Hey guys. Thanks for all your help! Got two questions:

1. I use Acrylic Paint. When I do washes should I thin with water or acrylic thinner?

2. Getting read to wash and dry brush my tank. Question is, do I get my dirt, rust and mud on first THEN wash and dry brush? I usually always do the rust and dirt last but just wondering what the rest of y'all do.

Thanks!

Usually I use an enamil wash over acrylic paint and vise versa. If you use acrylic wash on acrylic paint you run the risk of taking off the origional coat.

As for weathering I paint, wash, weather then dry brush. Then I'll add the mud and other stuff.

On the contrary, you WILL NOT harm the acrylic finish with an acrylic wash as long as you let the finished acrylic coat dry for a FULL 24 hours. You can also do the same with a solvent wash over enamel based finishes, WITHOUT the use of a protective clear coat. The key factor being, the enamel finish should be given a FULL 72-hours ( 3 days ) to dry & cure

It's the CURING that count's the most. The finishes surface which may seem dry , does not neccessarily mean that the paint underneath has cured. This is even ' more-so' when applying multiple coats in a very short period of time. That why it's is ' a must ' for giving the dry times I mentioned above. if your paint underneath the surface has not fully cured, it is then that many modeler's see washes lift there nicely painted finish to ruin. Weather using enamel or acrylic washes, the finish paint 's DRY & CURE time is most important for successful results ! As long as these DRY & CURE times are used as instructed there is no need for ANY protective clear coats

..... Sladog, 99% of my washes are solvent based using enamel or oil paints.
THOUGH NOT OFFICIAL - WASHES WERE ORIGINALLY BROUGHT FORTH USING SOLVENT BASED PAINTS & THINNERS .... AND THEY GIVE FAR BETTER RESULTS !
The bad thing about acrylic washes is because the thinner's used for this medium are water based and water just has too much " surface tension " to make a smooth flowing wash, which also results in poor capillary action for raised detail.

If you are going to use an acrylic wash, my advise is to use a thinner that does not have so much "surface tension ". When I actually but seldomly use an acrylic wash, for a thinner I use WINDEX WINDOW CLEANER. You can also use distilled water or tap water with a drop of dish detergent ( Dawn - Joy - Palmolive - etc ). The dish detergent actually helps break the surface tension .......... As for the WINDEX, there's already ingredient's in it that helps break the surface tension. The best advice, is to use an acrylic paint's own manufactued thinner. Some modeler think this is a waste of money but on the contrary it is money well spent because the thinner is made to match the properties of the paint

Modelers have also used alcohol, ammonia, etc, for thinners. I have experimented with all of these and what I mentioned above has given the best results for an acrylic wash, outside of using a manufactured acrylic thinner.

For your 2nd question: You can go either way, but my advise, especailly if your putting this tank into a diorama scene or even a small vignette with a landscape scene, is to add the dirt and mud, then add washes and drybrushing AFTER the dirt/mud have THOROUHLY dried. The reason for this is that you want the any dirt and mud that has been picked up by the vehicle to blend in with it's path of through the landscape.

- ralph

Sladog

if you like to use acrylics for painting and weathering, do a coat of future between the painting and weathering steps... the future will seal the paint and let the wash flow nicely into all the details without ruining the basecoat... Only thing is, after you finish, you will have to shoot a coat of dull coat to reduce the shine of the future...

Dave

i would not use Acrylic paint to do a wash,
because when it drys it leaves runs and bloting.
cause i tryed to do a wash with Acrylic paint a few times,
i used tamyia Acrylic and i also tryed to use testors model master Acrylic paint.
it just dont work.
so just use enamel wash over the Acrylic paint and use a coat of futue and let it dry over night

Hey all-
I have found that, instead of trying to get the right consistency or all of the other items involved in acrylic or enamel washes, I get the best results from Crayola watercolors. The brown and black colors provide a cheap and equally realistic alternative. You just add water to thin to the right density and paint it on the panel lines, rivets, etc. Then wipe off with a damp cloth or Q-Tip. Best part is that it washes off with water so if you screw up you can just clean the area and start over. Hope that helps.
Kyle

I got this advice from Ralph (screaming eagle) nearly 3 years ago when I started out first. I use both enamels and oils for washes and have never used a flat coat since. Never have I had a problem either. I usually spray tamiya acrylics or enamels or both.
I refuse to use acrylics for washes. I have never had any success with them other than airbrushing. Humbrols enamel thinner is what I use every time for good results, controllable with some practice, and works equally well with both enamels and oils.

Good to see your still around Ralph!

I have had some very interesting results with enamels., it works real well on OD painted on OD colored plastic. I DON"T wait the 72 hours for the paint to cure. it causes the paint to slightly mix thus giving an uneven paint scheme akin to weathering. I've done it on my last four OD painted vehicles and been absolutely pleased with the results. Kinda risky though but my wash is a browish/blackish mix