Hello,
I have the Dragon Early (Kursk) kit and was wondering how I would go about getting that sag on the tracks?
TIA
Brad
Hosted by Darren Baker
Secret to using DS Tracks on a Dragon Tiger I
Brad-M
British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 12:21 PM UTC
AFVFan
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Posted: Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 03:44 PM UTC
I use the gel type of CA to glue the tracks to the top of the sprocket. In doing so, you can set the angle the track leaves the sprocket. Once that is done, I'll set a gentle droop in the track by gluing them to the top of the 2nd outer set of roadwheels. To help while the glue is setting up you can use some stacked pieces of cardboard between the track and the fender to hold things in place.
Thudius
Uusimaa, Finland
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Posted: Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 03:47 PM UTC
Here's a handy tip from a Finnish site, the pictures should be self explanatory so don't worry too much about our crazy moon language. The key is having the track jig parts that come with some of Dragon's Tiger kits. You make up a jig using the parts and a thick piece of styrene, set the track sag and then dip in boiling water, then immediately in cold water. The author had to do this a couple of times.
http://www.pienoismallit.net/kirjoitukset/niksi_613/
Another method I have seen somewhere was running wire behind the guide teeth and bending to shape. If the wire is thin enough, you shouldn't see it.
Kimmo
http://www.pienoismallit.net/kirjoitukset/niksi_613/
Another method I have seen somewhere was running wire behind the guide teeth and bending to shape. If the wire is thin enough, you shouldn't see it.
Kimmo
Biggles2
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Posted: Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 08:25 PM UTC
Yeah, running fine wire or thread through the sprocket holes and behind, or in between, the road wheels to tie down the track, and where it can't be seen. Old school, but still works.
Brad-M
British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 08:33 PM UTC
Thanks Guys!
Brad
Brad
miniflea
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Posted: Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 09:17 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I use the gel type of CA to glue the tracks to the top of the sprocket. In doing so, you can set the angle the track leaves the sprocket. Once that is done, I'll set a gentle droop in the track by gluing them to the top of the 2nd outer set of roadwheels. To help while the glue is setting up you can use some stacked pieces of cardboard between the track and the fender to hold things in place.
This is exactly the technique I used on my tiger. The gel superglue even worked on the already painted surface of the track.
This is a test fit, and before I trimmed off two of the links.
And when I was actually doing the gluing:
I gave this a day or so for the glue to set completely. I did have to go back and increase the sag just a bit near the drive sprocket, but it was a simple matter of getting some more glue underneath the track and positioning the tissue to hold it down the way I wanted.
This is the completed model:
I was very apprehensive about using the DS track, and while I still prefer magic track, I think the results I got here were pretty good. I would not want to use DS on a PzIV or earlier vehicle, but for Tiger and Panther tracks I think they're fine.
Hope that's helpful, and thanks to everyone here who similarly helped me when I asked the same questions earlier this year.
Brad-M
British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 11:11 PM UTC
Excellent, and nice model.
Brad
Brad
Byrden
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Posted: Monday, December 01, 2014 - 12:58 AM UTC
Nobody mentioned this yet.... the idler wheel can be adjusted to set the track tension, before you glue it.
Brad-M
British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Monday, December 01, 2014 - 06:00 AM UTC
That's good to know. That's the rear wheel right...just kidding
Brad
Brad
AnalogKid
Texas, United States
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Posted: Monday, December 29, 2014 - 03:01 AM UTC
A similar method that I have used is also with CA glue, the thicker gel type, and then use CA accelerator. I don't spray the accelerator (as it comes in pump spray bottle) but use an applicator, anything that will hold a small bead of liquid, and let capillary action pull the accelerator into the joint between the track and the wheel. Within about 3 seconds the glue is set-up and the track sticks...no need for a brace of any kind to hold the track in place. Excess accelerator evaporates and does not mar the finish.
Belt_Fed
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Posted: Monday, December 29, 2014 - 04:01 AM UTC
Best solution is to throw them away and get tracks from friulmodel. If that is not an option, you can use regular cement to glue the tracks to the wheels and sprocket to get the look you want. You can also use a jig from hobby trax.com and form them with boiling water. You can also drill holes under the sponsons and insert a stiff wire to hold the tracks down against the wheels
Posted: Monday, December 29, 2014 - 05:29 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Best solution is to throw them away and get tracks from friulmodel. If that is not an option, you can use regular cement to glue the tracks to the wheels and sprocket to get the look you want. You can also use a jig from hobby trax.com and form them with boiling water. You can also drill holes under the sponsons and insert a stiff wire to hold the tracks down against the wheels
Ha! I would gladly take them if you throw them away!