Hi DJ,

Take a look at this build I am doing, the bottom photos show the rounds. If you like them, what I did was mix Apple Barrel craft paint gold with Vallejo Steel. Smooth and shiny without looking like gold leaf!

http://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/226040&page=1

Try slapping some clear cotte on them after they dry.

Google some photos for "Alclad Polished Brass".

Pricey but pretty great stuff.

Jeff

I saw someone had posted somewhere on the site that, brass being as scarce as it was in late-war Germany, the Germans were making their ammo from steel instead. If you're after accuracy, you may want to check into what the appropraite color should be. [For my part, I tend to favor visual interest--within the realm of plausible--over strict accuracy.]

There are a few types of rub-on or self-adhesive gold leaf foil that might give you the look you're after at a fraction of the cost and effort of Alclad.

DJ,
Think back to those 105mm rounds that you fired off of your then new to you M1 at Yano Range in 1988...

I used Vallejo black gray as a base coat and rubbed some AK Dark Steel pigment to give the casing their metallic sheen...

John

Ak-interactive have released a new series of metal wax. Haven't tried it myself though. Saw a video on youtube and it looked pretty good.
http://www.ak-interactive.com/ecomm/?acc=Catalog&sacc=view&IDCat=&p=&idp=5554&idc=1

I am doing the Tamiya Nashorn. Marvelous kit with both expended and new ammo rounds. I used MM Brass paint and I am not getting that shiny effect. How do you attain that finish on the rounds?
Thanks
DJ

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I am doing the Tamiya Nashorn. Marvelous kit with both expended and new ammo rounds. I used MM Brass paint and I am not getting that shiny effect. How do you attain that finish on the rounds?
Thanks
DJ

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Brass or gold model paints have relatively coarse metal particles, that don't look right for scale polished brass. The buffable metallics sold for aircraft modelers are a better bet, though an alternative (if you can find it) is gold printer's ink. It can be thinned with enamel thinner.
The buffable metallic wax mentioned above has been sold in the US under the brand name Rub 'n' Buff for decades. It's available at arts and crafts stores, and comes in a wide range of colors. Not widely known is that it, too, can be thinned with enamel thinner and brushed on. I used to use the silver for worn steel. It can lose its luster over time, though.

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DJ,
Think back to those 105mm rounds that you fired off of your then new to you M1 at Yano Range in 1988...

I used Vallejo black gray as a base coat and rubbed some AK Dark Steel pigment to give the casing their metallic sheen...

John

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DJ,
I don't know of the particulars of the 88mm casings in 1944... I used Dave Parker's efforts in the interior of his Tiger B as my reference when I did a 1946 Paper Panzer model that sported a 88mm gun.

John

John-- did the German in the 1944 period use metallic rounds or brass?
thanks
DJ

Ah, yes, Yano Range.....where those hoodlums of yours finally (finally) qualified

DJ Judge,

To add to the multitude of products already mentioned - Lifecolor produces a set of acrylic paints for "Guns and Weapons" which includes a "reflecting agent". You apparently mix it in with your paint and when it's dry you have to rub it a bit to buff up the color to give it a metallic sheen. The more you rub the more prominent the effect.

http://www.snmstuff.co.uk/lifecolor-guns-weapons-set-22ml-x-6/

Haven't tried it myself though yet.

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I am doing the Tamiya Nashorn. Marvelous kit with both expended and new ammo rounds. I used MM Brass paint and I am not getting that shiny effect. How do you attain that finish on the rounds?
Thanks
DJ

---

Brass or gold model paints have relatively coarse metal particles, that don't look right for scale polished brass. The buffable metallics sold for aircraft modelers are a better bet, though an alternative (if you can find it) is gold printer's ink. It can be thinned with enamel thinner.
The buffable metallic wax mentioned above has been sold in the US under the brand name Rub 'n' Buff for decades. It's available at arts and crafts stores, and comes in a wide range of colors. Not widely known is that it, too, can be thinned with enamel thinner and brushed on. I used to use the silver for worn steel. It can lose its luster over time, though.

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I appreciate your input. Are you saying that late war Germany produced metallic versus brass casings for ammunition?

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I am doing the Tamiya Nashorn. Marvelous kit with both expended and new ammo rounds. I used MM Brass paint and I am not getting that shiny effect. How do you attain that finish on the rounds?
Thanks
DJ

---

Brass or gold model paints have relatively coarse metal particles, that don't look right for scale polished brass. The buffable metallics sold for aircraft modelers are a better bet, though an alternative (if you can find it) is gold printer's ink. It can be thinned with enamel thinner.
The buffable metallic wax mentioned above has been sold in the US under the brand name Rub 'n' Buff for decades. It's available at arts and crafts stores, and comes in a wide range of colors. Not widely known is that it, too, can be thinned with enamel thinner and brushed on. I used to use the silver for worn steel. It can lose its luster over time, though.

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I appreciate your input. Are you saying that late war Germany produced metallic versus brass casings for ammunition?

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I was referring to gold-tone metallics to depict brass, though in the latter half of the war, German artillery and tank ammunition used steel rather than brass cartridge cases. It was heavily greased to prevent rust. I don't have an exact date for its introduction, but it was certainly in use in 1944-45. Old stocks of ammunition would undoubtedly be mixed with new at times, so both types might be seen on the same vehicle.

Rust-o-Leum Bright Coat can be found at almost any hardware store and major retail stores. The pigment is so fine, it is invisible. I actually try to tone it down some, as it almost looks too shiny.