 - 04:47 AM UTC
Great advise from the Guys JJruiz. I myself seal with Future gloss (GREAT STUFF) and when time to apply Flat coat i do use Testors Dullcote. I apply 3 nice coats and let dry at least 48 hours (more if ya got time) and ive not had any problems with oil dot fading, AK & Mig washes and the like.

Good luck man,

Gary
jjruiz
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Tennessee, United States
Joined: October 22, 2012
KitMaker: 27 posts
Armorama: 20 posts
Posted: Monday, May 19, 2014 - 03:32 PM UTC
thanks for the replys gentlemen...i am truly beginning to think i just didnt let the clear gas off enough and dry...was only about 3-4 hours after clearcoat that i went to slopping filters on it...guess im use to the future, i would start weathering it within an hour after spraying the future...but im sure the oils and turpinoid didnt stand a chance to crack the surface of that future shell....

so here comes a new learning curve...i have several kits waiting on paint and weathering/finishing...i will do the old favorite i rekon while i tinker with the new stuff on a hulk in the corner.


thanks once again
james
Blackstoat
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: October 15, 2012
KitMaker: 568 posts
Armorama: 561 posts
Posted: Monday, May 19, 2014 - 07:06 PM UTC
Hi.

am I right in thinking you diluted the oils with terpenoid? If so I think that's your problem. I once had turpentine melt through everything including the mixing palette. It was a gooky mess much as you describe. Use mineral spirit mate

hope that helps

Andy
jjruiz
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Tennessee, United States
Joined: October 22, 2012
KitMaker: 27 posts
Armorama: 20 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 03:19 AM UTC
Andy, no sir the turp never gave a problem...it was using mig filters over gloss/dullcote....the turp never bothered the future.


gonna do some "spearmentin" here directly and see what i can learn.
Blackstoat
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: October 15, 2012
KitMaker: 568 posts
Armorama: 561 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 04:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Andy, no sir the turp never gave a problem...it was using mig filters over gloss/dullcote....the turp never bothered the future.


gonna do some "spearmentin" here directly and see what i can learn.



sorry misread. That'll teach me for posting as soon as I woke up!
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