Is there any easy way to put those terrible Dragon individual link tracks together or do I have to put up with them falling apart and being crooked.

I line them up on a piece of wide masking tape using a 6" steel ruler to keep them straight.

Once I've got the length I want, I put a drop of glue at the connection points. If the run of track sections is going to curve around the sprocket or idler, I curl the tape with tracks still on around that piece. For a top run that will sag, I stick a paint brush or pencil under the tape so the tracks will dry in the proper wavy position.

I usually make four runs, one for the bottom, one for the top and one each for the wrap around the sprocket and idler.

I do about the same as Sabot, except I put the glue on each link as I assemble it to the next link, then use two straight edges to align the links in the section, let dry for twenty to thirty minutes and drape on the suspension. I uses low tack cello tape to hold the sections in place.

I was daunted by the indy tracks at first, but once started, they actually went together pretty easily. Just make sure you get the flash cleaned out of the assembly points, otherwise the links will assemble cockeyed.

I use the side of my cutting mat line them up against it it is straight checked with square and apply the glue.
Well I glued each link using a slow set glue but alas they did fall apart after the oil wash plastic turned real brittle! but came apart only where they go around the rear drive sprocket and front idler on Maus.
The drive sprocket teeth are too fat even after thinning they still cause the tracks to break apart. Darn Dragon but still okay.
Sorry if I rambled a little after all the drinking last night I am still in the Talk mood #:-)

Hi. I go the easy route. I put the plastic spures that have Dragon's individual track links on them in the recycle bin and use Fruilmodel tracks. If you ever try a set of these, you'll do the same thing.

Take care, Sgirty

I made a fixture out of a piece of alumium angle that I bought at a hardware store.

In total agreement with you but sometimes they don't make them like the Maus and E-100 don't make none big Time Bummer
Enjoy the Day Sgirty!!!

First, I glue on all road wheels, return rollers, drive sprockets and idlers with Elmer's white glue. Prepainting the wheels are a plus because it prevents stray glue from welding the track to the wheels.

Assemble a straight stretch that runs from the middle of the first road wheel to the middle of the last road wheel. Leave this to dry for a few hours. This stretch will be the basis for future alignment so it better be solid.

Next assemble the remaining links using Tamiya liquid glue. Do one side first. When all links are stuck together carefully lift the track and wrap it around the wheels and sprocket. The links should not fall apart but the joints should be soft enough that they can still move. Use tweezers to straighten kinks. While the tracks are drying put the flat stretch of tracks under the other set of road wheels so they will stay straight. Leave to dry for a few hours.

After both runs are done gently pry or twist the wheels and sprockets off the hull. You should have two sets of track runs ready to paint and weather.

This technique can be found on this site and it works!

Like others have written - a straightedge and/or double sided tape helps. I use the tape and build them in sections of 8-10 treads. These are combined into longer section for the top and bottom runs and then individual treads are wrapped arount the front idle wheel and the rear sprocket (Reverse if applicable). Works pretty well for me. Also - PAINT the track before assembly. I use Tamiya red brown as a base and follow-up with washes of burnt umber and rust. Also, highlight the rub points on the inside - then assemble using Tenax 7 liquid cement. This has great capilary action and a small drop will do ya. Also the glue allows you some time to align the track and even add sag as needed. Have fun

Have to agree with Sgirty on this one. Can the DML tracks and go with a set of Fruil. You'll save yourself alot of agrivation!

I was just looking over at Mission Models. Are all Fruilmodel tracks $34.50 a set?
Wow! Talk about sticker shock!

If you poke around a bit you can find them cheaper. Usually around $26 a set.

I have never had a problem with the DML tracks. I glue them together one at time and when I get a nice long length, I glue them on and then I do the same with the others until I get enough for one side. I have used Fruil tracks, I am not impressed with them. I would just use the $26 to 30 on another kit. Good luck which ever way you go with your tracks.
Recon

Hola!

This may be a tad late, but better late then never

What I do when I do an occasional trackie, I make a little tool so the tracks will be straight and it eases the assembly a lot. What you do is take a couple of Evergreen Styrene long square pieces cut them about 4"-5" long. Now take a couple of the tracks that you are doing, and place each piece of styrene on either side of the track guide horn (the thing that sticks up in midde), make sure its nice and close to the guiding horn thingie, now take another couple of styrene pieces and glue them accross the long square pieces to hold them in place (you might want to do this underneath the side you will be using). Now you should be able to lay your track out on the "rail" you just made and it will be easy to glue them in a straight line!

Hope this is of some help!