Happy New Year!
I am working on my first model in many years, Tamiya's m41 Bulldog, and I have a question about joining the gun barrel halves. What's the best technique for getting a clean seam? I dry-fitted and cleaned up the edges and then used liquid cement to flow into the joint. I've sanded and cleaned up most of the barrel, but the flash suppressor has a few small gaps and doesnt line up quite right. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks!
-pete-
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Newbie questions...
pmcquain
Florida, United States
Joined: January 02, 2004
KitMaker: 2 posts
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Joined: January 02, 2004
KitMaker: 2 posts
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Posted: Friday, January 02, 2004 - 03:30 AM UTC
kglack43
Alabama, United States
Joined: September 18, 2003
KitMaker: 842 posts
Armorama: 607 posts
Joined: September 18, 2003
KitMaker: 842 posts
Armorama: 607 posts
Posted: Friday, January 02, 2004 - 03:59 AM UTC
First Pete...Welcome to the site....Use a filler, (believe it or not, Bondo will work quiet well...) then you might try shaving some of the area away..sand it and then check the seams and end. There are some other brand fillers made just for modelers. Once the seam and the flash suppressor look good on the OD, then re-drill the holes in the end to bring back to round the ID.
Thats a really great kit for the price, i'm on my second one. Can's beat the M41 for looks and style. Another thing you might notice is the weight of the finished kit seems alittle light. I added some lead weight to mine. In the hull, forward and rear. In the turret rear area. Have fun, take your time. There's alot of source on this kit on the web. Guntruck.com has a great build on this one.
You will also find a few shots of one i'm working on in my gallery.
Again, welcome
Thats a really great kit for the price, i'm on my second one. Can's beat the M41 for looks and style. Another thing you might notice is the weight of the finished kit seems alittle light. I added some lead weight to mine. In the hull, forward and rear. In the turret rear area. Have fun, take your time. There's alot of source on this kit on the web. Guntruck.com has a great build on this one.
You will also find a few shots of one i'm working on in my gallery.
Again, welcome
pmcquain
Florida, United States
Joined: January 02, 2004
KitMaker: 2 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: January 02, 2004
KitMaker: 2 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, January 02, 2004 - 04:19 AM UTC
Trying some putty was my plan, I'm heading to Hoobyland during lunch to grab some, among other goodies .
So far the kit is building well, although I hate to admit that I picked it out by price since it was my first one and I figure it's not going to come out as well as I imagine it will.
I'll set up a gallery and add some in-progress pics later tonight.
-pete-
So far the kit is building well, although I hate to admit that I picked it out by price since it was my first one and I figure it's not going to come out as well as I imagine it will.
I'll set up a gallery and add some in-progress pics later tonight.
-pete-
kkeefe
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,416 posts
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Joined: May 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,416 posts
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Posted: Friday, January 02, 2004 - 07:14 AM UTC
Back when I did those things, I would put a good amount ie: overload the glue surfaces with Liquid Cement, set aside to dry overnight then sand smooth with very fine sand paper. Worked for me.
Oh... welcome aboard Pete! You'll love it here!
Oh... welcome aboard Pete! You'll love it here!
ShermiesRule
Michigan, United States
Joined: December 11, 2003
KitMaker: 5,409 posts
Armorama: 3,777 posts
Joined: December 11, 2003
KitMaker: 5,409 posts
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Posted: Friday, January 02, 2004 - 02:21 PM UTC
While it may cost a little more don't forget the option to buy a turned barrel
greatbrit
United Kingdom
Joined: May 14, 2003
KitMaker: 2,127 posts
Armorama: 1,217 posts
Joined: May 14, 2003
KitMaker: 2,127 posts
Armorama: 1,217 posts
Posted: Friday, January 02, 2004 - 08:33 PM UTC
the tips the other guys have mentioned are all great,
the filler method is the one i most use, just line up the barrel halves as best as you can, the apply a little filler( i use miliput) to the seam, let dry overnight, and sand with some wet and dry paper,
take care to not alter the profile of the barrel, its all to easy to make and oval barrle if you sand it too much!
the turned metal barrel option is also a good one, and almost always gives near perfect results, they arent too expensive either,
if your modelling on a budget, they are one of the few aftermarket items id recommend,
cheers
joe
the filler method is the one i most use, just line up the barrel halves as best as you can, the apply a little filler( i use miliput) to the seam, let dry overnight, and sand with some wet and dry paper,
take care to not alter the profile of the barrel, its all to easy to make and oval barrle if you sand it too much!
the turned metal barrel option is also a good one, and almost always gives near perfect results, they arent too expensive either,
if your modelling on a budget, they are one of the few aftermarket items id recommend,
cheers
joe
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 03, 2004 - 06:07 AM UTC
I did a rundown for someone on the FSM website about some of the budget improvements that can be done to this kit. It was one of my favorite kits to build in my younger days:
Quoted Text
There is/was a lot of aftermarket available for this kit. That is until AFV Club and Skybow both released superb kits of the exact same tank. I have all three of the M41 Walker Bulldog kits and just about all aftermarket that was made for the Tamiya kit. Don't waste the money on the various AM sets for the Tamiya kit, one or two items will cost as much as one of the better kits.
Since you are short on funds, I'll give a reader's digest version of some items that can be improved with little or no expense.
1. Blank off the undersides of the sponson boxes (underside of fender boxes) with simple sheet styrene.
2. Notice in the box art that the sides of the center sponson boxes have X shaped strengthening imprints. Using the box art and top of the sponson box relief as a guide, carefully scribe the X with a sharp knife or other scribing instrument. Once you have the X groove, use a source of heat to stretch some sprue to fit into the groove. Cut to size and use liquid cement to attach.
3. The forward sponson boxes just have a series of vertical strengthening ribs, use the same techique to add them as well. (Box art shows tank with turret over rear)
4. Blank off the motorization holes on the underside of the lower hull and around the final drive housing of the drive sprocket. Also on the sides of the hull are some holes that need to be filled. Place the interior bulkhead first.
5. The outer sprocket half should have 4 lightening holes in them, but the recess is too shallow to add them. The compensating idler wheel should also have lightening holes in the rim (see box art), but only add them if you think you can do it and make them look even (I'd omit this too).
6. I'd consider replacing the tool rack with something from the parts box. Same deal with the 5 gal. cans and the .50 cal machine gun.
7. To detail out the driver's vision blocks, I'd fill the gap with something simple like Elmer's white glue and paint the face gloss black when dry.
8. The actual headlight guards are flat pieces of metal welded together, you can carefully sand them down to a more appropriate scale thickness or you can find some scrape pieces of photoetch fret to cut to size and replicate.
9. One thing I would consider spending some money on would be replacement tracks. I'm not talking about high-priced individual links, but AFV Club makes a set of vinyl tracks #AF 35052 that run about $7-8. The kit tracks have no detail on the inner surface except for a token center guide (guide teeth). Also if you put out a want ad on various model forums, someone may have a set of the vinyl tracks that came with their AFV Club kit that they subsequently replaced with the AFV Club single link tracks. Those are #AF 35046 and run about $14-15 a set.
Posted: Saturday, January 03, 2004 - 06:18 AM UTC
I do the "add extra cement and squeeze until some soft plastic squeezes out" trick as well. Then I wait until the next day and sand smooth. If there is any gaps I fill with humbrol putty. I use aceton-free nail polish remover to wipe away the excess. This is a great trick. For full explanation see roadkills homepage... in his tips section. Thats where I heard it first and use it all the time. If the gap is small or some small tracks you could also use tipex/white-out. When dry, sand it down. Dont like this method too much but its OK for barrells where there is no detail.
The aceton-free nail polish remover is excellent with putty. Remeber acceton free as the acceton will melt plastic.
The aceton-free nail polish remover is excellent with putty. Remeber acceton free as the acceton will melt plastic.