I have been using Tamiya rattle can grey primer, but would like to try a good airbrush primer. I have heard good things about AK interactive. If this primer is acrylic, is it as strong as emamel or laquer based primers as far as bite is concerned? Why does it have better bite than other acrylic primers such as Vallejo. Any information as to other modellers experience with AK primer would be greatly appreciated.

Paul

I haven't found anything better than self-etching primer. If you want something sprayable, Mr. Surfacer primer.
AK has a better bite, than other acrylic primers and sprays easily oob.

Hi Paul,

Nothing wrong with wanting to give the acrylic side of things a try.

First thing you want to remember is acrylics are a completely different animal than the enamels. Acrylics will perform with the same durable results as the enamels if they are allowed time to cure. While the acrylics dry almost instantly after their application, typically a 12 to 24 hour window for curing is recommended. Does this mean you have to wait? No.

Avoiding excess handling while spraying will be the way to reduce removing the acrylic primer from the surface before it cures. I have been working with Vallejo primers and paints on technical support and the #2 on the complaint list after clogging tips is the primer "not biting" or that it peels off.

Curing....if the paint is allowed to cure it is hard as nails and have proved this many times. One big misconception with priming is a heavy coating. a couple of light coats of primer is all that is needed to seal the surface before painting. There is more chances of the paint not biting the thicker the coat...not to mention the cure time will be longer. I did make a video recently and in the beginning, I show how I apply thin, layered priming coat - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chNjDRxUSIY

Addressing the #1 complaint, clogging of the tip...this all comes down to air pressure for the most part. The higher pressure effectively dries the paint on the inside of the tip as well as around the needle as the paint is forced through the opening. When using solvent based paints such as Tamiya and Model Master, the solvents in the paint and what is used to thin them are very strong and remove the paint as it passes through the tip. For example, I shoot acrylic primer and Model Air paints between 12 and 15psi. You should not have to thin the paints typically; however, I do thin the balck primer as it seems thick than the other to me. I will thin about 1 drop of thinner for ever 4 to 5 of paint. The more you think the paint, the more you need to adjust the paint. Metal finishes from Vallejo Model Air, I will thin maybe 40%, shoot over a gloss base and the air pressure is about actually 6 to 8 psi and mist the layers on.

I n the end, give a number of products a try and see what you are comfortable with. No matter the product, don't give upif the result is not what you expect the first time you use it. You will have to make adjustments for each and ever type and brand of paint you use.

Good luck~!!!

AK Primer has given me the best results. I also used Tamiya primer before and it was good but prefer AK especially because I have zero ventilation in my model room in the basement. Before when I used Tamiya primer I had to stay out of the room for a good 12 hours. I had a network of fans to circulate air out of my room, through the living room, and up the stairs which was a real PITA...plus I wore a respirator...but back to the topic...I would recommend AK primer for sure