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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Airbrush painting "sessions" and maintenance
SimonK
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Dublin, Ireland
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 28 posts
Armorama: 20 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 - 01:27 AM UTC
Hey guys, before I start using my airbrush, couple of questions regarding the time between each session.

What I'll be using:
- primer - I have 2 rattle can primers (GW Black, Humbrol grey),and in future will probably use regular tamiya acrylic paints for priming.
- paints - tamiya acrylics
- washes/pigments - I think vallejo, AK and MIG (will look up later today)
- tamiya weathering kit
- couple of varnishes - gloss and matte, will probably get a satin one soon (vallejo?)

I will look up actual brand names and types later today, once I get off work.

How long do I wait :
1. Before each primer coat and before applying paint after priming?
2. between each paint layer?
3. After using Varnish?
4. before I start adding washes/pigments/weathering?

And:
When do I clean the airbrush? How soon does the paint dry inside the airbrush? Do I clean it up immediately after finishing a layer? Do I clean it In between same colour sessions that take more than X time? I'm really confused about this, everyone seems to bring up the topic of "how to" clean the airbrush, and not "when to" clean it

Thanks in advance!
Blackstoat
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: October 15, 2012
KitMaker: 568 posts
Armorama: 561 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 - 03:35 AM UTC
Hi Bud

On the airbrush cleaning thing. The paint etc starts to dry the second you put it in the airbrush. You might find that it dries on the tip actually during a painting session, so the tip needs cleaning mid-session. I use a soft brush with thinner on it and gently remove any build up. I've been using Tamiya retarder recently and haven't found this to be an issue anymore.

My advice would be, never let the paint sit in the airbrush any longer than necessary. The longer you leave it the harder it is to clean.

Remember cleaning it doesn't necessarily mean a full strip down. I only reserve this for when I'm actually putting the airbrush away after a session. If I'm coming back to it after 30 mins or so a wipe out and a few blows through with thinner is usually sufficient - you could always take the needle out and give that a wipe too. (Giving it a blow back cleans it particularly well, not sure what the correct term for this is though). I use lacquer thinner for cleaning as it seems to remove pretty much everything, but I know some people think this attacks the seals. All I can say is it hasn't caused me any problems.

Hope that helps

Andy
retiredyank
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Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 - 06:01 AM UTC
The best way to clean your ab is to use an ultrasonic cleaner. I picked up one on EBay for $5, with shipping. Let it run for about a minute, using water or glass cleaner. No need to take the ab apart. I would recommend backing the needle off a millimeter or two. Wipe with a cotton swab or soft rag. It will strip even the most hardened lacquer.
I always let rattle can paints cure for at least 24 hours. Acrylics I respray after 2-3 hours. Light coats are best. I wait at least 48 hours, before applying pigment.
ninjrk
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Alabama, United States
Joined: January 26, 2006
KitMaker: 1,381 posts
Armorama: 1,347 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 - 06:54 AM UTC
One thing that I've had a lot of success with is a craft/hardware low temp heat gun. Wave it over the model and paint dries in 30-45 seconds and you can move on to the next coat. saw it on a youtube model tutorial and tried it out and have been very impressed.
fireontheway
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 17, 2006
KitMaker: 370 posts
Armorama: 368 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 - 07:15 AM UTC
Heres what I think. Airbrushes are like women. It all depends on how you treat them as to how to clean them. I always thought if I handled them kindly that would pay off, well I was wrong. I take my Paasche apart after every use and clean it thoroughly. Its very simple to break down and clean. I spray nothing but acrylics and have found that just running a cleaner thru the brush doesnt cut it and it shows the next time I go to use it. Cleaning my "clean AB" I have pushed goop out of the tip that was once acrylic paint that has now allowed my needle its full travel. As far as primer goes, having recently attended AMPS in VA and I believe it was Shep Paine who gave a talk that my friend Kurt attended, he doesnt prime. He believes that its just another coat of paint that he doesnt feel needs added. I assume though if you use PE you will still need to prime. So I am considering that. I try to give my paints several hours if not a day or 2 to dry depending on how motivated I am. Its all trial and error, take what you you like from everyones advice, try it and see what works for you.
SimonK
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Dublin, Ireland
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 28 posts
Armorama: 20 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 22, 2014 - 07:55 PM UTC
Great advice, thanks guys!
ninjrk
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Alabama, United States
Joined: January 26, 2006
KitMaker: 1,381 posts
Armorama: 1,347 posts
Posted: Friday, May 23, 2014 - 02:28 AM UTC
Steve Zaloga has also discussed not using primer and it seems reasonable. i personally applaud Vallejo for making primers that also happen to be an appropriate base color, killing two birds with one stone.

I always tear down my airbrush for a full clean in the ultrasonic cleaner after a completed session. Perhaps i am simply unlucky but if I don't that one fragment of paint causes spattering or blows out right when I am completing a paint coat. the one good thing with the heat gun is I can cure the paint in seconds, sand, and repaint without ever having the paint dry in the airbrush.
fireontheway
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 17, 2006
KitMaker: 370 posts
Armorama: 368 posts
Posted: Friday, May 23, 2014 - 07:10 AM UTC
Matt your right it was Steve Zaloga, my bad
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