I am starting a build of the TAKOM SKODA 30.5cm. M1916 Siege Howitzer.
Here are Pics. of the Instructions and the 3 Sprue.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Building A SKODA 30.5cm. Siege Howitzer
OldWarloke
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Posted: Sunday, December 07, 2014 - 10:35 PM UTC
OldWarloke
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Posted: Sunday, December 07, 2014 - 10:38 PM UTC
OldWarloke
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Posted: Sunday, December 07, 2014 - 10:42 PM UTC
Now to get busy building.
Donald
Szmann
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Posted: Monday, December 08, 2014 - 12:19 AM UTC
Hi, Donald. Interesting model. I set my eyes on you... target locked!
johhar
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Posted: Monday, December 08, 2014 - 01:45 AM UTC
Surprisingly low parts count. I've been waiting for that kit and if the molding and detail are good, the low parts count adds to the appeal (of course, others feel opposite about a low parts count).
bill_c
Campaigns Administrator
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Posted: Monday, December 08, 2014 - 02:38 AM UTC
WW2 only configuration or also Great War?
Tiger_213
California, United States
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Posted: Monday, December 08, 2014 - 04:04 AM UTC
Quoted Text
WW2 only configuration or also Great War?
The color plate only has a '43 and '42 color scheme, so probably not.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 - 07:23 PM UTC
I've been working on the Gun.
Filled in the seams, & joints on the Breech interior. I'd like to build this with the breech open but I need to find some information on the mechanism. The breech Block barely stays in in the open position.
Below is a pic. of the Barrel Rifling , rather pointy.
I sanded the points down a little, it looks better.
That's all for now.
Donald
Filled in the seams, & joints on the Breech interior. I'd like to build this with the breech open but I need to find some information on the mechanism. The breech Block barely stays in in the open position.
Below is a pic. of the Barrel Rifling , rather pointy.
I sanded the points down a little, it looks better.
That's all for now.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 - 07:10 PM UTC
The Gun Barrel itself is made up of 3 sections, two of them go inside the main section. If the first 2 sections of the barrel aren't even, it won't fit. Of course you could always leave them off as they won't be visible.
The end will go all the way to the breach .
Here shows the barrel
The end will go all the way to the breach .
Here shows the barrel
OldWarloke
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Posted: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 - 07:21 PM UTC
In step 5 of the instruction sheet the numbers for parts C 11 & C 12
are reversed. They are easier to install if you install them before completing step 4
You will have to drill a small hole in the end of part B 8 to install part B25 , there is only a small indentation there.
back to work.
Donald
are reversed. They are easier to install if you install them before completing step 4
You will have to drill a small hole in the end of part B 8 to install part B25 , there is only a small indentation there.
back to work.
Donald
Biggles2
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Posted: Thursday, December 11, 2014 - 08:54 PM UTC
This is around 12" caliber? Are there any ammo rounds included, or ammunition conveyance, or hoist, or trolley included? Any kind of loading apparatus? It looks like the model can only be built in a deployed position, so to have these extras would only make sense, at least for a dio.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, December 11, 2014 - 09:10 PM UTC
Quoted Text
This is around 12" caliber? Are there any ammo rounds included, or ammunition conveyance, or hoist, or trolley included? Any kind of loading apparatus? It looks like the model can only be built in a deployed position, so to have these extras would only make sense, at least for a dio.
See Pic. #7 & #11 you get 3 different Ammo Rounds & a Cart to transport them for loading.
The base of this Gun sets buried in the ground when deployed for firing.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, December 11, 2014 - 09:12 PM UTC
Here is a pic. of the base without the turntable installed.
You would most likely bury it almost to the top edge than place some boards to cover the ground to make it easy to roll the ammo cart for loading the gun.
I replaced the molded on bolt heads with the ones from the Meng Set.
You would most likely bury it almost to the top edge than place some boards to cover the ground to make it easy to roll the ammo cart for loading the gun.
I replaced the molded on bolt heads with the ones from the Meng Set.
Biggles2
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Posted: Thursday, December 11, 2014 - 11:05 PM UTC
Looks like an enjoyable week-end build.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Saturday, December 13, 2014 - 09:02 PM UTC
I have the sub assemblies finished.
I added a handle to the traverse wheel on the carriage side, the one there was just a little stub.
Here below are the sub assemblies,
Now it's off to the paint shop.
Donald
I added a handle to the traverse wheel on the carriage side, the one there was just a little stub.
Here below are the sub assemblies,
Now it's off to the paint shop.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Tuesday, December 16, 2014 - 08:36 PM UTC
Finished
OldWarloke
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Posted: Tuesday, December 16, 2014 - 08:41 PM UTC
OldWarloke
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Posted: Tuesday, December 16, 2014 - 08:46 PM UTC
Finished.
Donald
Biggles2
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Posted: Tuesday, December 16, 2014 - 08:46 PM UTC
When the loading tray is inclined, what keeps the round from sliding off the rear end, as in photo 25? How were rounds transferred from the trolley to the loading tray - manually? Or with ram-rods? Just trying to imagine some sort of scenario during the siege of Sevestapole.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Tuesday, December 16, 2014 - 09:11 PM UTC
Quoted Text
When the loading tray is inclined, what keeps the round from sliding off the rear end, as in photo 25? How were rounds transferred from the trolley to the loading tray - manually? Or with ram-rods? Just trying to imagine some sort of scenario during the siege of Sevestapole.
It looks like there are small rollers on the loading tray.
I just placed a round there for looks.
Logically you would have the gun in the loading position with the breech open, bring up a round on the cart and then push the round off the cart across the loading tray and into the open breach.
The rounds look like they would be too heavy to man handle.
I think that they would use some kind of man powered ram to move the round.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Tuesday, December 16, 2014 - 09:21 PM UTC
I think that this kit would look great in a WW 1 Diorama.
You could build an emplacement with the gun base buried almost up to the top of the base box, just leaving room for a layer of boards so you don't get stuck in the mud. Cast some additional rounds, and have the gun being loaded while additional rounds are brought up and readied for firing.
The rope on the breech block is the firing lanyard , just pull and BOOM.
Donald
You could build an emplacement with the gun base buried almost up to the top of the base box, just leaving room for a layer of boards so you don't get stuck in the mud. Cast some additional rounds, and have the gun being loaded while additional rounds are brought up and readied for firing.
The rope on the breech block is the firing lanyard , just pull and BOOM.
Donald
Szmann
Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Tuesday, December 16, 2014 - 09:42 PM UTC
Boom! indeed. Nice one, Donald. Thank you for sharing. Warm Regards.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Sunday, August 09, 2015 - 11:23 PM UTC
Link is Gone
Biggles2
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Posted: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 - 08:14 PM UTC
I just finished this one myself. An incredibly short build time of less than 4 days from box to weathering - of course there are only 3 sprues, and the base takes up most of one of them. While the finished product looks impressive there are build issues. The recuperator cylinders (in 2 halves) have extremely bad fit with joint gaps to fill; the gun barrel housing (?) also has a joint that needs filling; the rifling (as noted) only extends about 1/2 inch, and there is no twist - just straight grooves; a series of bolt heads around that gun barrel housing (?) on the front edge of it that is omitted; and, maybe worst, is the wrong shape of the sliding breech block. The kit has the left end extending slightly from the breech (correct), but with a convex curve to it (incorrect). Photo reference show it as usual sliding blocks with a concave surface so that when open, allows passage of the ammunition into the chamber. Not too difficult fix by cutting, sawing, filing and sanding, and a scrap of plastic sheet to make a new end for the block. I also replaced all those fiddly bolt heads with model RR ones from Tichy. If not for the issues, it's like a Tamiya kit - few parts, but good detail.