Hey everyone,

I wanted to share a few images of my finished KV-1 Small Turret.
Any feedback is greatly appreciated!
A build log and further images are available on my blog at http://armored76.wordpress.com/2014/06/28/building-trumpeters-135-kv-1-small-turret/.

nice work is this the Trumpeter kit ???
nice build
dave

Thanks, Dave! Yes, it is the Trumpeter kit.

Nice paint and weathering. Looks realistic

Hi Cristian,
My focus went immediately to the tracks and damaged fenders -- outstanding job!

--mike

Very nice work and realistic rust effects!

The word "immaculate" comes to mind. Really over the top on weathering. Do you plan on adding a figure, to account for the open hatch and lack of interior?

Thanks everyone for your kind words!

Actually, I left the hatch open hoping to add a commander figure, indeed. It's just that I haven't done any figure yet nor do I have any in my stash. Any suggestions?

Thanks again!

Here's something a little different:
MasterBox: Bail Out! Soviet Tankmen Kursk 1943
http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Scale_Figures/bail-out-soviet-tankmen-kursk-1943/MBL00003532/product.php?s=0&t=5&u=0&micr=122&pg=1&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber&so=a&era=6&ct=6&sc=35

--mike

Hi I like what I see , very good on the weathering of the whole tank job well done cheers ian

Thank you!

That kit is indeed something a bit more unusual. I'll bookmark it for my next models in case I'll decide to built a freshly hit vehicle. Thanks for sharing!

I was thinking you could use the tanker climbing out of the turret instead of the usual standing, posing, pointing tanker. Remove the pistol if needed and save the other three figures for later.

--mike

Cristian,

Excellent work! I appreciate how the dust looks days old yet also simulates moisture and vibration (at least to me). And your tracks look like they weight a ton - nice dirty metal effects.

Nice work!

One of my future works, someday!

Regards

Alvaro

What a great idea, Mike!!! One thing, tough... The kit name says Kursk 1943 while my KV-1 is 1941. Are the uniforms still representative/matching?

@Frederick: The tracks are indeed very nicely molded. One of the main reasons for going for them instead of the rubber ones. Plus the fact that I'm never able to melt/glue rubber track ends together

@Alvaro: The Trumpeter kit has very nice details OOB at an unbeatable price.

I also laid my eyes on this one: http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/plastic-model-series-20/1-35-scale-military-miniature-12000/russian-army-tank-crew-35214

I've found that many companies design their figures with some leeway in mind. Paint color selection may actually be a very simple answer. However, I am no expert on timelines (research required) I'm certain that somebody in the forum has a quick answer.





MHO: A little too "posed" -- my personal taste. However, if "you" like them, go for it. Whatever you decide, I'm certain the end result will be great!

--mike

I like the use of rust and rusty scratches... any secrets you want to share on how this was done?


I can't help it but some of those figures look as if they are about to start break dancing! LOL At least they're not like what we had in the 70's!








Jeff

The scratch and rust effects are no magic, really

For the rust effects, the steps are:

• apply Vallejo German red Brown primer (or any other preferably dark, rust color)
  
• apply a not-too-thin-not-too-thick layer of hairspray. I always apply this with the airbrush and not directly from the spray for better control
  
• apply a thin layer of Vallejo Russian Green
  
• when all dry, apply a thin film of warm water over the green
  
• let it soak for about 20 seconds
  
• apply scratches with a toothpick (thin lines) or a stiff brush (larger scratches)
  
• let it dry before further handling to avoid unwanted scratches
  

The next step was applying the rust streaking marks:

• protect the layer(s) of color with either dull or gloss ACRYLIC (VERY important!) clear coat
  
• put some burnt sienna oil paint on a piece of cardboard so it soaks out the oils preventing it from being glossy when applied
  
• mix a small amount of thinner if needed to make the oil more "creamy"
  
• apply a small dot preferably over a larger rusty spot on the edges
  
• using a thinner-damp brush, streak the paint vertically trying to thin the streak width towards the bottom
  
• if not happy with the result, remove using a bit more thinner
  
• protect with a clear coat
  

The layering rust is done with pigments (Vallejo burnt sienna in my case) using these steps:

• apply a thin, irregular layer of dull coat with a brush
  
• apply the dry pigments using a large brush drumming off the excess
  
• let dry for a couple of minutes then apply another thin, irregular layer of dull coat ON TOP of the previous layer of pigments followed by pigments again
  
• repeat step above until happy
  

For the rust dusting:

• apply dry pigments on the surface
  
• rub with a large, soft brush
  
• remove excess that is not sticking
  
• fix with pigment fixer, alcohol or clear coat
  

That's all! Hope this helps!

I have also added this description to my blog with some images picturing the achieved results: How to: Rust Effects

Hi Christian,

First of all, congratulations on a beautiful model. As others have said, your weathering effects are exemplary.

I'm going to get crazily nit-picky on the combination of production features in your model, and let me say that is by no means a criticism of your modeling, but simply a statement for the record...

You have the KV mounting the L-11 gun, which occurred until the end of 1940. You also have two stowage boxes on the right-hand fender and one on the left-hand fender, which was a configuration adopted in mid- to late-January 1941. At the same time, the saw and it's mounting bracket were moved to the inside of the rearmost stowage box on the right-hand fender.

So for historical accuracy and an 'out of the factory' vehicle, you could have an L-11 armed KV with two stowage boxes on the left-hand fender, one on the right-hand fender and the saw bracket on the left-hand fender, or an F-32 armed KV with two stowage boxes on the right-hand fender, one on the left-hand fender and no saw/bracket.

Of course, there were loads of rebuilds so there's nothing to say that a KV couldn't have existed as you depict it...and it's a damn beautiful model so let's all just enjoy it

Neil

Cristian, thanks for the link and explanation

Regards from the South

Alvaro

Thank you, Neil for taking the time to point this out! This is the kind of detail I would probably never be able to get on my own It's greatly appreciated!