_GOTOBOTTOM
Armor/AFV: Modern - USA
Modern Armor, AFVs, and Support vehicles.
Hosted by Darren Baker
M109A6- AFV Club tracks
Cookie
Visit this Community
Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
Joined: September 21, 2003
KitMaker: 588 posts
Armorama: 490 posts
Posted: Monday, October 13, 2014 - 11:21 AM UTC
Help
I'm working on the AFV separate track links for my Italeri M109A6 Its driving me mad. Anyone got any tips to make it easier and quicker. At this rate I'll be finished by new year.
Thanks
HeavyArty
Visit this Community
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Monday, October 13, 2014 - 11:58 AM UTC
Firstly, AFV Clubs tracks are incorrect for an M109A6 Paladin. They are T-136 tracks used on M108s through M109A5s. The M109A6 uses T-154 tracks, available from Riich Model as indi-links.



The difference is the the placement of the center guide tooth and the guard around the track pad. On the T-136 tracks, the guard is around the whole pad and the center guide is in the center of the track block. On the T-154 tracks, the guard is only on the front corners and the center guide is offset to the front of the track pad.

T-154s


To make them easier to assemble, leave the end connectors on the sprues and attach the blocks to the, They are correctly spaced to slide on them.
L33tg33k
Visit this Community
Michigan, United States
Joined: February 16, 2013
KitMaker: 28 posts
Armorama: 22 posts
Posted: Monday, October 13, 2014 - 12:06 PM UTC
I built the same set awhile back for my 109a6. leave the end connectors on the sprue, but snip the sprue from the main tree. They are spaced the correct distance to insert the track blocks . remove the track blocks from the sprue and clean. this is the most time consuming part. Then insert the track blocks into the end connectors. when done with one side of the track run, slip the other end connector sprue onto the other side. press together firmly yet carefully. repeat as necessary. USE NO GLUE! Im not sure how many are needed per track run but i suggest you make them all then fit to the suspension to get the proper sag. The top run should just BARELY rest on top of the roadwheels. these are the easiest to adjust for sag I've found outside of a expensive set of friulmodel tracks. once they are built, you can slip them off the suspension or "break track" by removing 1 set of end connectors to seperate and then reconnect them for painting.
Sorry if I confused you. let me know if you need clairfication.
 _GOTOTOP