In this post I am going to talk about tracks. The Trumpeter kit tracks are individual workable links. They are excellent kit tracks- I tried a length of ten tracks and simpley pulled each track off the sprue by hand (obviously they need a bit of sanding before attaching them if you are going to use them) and clicked them together. Despite their size they are easy to fit and sturdy when handled- they will not come apart easily and are nicely detailed on inner and outer surfaces.
So why not use them?
Well that’s a good point- the pros are obvious but there are also downsides to using tracks like these. Firstly they will come apart if handled roughly and some rough handling is sometimes needed to get them to fit onto the actual vehicle. However, the main problem with these tracks comes with the weathering stages- plastic tracks do not take well to enamel based weathering products or any product in fact that uses minerals spirits- it will weaken the plastic and if the tracks are glued together it can weaken the glue joins and make them fall apart. The way to beat this is to not use mineral spirit based products and avoid spirits altoghether when painting and weathering these sort of tracks. You can achieve excellent results using acrylic paints, acrylic washes and dry pigments.
But if you like using enamel products and you want sturdier tracks that will stand up to the harshest weathering then metal tracks are the way to go. There are several companies out there that produce them. For this project I have gone with Fruils…

…which I…
enjoy…at least that’s what I keep telling myself.
You get three bags of links including some that have a slightly rounded link connector (but it is hardly noticeable) for areas where the track will curve around the sprocket and idler areas. You also get a roll of thin wire. In some sets you also get new metal sprockets, but there are none in this kit. The detail on the tracks is as good as you would expect- the only real difference between them and the kit tracks though are that the outer face is deeper and has more raised detail.

It would be great if you could just dive right in and start assembling the tracks but Fruils take a bit of prep work before you even get to that point.
First off I’ll talk about the most important piece of kit for doing metal tracks.

Yes, it’s a bucket. Why a bucket? If you just pop your sanity into the bucket for the duration of building the tracks and keep an eye on where you put it the whole process will go a lot smoother.
So, with that done, each link has to be connected to the next one with the wire- like a track pin on real AFV tracks. The problem is that although each track has a channel through it it will not be wide enough to accept the included wire- so each track has to be drilled out along the channel to accept the wire. Usually a drill bit of around 0.5mm will suffice but be sure the drill bit isn’t so big that it will risk destroying the track link completely- the tracks are metal but it is quite soft and you can easily drill through at an angle if you are not careful.

As you can see here I have a pin vice with a bit in it. This will give you good control over the drilling process. The problem is it will take ages. The first few times I did Fruils I used a pin vice. Then I started carefully using a power drill.

The risk here is that it then becomes very easy indeed to wreck a track link as the power drill will just chew it up. But if you practice it becomes easier and, just as with the pin vice, it all becomes faster once you develop a rhythm.
My drill, like most these days, has a flat bottomed base.

This means that you will be able to drill in a steady fashion without having to support the drill. This is how I hold the track link:

Usually a power drill like this will have multiple speed settings and a fairly responsive trigger meaning you can control it so you get the right amount of power to easily drill a channel but not so much that you wreck the link.
I will say that you will, if you use a power drill, likely wreck some links. Its not that big a deal- there are usually some extra in the kit. With a pin vice you will likely end up wrecking some as well. Its really up to you to use what is comfortable but having done both I can say that working with the power drill is much faster and easier.
Right so now we have a nice even channel through each link ready to accept the wire. Cutting the wire to length can be done in several ways but I’ve always gone with the same technique for cutting (and track assembly) that I saw in a TMMI magazine article a good while ago now.
First thing is to measure a link- then add a few millimetres to that length so that you will have some of the wire left poking out from the side of the link. Then get a drill bit and tape off that measurement on the bit.

Next take a block of wood (an old figure pedestal base is handy here) and drill down to the length taped on the drill bit.Then you can insert the wire and cut at the top of that hole and you have a perfect length of wire to use as a track pin.

Now you need to assemble the tracks. They should go together easily and then it is just a matter of sliding the wire along the channels to connect each link and provide the working pivot. Unfortunately the wire Fruil insist on giving out is not massively strong- it will bend and warp and can be difficult sometimes to force through the channel. On some occasions less pressure and more jiggling about will get the wire through- other times it needs a bit of force. However, if you really hate the wire then you can switch to more durable brass wire- this will not bend nearly as quickly and can be forced through the channel quite easily. Just make sure you have a decent supply of it in the correct size.

Once you have a run of links (I usually assemble ten in one go) it is time to glue the track pin. The best thing to use is low viscosity superglue. Use a paper-clip (or something like it) to place a dab of superglue close to where the wire goes into the channel. Capillary action will draw the glue into the channel and cement the wire in place.

Then simply trim away the excess wire and give the track a bit of a workout to make sure the glue hasn’t messed up the pivot.

And then you just build up the track like that to the required length.
Here is a comparison of a length from the kit tracks and the metal ones:



Don’t forget to get your sanity out of the bucket when the tracks are done.
I also have a list of FAQs that crop up whenever these tracks are being done:
Are they done yet?
How many more links?
Surely that’s too many?
Should I have the chicken or the beef?
Hopefully those will be of some assistance.
I’ll have more on the tracks when I get both runs all built up. I also have some updates on the BMP itself to come soon so stay tuned!
Eritrea: Nationalism and the Emergence of the EPLF
The roots of the Eritrean conflict goes back to the 14th Century AD when the Ethiopian King decided that the two northernmost areas of the country (Tigray and Eritrea) should be divided for administrative purposes. This divide eventually became a kind of permanent boundary after the Italians colonized the area in the 1890s.
Eritrea only became a part of Ethiopia again in 1952. The intervening ‘colonial’ years had seen a great many societal (democratic institutions), cultural (different language and customs) and religious (nearly half the population were Muslim- this clashed with the rather ‘second class citizen’ treatment of Muslims in Ethiopia) changes in the country- ones that saw the Eritreans distance themselves from any perceived Ethiopian identity. The dismantling of their limited autonomy by the Emperor would lead to the creation of the Eritrean Liberation Front (ELF) in exile in Egypt in 1960.
This broadly leftist force modelled itself on many other Arabic and North African liberation movements of the period. Their first ‘attack’ was a kind of bandit raid in 1961 and their insurgency would grow from there. They were not alone in their rebellion but they did crush the only other major force- the Eritrean Liberation Movement (created in exile in Sudan in 1958)- although political factionalism would remain a problem in the ELF for many years to come.
The initial counter-insurgency response by the Ethiopians was somewhat successful but the insurgency grew and acts included the very public destruction of three Ethiopian Airlines planes on the ground in Europe and Pakistan between 1969 and 1970.
Factionalism would eventually split the ELF and produce the Eritrean People’s Liberation Front (EPLF) which had a closer political outlook to Chinese Communism. The new group still fought bitterly with the old and this period is known as the First Civil War in Eritrea. However they did join forces for an important offensive in 1976 that nearly took the entirety of Eritrea from Ethiopian forces- but they failed to take the major cities and in 1978 the Ethiopians, with a revamped military force, pushed them back to the Sahel region.
In 1980 the peace between the two groups would again erupt into warfare and this ‘Second Civil War’ saw the EPLF and the Tigrayan Peoples Liberation Front (TPLF) destroy the ELF. After this the only political and military force in Eritrea was the EPLF.Thanks for reading.