Hi Guys.
Here is my version of Building Mengs D9R.
I know it has been done before, But I'm trying to do it mostly out of the box, with a few corrections and minor detailing. No super weathering or extreme changes.
Donald



Step #1 & #2 finished

Have the ripper finished, I think?
I put the bolt heads on one pair of the hydrolic cylinders, I'm not sure if the others need them to.









I'm going to skip ahead to the suspension, & tracks.
I know there is a problem with the track tension. I think I have an easy solution with parts from the spare parts box.
I don't want to build the rest of the kit only to find out I screwed up and trash the kit.
The next pics should be my correction if it works.
Donald

Well it worked.
This is how I made the D9R wheel assemblies adjustable to allow for adjusting the track tension.

Please hold your comments until I get every thing posted.

#1 From your spare parts box you will need.
4 each Dragon Sherman VVSS drive sprocket Drums,(Tasca can be used also with the sprocket removed.
4 each Dragon Sherman VVSS Return rollers with the hole drilled out with a #41 drill.
2 pieces of 3/32nd. by 1 inch Brass tubing .



#2 For the preliminary assembly you should trim off the flange from the Dragon Sherman sprocket hubs, then insert and glue the return rollers into the end thar you removed the flange from.This will leave a nice straight edge for gluing it to the front section.

#3 With a razor saw separate the front and rear sections, and clean up the cut area. As shown below.

#4 Assemble the front units trapping the main wheels in between with the push pin marks toward the vehicle body. Putty and sand as needed.

#5 Assemble the rear sections according to the instructions, once again keeping the side of the wheel with the push pin marks to the inside.

#6 Score around the end where you made the separation cut, then clean the end flush.



#7 Enlarge the hole in the end with a knife and sanding to allow one of the hub/roller assemblies to slide in and out.





#8 Glue a hub assembly with Brass rod to each of the front sections.

#9 Slide the remaining two hub assemblies on to the brass rod and insert them into the rear sections.



#10 Glue the rear hub assembly to the rear section , be sure not to get glue on the front section or it won't extend.





Be sure to let the glue dry thoroughly with the front end against the rear section to keep the units aligned.

Very well done, sir! I'm saving this now for future reference for my D9 build. Luckily I have tons of spare Dragon M4 parts

Finally install the road wheels, they will just snap in.



Here are the finished units.



This is an easy way I found to install and tension the track.
Of course you could always cut out round discs to spread the front and rear sections, but if you guess the amount you could have even bigger problems. this allows fitting the track easily, then just spread them to the right tension and glue in place.

That's all for now.
Donald

I have finished the track assembly.I know that there are probably many different ways to do it, this is how I built them.


I used an 1/8" square piece of brass tubing to assemble them on.



I started with parts A5 & A6



Slipping on the next pail of links , before gluing the current one.



Continuing on till all 43 links are installed.
That's counting the link made up of A5 & A6 .



Just slide the links dowd the tube as you go.



I used a piece of 1/8" plastic ber to hold the links to the tube , a Brass tube might have worked better, but this is what I had.

Here are the finished link runs. Leave the last link open so the ends may be joined together.



here is a close up of the A5/A6 link.

Now we have the loops, I joined the ends of the link run together before installing the track shoes. I thought it would be easier.



If you do it this way be sure to have the edge with the little pins on the outside. I almost screwed up there.



Note above a really sloppy fit, the track is not adjusted yet.

Now with the track adjusted. (Below)



Making the front part of the wheel assembly adjustable makes it a lot easier to install & adjust the track.

That's all for now.
Donald

Excellent SBS. Looking good!

I have been working on the interior. The following pics. are probably boring, but might be useful to the more in experienced builder. This is how I masked off the exterior of the windows.

First I covered the clear parts with clear plastic mending tape.
I wouldn't recommend regular masking tape as it leaves a sticky residue.




Next trim off the excess to the edge of the window.



Insert clear part into the frame and trim around the opening.



Remove the excess tape.



The ready to use masked part.

Ready for the interior painting.



Have it just press fit together.



No to the painting and detailing.
Donald

The interior is finished.



The fit on the floor in the front isn't very precise.
I started with the back panel and worked my way to the front.
A lot of patience is needed here.
Donald

Hi Donald,

Thanks for this thread. I have been building my D9R slowly over the past few months. Like yourself I found some places where the fit could be just a bit better. But I really like the track tensioning system you developed - I will almost certainly replicate this on my own project.

I am looking forward to seeing more of your build!


Dave

I'm glad you like it Dave.
This is why I am doing this, to help other modelers, not to showoff. I have been modeling for over 50 years. While I am still learning things I like to help.
O by the way, in the IDF section there is an EXCELENT build of the D9R in Israeli service.
Donald

Now to continue, I have completed assembly of the armored cab.
I have 12 Pics. to be posted in 3 groups of 4 pics. each

The last 4 Pics. show the completed cab, except for the fold down platforms which will be added after painting.









Now it's on to the front parts and the blade.
Donald

I have finished the major part of the assembly of this kit.
I have 15 Pics. to post so please bear with me.



There is a lot of filling that is needed on the bottom of the blade, & the arms.



Install Parts D5 & D6 to the ends of D3 before adding the back #D4. If you install D4 first it may be off to one side as the fit is not exact.



These parts need filling as the push pin spots are visible .



The air intake has a screen that wraps around . Just bend the small tab on one end, tuck it in the slot on the side, then bend the screen around and tuck the other end into the same slot. (BE SURE TO DO IT BEFORE INSTALLING IT TO THE BODY)

#E9 & #E10 are reversed on the Instruction sheet.



The Water cans supplied with the kit are rather small, I'm replacing them with some from the spare parts box.

Parts #G12 & #G17 need some bolt heads on their ends.

The following Pics. are of the kit dry fitted together.

Now it's on to the painting, I'll have the final Pics. when it's all finished.
Donald

The painting is moving along, just thought I'd show you the lenses that I'm planning to use.
Donald

Very cool--how are you going to mask the windows?