Hi

Been waiting for this to come up on the Armorama news feed for a while, but I haven't noticed it.

Personally I think it's one of the most exciting things I've seen paint-wise for a while.

http://www.ak-interactive.com/ecomm/?acc=Catalog&sacc=view&IDCat=&p=&idp=5557&idc=1#.VDjjYfldUXw

Andy

I wonder how these hold up against Alclad.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JBLLLZUjvLo

wow, looks great!

Looks really good especially the ease it seems to be applied.

I hate to burst any bubbles (sorry AK-I), but this product has been available for decades, and used by modeler's at least since the 1970's (when I first started using it).

Amaco Rub'n Buff. Comes in at least 10-12 different metallic colors for about US$5 a tube.

It used to be widely known and mentioned in modeling articles in magazines, etc, but like many "old school" products and techniques, it fell out of vogue. Old guys stopped talking about it, and new guys didn't learn about it.

I use Silver Rub'n Buff all the time for highlights on tracks and metal drive train components like drive sprocket teeth. I apply it with bits of makeup sponges.

You can probably buy Rub'n Buff at your local Walmart or the nearest big-box craft supply store, like Michaels, Hobby Lobby, or AC Moore.

It's easy to find on line:

Dick Blick::Amaco Rub'n Buff

You can often find it in the large home improvement stores, like Lowes or Home Depot, in the same area where the stains and antiquing / faux finish supplies are stocked.

So many of the "new" weathering and finishing products are the exact same products that have been around for years, just repackaged.

And so it goes...

I agree Mike
I have had a tube around for decades.

Cheers Rob.

Yep me too.. It's not new

Looks like good stuff,might have to try it.Thanks for posting.

Ok boys, just because you're old enough to remember the paint they used for cave painting, no need to get your knickers in a twist. It's new to me and quite a few other people!

Jeez

Nobody's knickers are in a twist (except perhaps yours).

Just pointing out that there's nothing new about the product except the packaging.

Anyone here in the US should be able to pick up a tube of Rub'n Buff locally for less than US$5, but the AK-I product will run about US$7 + shipping.

If you're somewhere that Rub'n Buff is not available, then maybe the AK-I product will be your only option or maybe not. It might be worth checking out sources for crafting and furniture supplies to see if you can find the comparable local product.

However, if you feel that you must fling insults at those making the observation, well... What else is there to say?

I have never heard of rub and buff, but i will keep an eye out for the product. The paint like this I really miss is the Metalcote line that Humbrol used to do.

AK has a better selection.

No,
They do not.

Cheers Rob.

lol. I've taken the precaution of going commando :-). So my knickers are fully untwisted

Good luck you guys, you'll need it when your wife catches you in the spare room with a tube of "rub n buff" ;-)

just thought it was interesting that's all, I didn't know about it, and it sounds like a lot of other people didn't either.

One question for the cave painters . How is it as a base layer for chipping etc?

No steel, aluminum, brass. Just four types of gold.

Come on guys, why argue.
Just choose whatever product you think is the best for you

I think it's great that AK brings useful products "back" to the market. It's also great that there are experienced modelers like Mike that can share knowledge with us and let us know there are alternatives ou there.

Personally i ordered some of the AK paint since its more available for me. Looking forward to trying it out!

/J

Seeing the video reminded me of Rub'n'Buff as well. My only contact with it has been reading about it in a now-almost-legendary Finnish modeling book from the mid-80's.
It's been years since I last loaned the book from the library, but I the book mentioned that the durability of Rub'n'Buff could be better. I hope the AK products are an improvement on this area. The polished finish of the pastes look really good on the Youtube video.

I know it brightens up the antelope and buffalo paintings, and it adds a certain, je ne sais quoi, highlights to the spear and arrow points.

However, I've never seen it used as an overall finish, much less as a finish under "hairspray" chipping. There may have been some aircraft modeler or another that's given that a try, so maybe some inquiries in the airplane forums will turn up some answers.

In regards to the durability of Rub'n Buff (and almost just as surely for the AK-I products - they're both Carnauba wax based), remember just what these are - waxes. How hard and durable is any colored wax finish? I'd rate the durability of Rub'n Buff at about the same as the finish on a pair of spit-shined boots. It's easily scratched and can be affected by heat (even strong sun light or a hot car).

Once it dries, Rub'n Buff can be over coated with clear finishes. However, enamel and lacquer clears, if sprayed heavily, will cause the wax to slightly dissolve and lose much of its high shine. Acrylic clear coats (like Future floor wax) won't cause the wax to lift, but the result is similar to a protective clear coat over Alclad or Metallizer finishes.

The product's strength is its high gloss and shine once applied and buffed. Its weaknesses are that it must be applied heavy enough to form a smooth surface after buffing and a lack of durability (again, it is just a wax). It's also easily affected by mineral spirits, turps, alcohols, or lacquer thinners. It doesn't stick well to raw or bare plastic, hence AK-I's advice to apply it over a primer.

The initial application can be controlled by using brushes, and I usually use bits of makeup sponge cut to the exact size of the area I'm working in held with cross-locking tweezers. The sponge can also be used to buff the product as it dries. It does have a tendency to spread as it's being buffed, so care has to be taken to avoid getting in unwanted places.

Its best appearance is when applied, buffed and left un-coated. And my main use is just for highlights on bare metal areas of tracks and other suspension parts. Even then, I find that it's often "too shiny" and will tone it down with a light matt over spray.

Although hard to see, the bare metal areas between the guide teeth on these tracks were done using silver Rub'n Buff. They have been toned down some with a "dust glaze" overspray followed by Testors Dull Coat.



Beyond that, you'll have to experiment.

Now, back to my cave walls...

They are right. I dug up one of my early cave painting books and Rub 'n Buff is mentioned.



Even made it on the cover...



Cheers

Thanks Mike

Was that published on papyrus or colored clay tablets? Cuniform or hyroglyphics?

That's what us old timers call an eco-friendly, self charging, manually operated e-reader.

Kimmo

It does provide good effect, but I'm not sure how I would incorporate it into an armor build. There just is not enough exposed metal to justify the labor, however light, of applying and polishing the paint. It appears to be a very nice product, though.