Do you guys wash your parts or model prior to priming and painting. To remove any dust from sanding, mold release oils, etc. If so, how do you go about it? Wash on the sprue, after being built, etc?
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Washing model before priming
Namerifrats
North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 26, 2014
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Joined: May 26, 2014
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 05:25 AM UTC
bbailey_33
Florida, United States
Joined: May 10, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 06:02 AM UTC
I usually always wash on sprues, and if a 1/24 car (where I want super smooth finish) I wash again before primer.
For military/sci-fi, I never wash again after initial cleaning.
Will be interesting to see how the pros approach this.
For military/sci-fi, I never wash again after initial cleaning.
Will be interesting to see how the pros approach this.
spoons
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: January 09, 2008
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Joined: January 09, 2008
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 06:08 AM UTC
This is one of the most overlooked parts of painting a model!
I alway wash the model prior to painting usually in sub assemblies when the model is almost complete, washing up liquid works for me just a drop in the sink full of water then dip the model in, you may need a brush to agitate some stubborn areas but usually its just grease from finger prints!
Also experiment with different solutions i found a plastic cleaner in the hardware shop that has antistatic properties just remeber to rinse with water after and let dry.
I alway wash the model prior to painting usually in sub assemblies when the model is almost complete, washing up liquid works for me just a drop in the sink full of water then dip the model in, you may need a brush to agitate some stubborn areas but usually its just grease from finger prints!
Also experiment with different solutions i found a plastic cleaner in the hardware shop that has antistatic properties just remeber to rinse with water after and let dry.
Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 06:36 AM UTC
Basically it is best practice that can be followed religiously by some and not at all by others.
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 06:49 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Basically it is best practice that can be followed religiously by some and not at all by others.
And some of us ( ) both believe in the principle and think religiously about doing so for every box we pull out... and then get all apostate and heretical whenever that box of goodness gets open and the cement fumes start to waft about and get up into the head and stuff! Or, put more conservatively and primly... enthusiasm sometimes over-rides the best laid plans and better practices! Cleaning off the mold-release IS a good idea, specially if you are going for acryls as the first coat, and washing sub-assemblies is an effective way to cut down finger-prints and oils. The mild doses of dish liquid in warm water work very well, followed by some waving of sprues (runners) or gently blasting sub-assemblies with air from the AB to get water off the plastic and avoid water-marks and such (if your water is hard).
Bob
spoons
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: January 09, 2008
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 07:13 AM UTC
Talking of mold release, i remember buying kits couple years ago from across the iron curtain that had grease inside the bags!
Namerifrats
North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 26, 2014
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 11:21 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Talking of mold release, i remember buying kits couple years ago from across the iron curtain that had grease inside the bags!
Sounds like some of the military surplus rifles from the old Soviet Union I've bought. Covered in Cosmoline
chumpo
United States
Joined: August 30, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 11:24 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Talking of mold release, i remember buying kits couple years ago from across the iron curtain that had grease inside the bags!
That was to keep the sprues from sticking to the plastic bags and keep them for drying out .
chumpo
United States
Joined: August 30, 2010
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Joined: August 30, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 11:25 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextTalking of mold release, i remember buying kits couple years ago from across the iron curtain that had grease inside the bags!
Sounds like some of the military surplus rifles from the old Soviet Union I've bought. Covered in Cosmoline
Maybe it a 1 to 1 kit of a real ak 47 .
Tojo72
North Carolina, United States
Joined: June 06, 2006
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Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 01:56 PM UTC
No,I never wash my models,and I have never had any problem with paint adhesion.However,I will wash resin parts,and white metal tracks also need washing.
bigjsd
United States
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Posted: Saturday, June 21, 2014 - 04:58 AM UTC
I'm in the camp of those who never wash. I have washed specific areas when I noticed fingerprints or excessive grime. I also have never had paint adhesion problems. I usually paint with Tamiya Acrylics thinned with Mr. Color Self Levelling Thinner, which by the way is a GREAT thinner for Tamiya paint.
hugohuertas
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Joined: January 26, 2007
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Posted: Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 04:49 AM UTC
Never washed any kit or specific tree/part
And never have had any issues with paint adhesion either...
And never have had any issues with paint adhesion either...
SdAufKla
South Carolina, United States
Joined: May 07, 2010
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Posted: Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 09:16 AM UTC
I'm in the always wash group.
Sanding residue, swarf from sawing, bits from filing and carving, finger prints, dust from sitting on my workbench for a couple of months, etc, etc, etc...
Dirty models make for dirty finishes.
I plug the kitchen sink, and use warm water, dish detergent and a large, soft watercolor brush to scrub the model gently, rinse under warm running water and air dry.
I generally wash after construction and often wind up with a pile of subassemblies and other parts that will be painted separately.
After washing, I never handle the model again with my bare hands without first washing them. Once I get the base coats on, I never handle the model again with bare hands at all, but use disposable latex gloves from then on.
Works for me...
Sanding residue, swarf from sawing, bits from filing and carving, finger prints, dust from sitting on my workbench for a couple of months, etc, etc, etc...
Dirty models make for dirty finishes.
I plug the kitchen sink, and use warm water, dish detergent and a large, soft watercolor brush to scrub the model gently, rinse under warm running water and air dry.
I generally wash after construction and often wind up with a pile of subassemblies and other parts that will be painted separately.
After washing, I never handle the model again with my bare hands without first washing them. Once I get the base coats on, I never handle the model again with bare hands at all, but use disposable latex gloves from then on.
Works for me...
ninjrk
Alabama, United States
Joined: January 26, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 09:29 AM UTC
I alway wash by spraying heavily with Windex and then rinsing and allowing to dry. Worth it just to get th dust off. I've only had one time when I hadn't and it cuased problems but that was enough that twenty cents worth of Windex.
Posted: Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 11:19 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextBasically it is best practice that can be followed religiously by some and not at all by others.
And some of us ( ) both believe in the principle and think religiously about doing so for every box we pull out... and then get all apostate and heretical whenever that box of goodness gets open and the cement fumes start to waft about and get up into the head and stuff! Or, put more conservatively and primly... enthusiasm sometimes over-rides the best laid plans and better practices! Cleaning off the mold-release IS a good idea, specially if you are going for acryls as the first coat, and washing sub-assemblies is an effective way to cut down finger-prints and oils. The mild doses of dish liquid in warm water work very well, followed by some waving of sprues (runners) or gently blasting sub-assemblies with air from the AB to get water off the plastic and avoid water-marks and such (if your water is hard).
Bob
That's me all over, Bob!
I've never noticed a problem with mold release; it's usually my greasy fingers that are the problem. My plan with the bazooka Jeep I'm currently working on is to drop it in the ultrasonic cleaner after it's pretty much all assembled. Of course i may just end up vibrating all the PE off.....
Armored76
Bayern, Germany
Joined: September 30, 2013
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Joined: September 30, 2013
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Posted: Monday, June 30, 2014 - 12:28 AM UTC
Hi,
I'm in the moderate section who's only washing on the sprues to remove mold release agents. Admitedly, I started doing this only after ruining my first model where I applied the hairspray chipping technique.
I think as long as you only apply layer after layer without trying to remove any previous one (read: chipping with hairspray or chipping fluid) you're mostly fine without too much cleaning. As soon as you start applying chipping by removing layers you HAVE TO wash off at least the mold release agent remainings. Otherwise you'll find yourself in the situation of removing everything down to the bare styrene when scratching off the color(s), in no time.
I'm in the moderate section who's only washing on the sprues to remove mold release agents. Admitedly, I started doing this only after ruining my first model where I applied the hairspray chipping technique.
I think as long as you only apply layer after layer without trying to remove any previous one (read: chipping with hairspray or chipping fluid) you're mostly fine without too much cleaning. As soon as you start applying chipping by removing layers you HAVE TO wash off at least the mold release agent remainings. Otherwise you'll find yourself in the situation of removing everything down to the bare styrene when scratching off the color(s), in no time.