I have been away from modeling for quite a while, what do you think of the following finish system?

mm enamel finish
testors glosscote in can
apply decal using micro sol/set
testors gloss cote in can again
washes
testors dullcote in can
drybrushing
weathering

is testors out of the can suitable or should I airbrush it?

I've been airbrushing Testor"s Dullcoat for years. It works quite well. I think it is by far cheaper to use the bottles over the spray cans, and it gives a finer finish. As far as the Glosscoat, I've sworn by Future Floor Polish for decades. One bottle, airbrushed, will last years and years.

flyers42
if you are satisfied with result - why not?

For a gloss cote, go with Pledge floor polish. I mix it 3:1(polish:water) and apply with a fan brush. It takes me three to four applications for a good finish. Just wait 10 to 15 minutes, between layers and let cure for a few hours.
I airbrush Dullcote, with great success.

"if you are satisfied with result - why not?"

I have not done it yet,lol, just from research, I was going to try this system.

So are you guys saying not to use testors sprayed directly out of the can?

defenitley dilute from the jars and airbrush?

and future floor polish and pledge foor plosish are the same?

what is a fan brush?

what is your thinning ratio for aibrushing dullcote?

Your proposed system is fine. I do basically the same. I will vary between either airbrushing and using a spray can for the dullcoat. It depends on whether or not I want to clean the airbrush. Both work equally as well in my opinion. I thin the dullcoat the same as any other enamel paint; about the consistency of milk when you look at it in the airbrush bottle.

You don't need to thin Dullcote.


Yes, Future is the same.

Testors Gloss Coat and Dull Coat are lacquers and should be thinned with lacquer thinner. You can buy the Testors lacquer thinner in the same sized bottles as the Gloss and Dull Coats come in, but a much less expensive alternative is ordinary hardware store lacquer thinner.

I thin both at about 60:40, paint to thinner, but your thinning ratio should be based on your own experience and the air brushing equipment you're using (i.e. what works for you in the environmental conditions your working in).

Like many others here, I actually use Future Floor Wax as the gloss that I decal over. I airbrush it on, usually neat or slightly thinned. I also overcoat my decals with the same product after they set and dry (usually over night). I airbrush Testors Dull Coat over this.

I do my all of my weathering over flat coats and not gloss, but either way can give good results (each requires a slightly different application of the techniques for washes and color modulation, etc).

Basically your proposed methodology is good, but only your skill will determine the results. For example, if you're accomplished spraying paint from rattle cans, then you should be able to get good results using Testors Dull and Gloss Coats from the can. If you're good with brush painting acrylics, you'll be able to get good results hand brushing the Future Floor Wax on as a gloss coat, etc.

In the end, it's really about what Dmitriy alluded to: If it works for you, it's good. However, you're going to have to use the techniques and materials to actually learn how they work for you. Right now the discussion is entirely theoretical.

What you suggest can work (and does work for others), but only your own experience and skill will determine how well it will work for you. Once you actually start using a technique and material, you can certainly get some good, specific advice here based on exactly what it is you're doing.

Happy modeling!

Is this old school vs new school of doing ?