AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Opinions on Mr Surfacer Primer 1200
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 - 01:07 AM UTC
I picked up a jar of this at a convention, last year. I have yet to try it. Do I need to thin it for air brushing? I assume it fills small gaps and went with 1200 to cut down on it washing out the detail. What pressure is recommended for spraying? Thanks guys and gals.
Tojo72
North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 - 01:58 AM UTC
Never tried the jar stuff,but I used the 1200 in the can,liked it,basically the same as thr Tamiya Fine in the can.
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 - 02:28 AM UTC
Unfortunately, I have no experience with Tamiya primers.
Lisec
Croatia Hrvatska
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Posted: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 - 07:48 AM UTC
You can thin it more if you like, to use it as a primer with their thinner or use it straight from the jar to cover up some blemishes.
I recommend you to try it as is if you have a light hand and do it in coats, works fine for me
I recommend you to try it as is if you have a light hand and do it in coats, works fine for me
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 - 07:58 AM UTC
Time to break out the practice kit.
chumpo
United States
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Posted: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 - 03:06 PM UTC
You can thin it down with Mr Color thinner , add a bit of Mr Retarder mild and it's a great primer , after it cure it's durable and take the handling with no problems . Only drawback is the smell , it bothers a lot of people , but if it does not bother you it's a great primer . They also make this in black and a red oxide color .
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 - 03:16 PM UTC
I have to do all of my spraying outside, so the smell is non-issue.
chumpo
United States
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Posted: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 - 04:10 PM UTC
I won't go as far as saying is the best primer , but in my opinion it's pretty darn good , it's great for filling cracks and stuff like those . Since we all do things different you will have to play with it to get to know it . Any lacquer thinner will work but I believe their own brand is the best one to use . It's a bear to brush paint but will simulate the cast texture on armor and any mistakes can easily be erased with the thinner .
gaborka
Borsod-Abauj-Zemblen, Hungary
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Posted: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 - 07:14 PM UTC
I use Surfacer 1200 regularly and I like it very much. You definitely need to thin it with Mr Color Thinner (dark blue label) to the consistency of skim milk. Also you must watch the air pressure, at a pressure too high the surfacer will create thin threads like a spider web and a fuzzy surface so you might need to experiment a little first. I spray it at 12-15PSi normally.
If you want it to dry rock hard you need to keep it at a dry warm place or use a dryer (or a light bulb).
Also lately black and primer red (mahogany) colored Surfacers have been available that might be useful for armor.
If you want it to dry rock hard you need to keep it at a dry warm place or use a dryer (or a light bulb).
Also lately black and primer red (mahogany) colored Surfacers have been available that might be useful for armor.
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 - 01:14 AM UTC
Thank you for all of the advice. Unfortunately, the weather here is quite humid. Hopefully, next week will be better.
SdAufKla
South Carolina, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 - 06:17 AM UTC
I've never airbrushed it, but I use it all the time brushed out of the bottle as light duty filler. I keep my bottle on my building bench.
I use a pointed, nylon bristle brush to apply it and ordinary lacquer thinner to clean the brush afterwards.
So, no advice on using it as a primer, but as a filler, it works well - dries hard and sands-buffs to a smooth feathered edge. I can say for sure that ordinary lacquer thinner will reduce it.
HTH
I use a pointed, nylon bristle brush to apply it and ordinary lacquer thinner to clean the brush afterwards.
So, no advice on using it as a primer, but as a filler, it works well - dries hard and sands-buffs to a smooth feathered edge. I can say for sure that ordinary lacquer thinner will reduce it.
HTH
Blackstoat
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 - 07:04 AM UTC
Used it, sprayed it, thought it was ok. Personally I didn't find it much better than my automotive rattle can for use as a primer.
yes, thin with lacquer thinner, keep the ab close to the subject otherwise it'll dry before it hits the surface, and clean the ab as soon as you're done (it's a @$##$$&£€ to shift if it starts to dry)
Andy
yes, thin with lacquer thinner, keep the ab close to the subject otherwise it'll dry before it hits the surface, and clean the ab as soon as you're done (it's a @$##$$&£€ to shift if it starts to dry)
Andy
chumpo
United States
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Posted: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 - 01:11 PM UTC
It's not as sensitive to humidity as you think it might be , it just take a bit longer to cure . If you get any imperfections in the finish let it cure and then hit it with a wet sand paper and it will knock off the imperfections . Mr Retarder mild or the yellow labeled mr color thinner is a definite help to spray it . I believe you get better control with an airbrush versus the rattle can . But it is available in aerosol if that's what you prefer .
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 - 01:34 PM UTC
Since I already have a bottle, I think I will stick with that. I'm only looking to fill very fine gaps. For larger ones, I use white glue or auto body putty(depending on the size). Purely as a primer, I am not too concerned. As I mentioned, I bought it to fill fine gaps. Good to hear about the humidity. I realize I can spray outside, then let it dry indoors. I have a selection of lacquers thinners, from generic to Tamiya to Floquil.
chumpo
United States
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Posted: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 - 02:30 PM UTC
I have not tried to use Tamiya lacquer thinner on mr hobby products , anybody out ever tried that ? I remember asking that question and I believe I never got any replies .
VinhLuong
Vietnam
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Posted: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 - 04:43 PM UTC
My friend, with Mr. Surfacer 1200, you can use your brush to fill the gap (without thinning) and then fine it with sandpapers. I always use this method to ease myself and save time.
chumpo
United States
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Posted: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 - 04:55 PM UTC
Quoted Text
. Yes , but your method requires a steady hand and a fine eye . My friend, with Mr. Surfacer 1200, you can use your brush to fill the gap (without thinning) and then fine it with sandpapers. I always use this method to ease myself and save time.
Antoon3103
Antwerpen, Belgium
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Posted: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 - 05:34 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I have not tried to use Tamiya lacquer thinner on mr hobby products , anybody out ever tried that ? I remember asking that question and I believe I never got any replies .
Hi,
I always thin Gunze acrylics with the yellow cap Tamiya laquer thinner. Works perfect for me.
I also do it for the Mr surfacer 1200 and 1500 in the bottle.
I dilute to about 70% thinner to surfacer to get some very thin coats.
HTH
Tony
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 01:12 AM UTC
Does it bond well to metal, such as etch? I can always spray with self etching primer, first(this is what I normally use).
chumpo
United States
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Posted: Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 03:48 PM UTC
Thanks Tony , now I know . I bought some Mr metal primer but Mr Surfacer works fine on metals with out the primer .