Hi, everyone. Long time lurker, first time contributor. Here's a kit I just finished up today. Dragon's 6285 - 1:35 Jägdtiger with Henschel running gear.
I wasn't after perfect historical accuracy. Just wanted to do a fun build with some character. It's built mostly out of the box with the exception of an RB Model barrel because Dragon discontinued their metal barrel in this kit. I snagged a couple of PE tool clamps (left side of superstructure) from a leftover fret from Dragon's 6252 Tiger kit. And, the clevis on the tow shackle was liberated from their Ferdinand kit.
Constructive criticism welcome.
Hosted by Darren Baker
1:35 Dragon Jägdtiger
Gewehr43
Michigan, United States
Joined: May 12, 2014
KitMaker: 105 posts
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Joined: May 12, 2014
KitMaker: 105 posts
Armorama: 68 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 12:32 AM UTC
Tojo72
North Carolina, United States
Joined: June 06, 2006
KitMaker: 4,691 posts
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Joined: June 06, 2006
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Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 01:08 AM UTC
very nice techniques,the camo,the fading and weathering and the tracks all look great.
gastec
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: February 03, 2014
KitMaker: 1,042 posts
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Joined: February 03, 2014
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Armorama: 871 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 01:13 AM UTC
Very nice indeed Charles. You captured a well used look without going over the top. Well done.
Only thing, for me, that lets it down is the bow MG. It really needs the end of the muzzle drilled out!
Gary
Only thing, for me, that lets it down is the bow MG. It really needs the end of the muzzle drilled out!
Gary
210cav
Virginia, United States
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
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Joined: February 05, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 01:14 AM UTC
Charles-- very nice work, the rust effect on the track and tow cables is impressive. How did you do it?
thanks
DJ
thanks
DJ
pablo_g
Wojewodztwo Slaskie, Poland
Joined: October 21, 2003
KitMaker: 529 posts
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Joined: October 21, 2003
KitMaker: 529 posts
Armorama: 500 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 01:14 AM UTC
Very cool, I like it. But also built it in the winter camo.
Paweł
Paweł
Gewehr43
Michigan, United States
Joined: May 12, 2014
KitMaker: 105 posts
Armorama: 68 posts
Joined: May 12, 2014
KitMaker: 105 posts
Armorama: 68 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 01:21 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Charles-- very nice work, the rust effect on the track and tow cables is impressive. How did you do it?
thanks
DJ
DJ, thanks for the feedback. The answer is pastels! The cables were primed with flat black from a rattle can. Then, I washed them with various shades of rust using ground pastel chalk and turpentine. I more or less did the same thing for the tracks too.
Quoted Text
Only thing, for me, that lets it down is the bow MG. It really needs the end of the muzzle drilled out!
Gary
Thanks, Gary. I appreciate the feedback. A valid point for sure... not something I've ever had much luck with. I'll try it on a couple other test pieces in the spares box, then give it a go on this one.
AFVFan
North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 17, 2012
KitMaker: 1,980 posts
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Joined: May 17, 2012
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Armorama: 1,571 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 10:48 AM UTC
Nicely done, overall, Charles. You did a bang up job, barring a few overlooked items. First, there should be a difference on the inner track showing where the road wheels are riding. Also, there should be signs of polished wear on the guide teeth and the sprockets. The third item I saw is that the edges of the fenders where there are missing segments should be thinned a bit to get them in scale. In the same area, the holes in the fender mounts of the missing sections should be drilled out, or at least have bolt heads showing. Speaking of the fenders and looking at the 3rd from the last pic, you need to be mindful of your fender placement. The bolt heads of the shown sections should line up with the open holes of the missing ones (I know, I know, that's getting really picky, but you did ask
;) ).
A few of these items can easily be added to your build. Some of the rest just need to be filed away for the next time.
Gary mentioned the MG barrel(s) already. A helpful hint I use is to heat a needle and lightly poke it in the center of the barrel to act as a guide hole for your bit. Just be careful not to go too deep with the pin as it will flare out the end too much.
One last comment that I'm not certain of from the pics. It looks like you painted the handles on the wire cutters as if they were wood. If so, that needs to be changed. Those handles were made out of bakelite and should be more of a burnt sienna in color.
HTH
;) ).
A few of these items can easily be added to your build. Some of the rest just need to be filed away for the next time.
Gary mentioned the MG barrel(s) already. A helpful hint I use is to heat a needle and lightly poke it in the center of the barrel to act as a guide hole for your bit. Just be careful not to go too deep with the pin as it will flare out the end too much.
One last comment that I'm not certain of from the pics. It looks like you painted the handles on the wire cutters as if they were wood. If so, that needs to be changed. Those handles were made out of bakelite and should be more of a burnt sienna in color.
HTH
griffontech
Canada
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 237 posts
Armorama: 231 posts
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 237 posts
Armorama: 231 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 11:58 AM UTC
Very nice work.
Damn, now I gotta finish mine.
Damn, now I gotta finish mine.
Gewehr43
Michigan, United States
Joined: May 12, 2014
KitMaker: 105 posts
Armorama: 68 posts
Joined: May 12, 2014
KitMaker: 105 posts
Armorama: 68 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 06:35 PM UTC
Thanks for the compliments, guys.
Good info all around. I did weather the sprocket teeth, but overlooked the wheel runs. Chalk it up to inexperience. I'll address it on the next build.
Nice tip on the hot pin to create the pilot hole for the drill.
As this one is just bound for my desk at work, I think I'll call her done and add your points to the list of stuff to keep in mind for the next round. Thanks!
Quoted Text
Nicely done, overall, Charles. You did a bang up job, barring a few overlooked items. First, there should be a difference on the inner track showing where the road wheels are riding. Also, there should be signs of polished wear on the guide teeth and the sprockets. The third item I saw is that the edges of the fenders where there are missing segments should be thinned a bit to get them in scale. In the same area, the holes in the fender mounts of the missing sections should be drilled out, or at least have bolt heads showing. Speaking of the fenders and looking at the 3rd from the last pic, you need to be mindful of your fender placement. The bolt heads of the shown sections should line up with the open holes of the missing ones (I know, I know, that's getting really picky, but you did ask
;) ).
A few of these items can easily be added to your build. Some of the rest just need to be filed away for the next time.
Gary mentioned the MG barrel(s) already. A helpful hint I use is to heat a needle and lightly poke it in the center of the barrel to act as a guide hole for your bit. Just be careful not to go too deep with the pin as it will flare out the end too much.
One last comment that I'm not certain of from the pics. It looks like you painted the handles on the wire cutters as if they were wood. If so, that needs to be changed. Those handles were made out of bakelite and should be more of a burnt sienna in color.
HTH
Good info all around. I did weather the sprocket teeth, but overlooked the wheel runs. Chalk it up to inexperience. I'll address it on the next build.
Nice tip on the hot pin to create the pilot hole for the drill.
As this one is just bound for my desk at work, I think I'll call her done and add your points to the list of stuff to keep in mind for the next round. Thanks!
Giovanni1508
Napoli, Italy
Joined: April 17, 2014
KitMaker: 652 posts
Armorama: 600 posts
Joined: April 17, 2014
KitMaker: 652 posts
Armorama: 600 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 07:01 PM UTC
Hi Charles,
It is really awesome ! Great job !
Giovanni1508
Napoli, Italy
Joined: April 17, 2014
KitMaker: 652 posts
Armorama: 600 posts
Joined: April 17, 2014
KitMaker: 652 posts
Armorama: 600 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 07:05 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Gary mentioned the MG barrel(s) already. A helpful hint I use is to heat a needle and lightly poke it in the center of the barrel to act as a guide hole for your bit. Just be careful not to go too deep with the pin as it will flare out the end too much.
One last comment that I'm not certain of from the pics. It looks like you painted the handles on the wire cutters as if they were wood. If so, that needs to be changed. Those handles were made out of bakelite and should be more of a burnt sienna in color.
HTH
You're right ! I'll keep in mind for my baby Jagdtiger in progress...
abbatoys
Michigan, United States
Joined: October 12, 2014
KitMaker: 38 posts
Armorama: 22 posts
Joined: October 12, 2014
KitMaker: 38 posts
Armorama: 22 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 07:09 PM UTC
I am impressed. Working on my first one and will be more than happy if it is close to yours...
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
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Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 08:55 PM UTC
Charles N.;
Good-looking JT! Lots of great stuff going on here - way to GO (Geaux, down here in Cajun-land )!
I'm glad to see there's another guy out there who likes the pastel chalks and turps route for rusting and staining! Of course, chalks are "wunderbar" for doing dust and dirt, too!
Other folks have hit on several minor "dings" - MG drill-out, "bakelite" (Tuffnel - a German version made with impregnating cardboard with resin to create a non-conductive insulating tool-handle) in a red-orange color, thinning some fender/cover edges, etc.
The teeth on your sprockets really want to be scraped/polished metal (you may well have done this, but it does not show in the pics...) and that similar metal-on-metal polishing on the inner surfaces and teeth on the tracks as well. This is EASY to fix up on any kit! Grab your fav sharpened #2 pencil and apply a little graphite to get a nice rubbed steel surface! Great for hi-lighting - even after the fact - any rubbed "metal" edge or surface. And because you are applying some finely - polishing matter, it will smooth a surface realistically!
I liked the tools in general - nicely-done! There is one glaring "not": the cleaning - rods were wood with metal ends which screwed together - these are molded onto the bits. The wood shafts could of course be painted or varnished, the metal bits "aluminum", "steel", or painted.
Overall, very cool and impressive! I need to pull one of these down and build it! Thanks for sharing this monster!
Bob
Good-looking JT! Lots of great stuff going on here - way to GO (Geaux, down here in Cajun-land )!
I'm glad to see there's another guy out there who likes the pastel chalks and turps route for rusting and staining! Of course, chalks are "wunderbar" for doing dust and dirt, too!
Other folks have hit on several minor "dings" - MG drill-out, "bakelite" (Tuffnel - a German version made with impregnating cardboard with resin to create a non-conductive insulating tool-handle) in a red-orange color, thinning some fender/cover edges, etc.
The teeth on your sprockets really want to be scraped/polished metal (you may well have done this, but it does not show in the pics...) and that similar metal-on-metal polishing on the inner surfaces and teeth on the tracks as well. This is EASY to fix up on any kit! Grab your fav sharpened #2 pencil and apply a little graphite to get a nice rubbed steel surface! Great for hi-lighting - even after the fact - any rubbed "metal" edge or surface. And because you are applying some finely - polishing matter, it will smooth a surface realistically!
I liked the tools in general - nicely-done! There is one glaring "not": the cleaning - rods were wood with metal ends which screwed together - these are molded onto the bits. The wood shafts could of course be painted or varnished, the metal bits "aluminum", "steel", or painted.
Overall, very cool and impressive! I need to pull one of these down and build it! Thanks for sharing this monster!
Bob
easyco69
Ontario, Canada
Joined: November 03, 2012
KitMaker: 2,275 posts
Armorama: 2,233 posts
Joined: November 03, 2012
KitMaker: 2,275 posts
Armorama: 2,233 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 09:06 PM UTC
beauty!
Gewehr43
Michigan, United States
Joined: May 12, 2014
KitMaker: 105 posts
Armorama: 68 posts
Joined: May 12, 2014
KitMaker: 105 posts
Armorama: 68 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 - 01:26 AM UTC
You know, Bob, I debated long and hard about the cleaning rods. I *thought* they were wood with metal tips, but the directions insisted on painting them black. I assumed Dragon knew something I didn't. Apparently, they just mucked up the paint call out.