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Armor/AFV: Braille Scale
1/72 and 1/76 Scale Armor and AFVs.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Revell Brückenlegepanzer Biber
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 28, 2003 - 09:54 AM UTC
Has anyone taken a shot at this new kit? I picked one up at the local hobby shop for $10 and it looks rather impressive. Fairly big box for a Braille scale kit.

Any way, I was wondering if anyone has come across any pitfalls when building it. In particular, it comes with five different options for deploying the bridge: 1) fully stowed on the carrier; 2) forward span partially extended; 3) forward span fully extended; ; 4) entire bridge fully extended; 5) bridge fully deployed.

I figure with the bridge partially or full extended using option 2, 3 or 4, that the Leopard chassis has little chance of remaining with its tracks on the ground! If you built it, how'd you over come this problem? Lead weights in the Leopard engine compartment? Use screws to attach the vehicle to the base of a diorama?
TankCarl
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Rhode Island, United States
Joined: May 10, 2002
KitMaker: 3,581 posts
Armorama: 2,782 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 28, 2003 - 10:43 AM UTC
Sabot,

A dio would be the best,you could have it in the deploying mode.In position,with one end in place.I doubt when parked anywhere they would be partially opened.
http://www.panzer-modell.de/referenz/in_detail/biber/gal2.htm" TARGET="_blank">
http://www.panzer-modell.de/referenz/in_detail/biber/gal2.htm

Hmmm just found this,you could do it with both out in front,and use a screw.....
Jurgen
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Limburg, Belgium
Joined: October 29, 2003
KitMaker: 651 posts
Armorama: 510 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 28, 2003 - 10:59 AM UTC



Quoted Text

I figure with the bridge partially or full extended using option 2, 3 or 4, that the Leopard chassis has little chance of remaining with its tracks on the ground! If you built it, how'd you over come this problem?


Not like this i guess....

Sorry... I know this is way
Trackjam
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: April 12, 2002
KitMaker: 831 posts
Armorama: 614 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 28, 2003 - 12:27 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Not like this i guess....


Ow! Isn't that a Leopard 2 MLC 70 and an old Cent bridge MLC 60?
Anyways Sabot I picked one up too. I would suggest lead shot in the chassis. I'm just going to do mine stowed for travel. thought it would look nice in the cabinet next to the scratchbuilt 1/35 scale Beaver.
pascalbausset
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Moselle, France
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 1,416 posts
Armorama: 1,379 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 28, 2003 - 08:01 PM UTC
[quote]

Any way, I was wondering if anyone has come across any pitfalls when building it. In particular, it comes with five different options for deploying the bridge: 1) fully stowed on the carrier; 2) forward span partially extended; 3) forward span fully extended; ; 4) entire bridge fully extended; 5) bridge fully deployed. quote]

Hi Sabot,

For the position 2,3,4 you can make a counter weight with some thing like white metal.
Some years ago I make this for a deployed WW2 hydraulic Churchill bridge layer.
This metal is utilised by figures (figurines in french) maker. This metal is sell in length and its easy to smell or weld to make a "block" in the good dimensions to enter in the tank's hull.

In othe point of view, you can have problem with the supporting arm!!!

Cheers


quote]
blaster76
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Texas, United States
Joined: September 15, 2002
KitMaker: 8,985 posts
Armorama: 3,034 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 28, 2003 - 09:39 PM UTC
I've seen some funny things happen with an AVLB and had to use 2 M-88's to pull one out of sinking in the mud, but that flipped over one is definitely different.
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